timing chain fix
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 418
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From: South Central PA
You'll need a puller to remove the vibration dampner from the crankshaft but other than that you won't need anything special to do the job. You can purchase one from your parts store for about $10, or some even rent you the tools to do the job pretty reasonably. The puller would be a cheap investment to have around, I use mine for everything from lawnmowers to steering wheels!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 121
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From: North Central Montana
It really is easy as Lastchance stated. You may however end up having to remove the radiator in order to get the puller in there to pull. That isn't a big deal but just adds to the time to accomplish the job.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 121
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From: North Central Montana
Pull the balancer from the middle piece, not around the edges. It is made of two parts, the center hub section and the outer section which is held on by rubber between the two. If you pull on the outside and it is very tight, it is possible you will pull the outer ring right off of the hub.
I'm not sure of the reason you are changing the chain. I assume just because of age and not because it has sheared off some teeth or something. If everything is still in time, when you get the cover off, rotate the engine to make the timing marks line up on the sprockets. One sprocket has two dots on it, the other has one, those need to be pointing at each other. That way you can just slap the new ones on with the dots lined up and not even have to find TDC which of course you will be at if the marks are lined up. If the chain has slipped you will need to find TDC the old fashioned way.
Two bolts on the oil pan hold the front cover as well so don't forget to remove those. Use silicon in the corner where the block, pan and cover meet. It's not a bad idea to use a little silicon all around the new gaskets as well.
Thats all I can think of at the moment. Hope it helps.
I'm not sure of the reason you are changing the chain. I assume just because of age and not because it has sheared off some teeth or something. If everything is still in time, when you get the cover off, rotate the engine to make the timing marks line up on the sprockets. One sprocket has two dots on it, the other has one, those need to be pointing at each other. That way you can just slap the new ones on with the dots lined up and not even have to find TDC which of course you will be at if the marks are lined up. If the chain has slipped you will need to find TDC the old fashioned way.
Two bolts on the oil pan hold the front cover as well so don't forget to remove those. Use silicon in the corner where the block, pan and cover meet. It's not a bad idea to use a little silicon all around the new gaskets as well.
Thats all I can think of at the moment. Hope it helps.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 1
From: lino lakes, mn
by the manual for your truck or go to the library and check one out they usually have a step by step and pictures do not go at it blind the manual will be the best 25.00 you can spend for your truck!
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 690
Likes: 0
From: Sweden
I had to do it on my 87 302 E150 van, it's tough. There's a LOT of stuff that has to be removed.
First, you can check for timing chain slack. Take off the belt, probably remove the fan. Put a big socket on the bolt in the middle of the harmonic damper. Take off the distributor cap. Rock the crankshaft back and forth by turning that socket on the damper (you'll want a long handle). Since the distributor rotor is on the cam shaft on the other end of the chain, you will be able to observe any slack between them at the rotor as you rock the crank back and forth.
The water pump bolts may be corroded and there is a chance they may break off in the engine (one did on mine). So get new bolts while you're at it. Recommend putting in a new water pump & new radiator hoses at the same time.
Be sure- really sure- you align the two sprockets correctly before you reassemble it.
First, you can check for timing chain slack. Take off the belt, probably remove the fan. Put a big socket on the bolt in the middle of the harmonic damper. Take off the distributor cap. Rock the crankshaft back and forth by turning that socket on the damper (you'll want a long handle). Since the distributor rotor is on the cam shaft on the other end of the chain, you will be able to observe any slack between them at the rotor as you rock the crank back and forth.
The water pump bolts may be corroded and there is a chance they may break off in the engine (one did on mine). So get new bolts while you're at it. Recommend putting in a new water pump & new radiator hoses at the same time.
Be sure- really sure- you align the two sprockets correctly before you reassemble it.
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