I need some advice on the steering wheel lock on a 46 Ford 1/2 ton, please

 

Ike, what exactly do you want to know. I just went through this on a '40. Mine was completely rebuilt using the original parts - even the switch, which had to have the contacts freshened. It's easy to do it yourself, I did it all in my shop for zero dollars and it looks and works great. Steve

 

THANKS FOR RESPONDING.
I have started to restore this one and found the key is broken off and the wheel is locked. I need to know how to remove the key cylinder to get a new key. I don't know how to take the assembly apart.

 

Maybe a locksmith could be a help. I have personally had two trucks where the key had either been lost, or someone had tried to steal it. They had beat the hell out of the key mechanism to unjamb the steering column without success.
I need a new mechanism also, because the key is so worn it shouldn't be used, and couldn't be accurately duplicated.

 

I don't think the procedure is too hard if I could just find out to remove the lock as a unit. I sure would be grateful if someone could just explain the process to me.

Thanks,
IKE

 

Steve --
Would you please tell me how to remove the lock assembly?

 

Ike, Sorry I did not respond right away to your specific problem. I am away from my notes until 1-22-05. I had the whole unit out of the vehicle when I rebuilt it so it was pretty easy to see the parts. Don't panic, I will get back to you. Steve

 

To remove the lock cyliner, look on the back of the column support, right behind the lock, there will be a small plug. You have to drill that plug out, it keeps the cylinder locked in and from rotating. If you dont care about the lock, you can just drill it to add something to use to twist it out. The cylinder may have some rust holding it in, so you may need to soak with WD-40 or such to help it out. After you have cylinder out you can reach in with something like a screwdriver and push up on the pin that locks the column.

 

Thank You! I will start on this tomorrow!!!! Thank you for your help!

 

Ike, 46 has you on track. If you are doing the proceedure with the casting in the truck, you have your work cut out for you but I understand if you dont want to get too involved. When the plug (pin) was put in by Ford, it was peened in so as to not fall out. It really is not a press fit but over time it gets stuck in there pretty good. I was able to drill mine out carefully after I removed the peened metal from around the top of the pin first. By the time I had graduated from a pilot drill to a 3/16" drill, the pin spun free and came out easily. Maybe I got lucky. After the necessary refurbishment of parts, I drilled the pin bore 13/64" and ran a 1/4"X20 bottom tap in there to accomodate a hex, set screw. This way you don't have to worry about getting a pin to stay in there and you can easily remove the set screw to work on it again in the future when needed. A little lock-tite will guarantee that it does not vibrate out. If you are feeling ambitious, the casting will come out in about an hour or less allowing you to rebuild the whole unit on the bench. It necessitates removing the steering wheel, the two 5/16 cap screws that hold the casting to the dash, the bolt that holds the casting to the column and the clamp on the steering box. Don't forget to disconnect the horn wire so it can slide up through the column. If you go this route, you will have access to the bushings and the steering lock lever. These get gummed up over the years and a good cleaning and lubricating will make it all work very smoothly. When you really git ambitious and get to rebuilding the steering gears we will talk some more. Hope this gets you going. Steve

 

To -

46 and Steve, thanks a million for taking the time and effort to help me out!!!
I am truly grateful for you help.

IKE

 

When I removed the ignition/steering lock from a 1/2T 1946 PU it was by drilling the plain head screw that happened when Ford made the lock with a special bolt that sheared-off after being tightened during assembly. This was finished-off smooth and causes a lot of head-scratching when trying to figure how the screw got there in the first place. If the smooth head is drilled in the center and an easy-out is used to back-out the screw (really a domed bolt) then the assembly should be easy to remove from that point.

 

of course, you could also have your local locksmith come over and make a key to fit the lock and avoid all the drilling and possible ruining of the lock.