timing chain
New User
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Keenth City Florida
Yes. I got screwed by one yesterday to the tune of $5500.00. Thanks Ford. Next truck after I take my beating from this POS Ford is going to be a Chevy or Toyota. I had this truck for 6 days, put 50 miles on it. The chain went and it ruined the engine. Gave ZERO warning.
New User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5
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From: Keenth City Florida
The best you can do is spend the $1500.00 to have the chains...yes, chains(there are three of these dreded things)changed. The engine has to be pulled. Ford dropped the ball big time. I paid $5100.00 for my 2002 Explorer this past Sunday. Yesterday my wife was driving it to work and it quit. No warning, no noise prior. No nothing. Four cylinders were running at 50 pounds, one at zero. Damaged the pistons. The best thing to do is sell it before the problem comes. I am going to go ahead and buy another engine but when the warranty gets close to expiring, It is for sale...
New User
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Keenth City Florida
Not sure but I am assuming that the only fix would involve pulling engine. Not clear on this though. I am going to talk to the guy that is ordering my engine Monday and find out if there is possibly another type of an engine out there that doesn't have the plastic tensioner in it. A dervice person told me that as long as you keep the oil changed and level up that there shouldn't be any trouble. I just find it hard to take in when I talked to another guy that had this happen when he turned only 35,000 miles on the truck which he bought new. I am still collecting info on this.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 249
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From: AZ
The 2002 and up 4wd model Explorer's are supposed to come with only 1 timing chain up front, the 2wd used the old type 3 chains; then in 2004 and up all used the updated engine.
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With the 3 chain motor, you have to pull the engine, or so I've heard.
Chain 1: crank to a blank shaft where the original cam was for the OHV engine.
Chain 2: Off that shaft to the driver side cam.
Chain 3: Of that shaft at the rear of the engine for the passenger side cam.
If you had it down for the guides and tensioners, you might as well replace the chains.
My '98 has 92,000. Maybe time to sell......
Chain 1: crank to a blank shaft where the original cam was for the OHV engine.
Chain 2: Off that shaft to the driver side cam.
Chain 3: Of that shaft at the rear of the engine for the passenger side cam.
If you had it down for the guides and tensioners, you might as well replace the chains.
My '98 has 92,000. Maybe time to sell......
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If it has two chains up front, with one going to the driver side, then there has to be the third chain in back.
Special tools? Like a gear puller? Do it right or have it done. You're wasting your time to just replace the soft parts as the major part of this job is the labor. Replace EVERYTHING once it's apart.
What's the cost of the tools or even paying for the job compared to the cost of replacing the pistons and everything that goes with that?
Special tools? Like a gear puller? Do it right or have it done. You're wasting your time to just replace the soft parts as the major part of this job is the labor. Replace EVERYTHING once it's apart.
What's the cost of the tools or even paying for the job compared to the cost of replacing the pistons and everything that goes with that?
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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well after reading all of the post about this problem and the TSB's I have an extended warranty for another 5000 miles with 100 deductable so im going to try and get it fix for 100 bucks
thank wayne
thank wayne
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 616
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From: Missouri - Lake of the Oz
The "push" [rod] is on...
This thread only serves to reinforce my conviction that I will stay with the I-6 300s, Windsors, and 385 series engines. Perhaps an enterprising gearhead/T-shirtmaker could develop and market a product with a suitable picture and slogan along the line of: "If the Lord meant for camshafts to be overhead He would not have given us pushrods". 
dn.
dn.
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