Heres my issue

Couple of weeks ago my turnsignals went out, but brake lights and hazards worked fine. checked fuses and bulbs, all good to go.

This isn't the first time they have gone out. I have replaced the turnsignal switch before. ( what a pain ) Which solved the problem.

So I called my LFD and ordered another switch. Replaced the switch the other day and I still have no turnsignals.


Please help cause the ppl around here don't understand what hand and arm signals are, and the driving test is in a parking lot!!!! whatever.. sorry had to blow off steam about that.


Thank for any help.

Tailgater_73F100

 

there are two flasher relays under the dash on the left side, have you replaced both of those??? if the brake lights work it not in the wiring, flasher relays or fuse, thats all i can think of........

 

I replaced the relays as well. Oh and when I plug my horn back in it will not stop sounding.


Thanks

Tailgater_73F100
Savannah, GA

 

I have the same exact problem. If anyone can explain why it would be great. Same symptoms, same problem, same method of fixing with the exact same results.
Glad to hear someone else has the same prob.

Thanks

 

get a chiltons manual and start tracing and testing wires, there is definitly a short somewhere....im thinking somewhere around the switch since you replaced it once with good results, maybe a connection broke when you changed it the second time..........

 

My trun signals wouldn't work but brake lights did, found if I press forward on the hazard button then it would.


john

 

This maybe a shot in the dark, but I'll throw it out for consideration. Anytime I have had an electrical problem that has not been a fuse or bulb, it is usualy a bad ground.
Case in point: I have a 73 F 100 that I just installed cruise control on. The cruise worked intermitantly, and sometimes the horn worked whether I pushed the button or not. After many days of pulling my hair out, I finnaly borrowed a voltmeter from a friend of mine and started testing things. The problem was a bad ground.
Your electrical stuff on your collum such as your horn and turn signals are grounded by your collum being bolted to the gear box which is in turn mounted to your frame.
Try this: Take a short piece of wire ( maybe 3 or 4 inches) put a ring connector on both ends. Pull one of the bolts out that connect the collum to the gear box. Put the bolt through the ring connector on one end. Put it through the collum and gear box. Put the other ring connector on the other side. Then put your lock washer and nut back on.
What you will be doing is jumping accross the rag joint to insure a good ground.
I don't know if this will fix every problem, but it fixed mine, and it's cheap and easy.
Tailgater, double check to make sure that you didn't hook up something wrong, or accidently break a wire.
I hope I helped.
Mike

 

Well ya'll aint gonna belive this @#%(....

The other day one of my employee's recieved a 85 F150 from his grandfather as a gift. So we picked it up and took it back to the shop and started lookin over the freebie. While lookin in the glove box I found a 522 relay for the flashers new in box form around the 80's w/ two side maker bulbs in it aswell. I Asked if I might borrow it for S and G's to see if my flashers would work. ( not real sure why but something made me ask ) And I'll be a SOB if it worked like a charm.

Well all I can say is I know I have a extra trun signal switch now.

And that a new relay can be bad right out the box. So If ya got a flasher issue try more then just one relay.

Thanks again for all your help

Tailgater_73F100
Savannah, GA.

 

A good way to test a relay when you suspect it may be the issue is to first listen for the "click." Get a 9V battery and apply them as the diagram shows on the relay. If there is no diagram, test the socket first to determine which blade is ground. There will be at least 3 other pins. One gets line voltage when the control is turned on so put on the turn signal and figure out which one gets voltage. If none do, the problem is before the relay. Now figure out which one supplies the voltage. It should be hot (+~12V) all the time. The remaining blade is the feed from the relay to the device or light.

Now, on the corresponding blades (be careful here since you will be looking at the relay backwards, so to speak) which can only fit the relay one way, apply the 9V battery + to the signal lead from the control on the relay and apply the 9V - to the ground. You should hear a clicking sound from the relay if it is functioning at all.

Now for the final test. Put the multimeter in continuity mode. This is the mode that sounds a beep when the meter leads are connected. Apply the 9V signal as before (to a relay that passes the click test) and leave it connected. Now check the other two leads for continuity (meaning that the relay connects the device to line voltage in response to an appropriate input signal.) If you get a beep, the relay is good. If not, I'll see you at the parts store. Have fun!

 

I am a newbie and have the same problem, but I can't find the turn signal relay. Where is it?

I can plainly see the foour-way flasher relay?

 

I know that mine was hanging in the same area as the four-ways. Right around the fuse block and parking brake release area stuffed up out of the way.

Tailgater_73F100
Savannah, GA