Rear window removal- fix leak
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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Rear window removal- fix leak
I have a small leak from the rear window. Where do they usually leak from?? Between the body and the trim or the trim and the window itself??
How do I remove the rear window??
How do I remove the rear window??
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 156
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I had leaks because of cracked trim and the lack of enough butyl sealant. So, check both. But usually it is because of the lack of enough sealant. I bought 3/8" butyl at Napa, which was PLENTY thick.
Remove the 12 9mm bolts on the inside of the truck. Now you need to cut through the old sealant, from the inside. Choose your weapon, I used a utility knife and an old butcher knife I ruined for some other non-cooking reason years ago. I don't recall now what it was I needed it for, my wife knows I bet.
Anyhoo, at this point would be a good time to mention that you need somebody or something in the bed of truck to catch the window. Push out carefully, taking time to go back and cut the sealant you missed when you thought you cut through it all. Yeah I missed some my first pass.
Clean it up, put on new sealant, and press in place. Carefully tighten those 12 bolts, and I mean careful. I have talked to a couple people that said they have snapped the bolts.
Probably not the best way, but I just used some epoxy on the inside for the cracks in plastic I saw.
No leaks, yet.
Remove the 12 9mm bolts on the inside of the truck. Now you need to cut through the old sealant, from the inside. Choose your weapon, I used a utility knife and an old butcher knife I ruined for some other non-cooking reason years ago. I don't recall now what it was I needed it for, my wife knows I bet.
Anyhoo, at this point would be a good time to mention that you need somebody or something in the bed of truck to catch the window. Push out carefully, taking time to go back and cut the sealant you missed when you thought you cut through it all. Yeah I missed some my first pass.
Clean it up, put on new sealant, and press in place. Carefully tighten those 12 bolts, and I mean careful. I have talked to a couple people that said they have snapped the bolts.
Probably not the best way, but I just used some epoxy on the inside for the cracks in plastic I saw.
No leaks, yet.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 96
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From: Orlando, FL
DIY Weekend Mechanic just did a really good show involving removing the rear window and replacing it with a power sliding rear window. Something I am thinking of doing myself someday, actually. Anyways, if you go to the DIY website www.DIYnet.com I believe you can search around and fins previous shows (like this one) and it will still have the step-by-step for you. I recorded it myself b/c my rear window leaks due to cracks in the plastic window frame. There is a TSB on it, but not something Ford will replace at no cost. I too have the black window poly from home depot (or maybe it's for something else, not sure) on my window but the leaks just find ways around it. It doesn't get my seats wet or anything, so I don't care right now. I have bigger problems anyways right now, like a truck that won't start and a shifter that seems to have no gears.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 11,496
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From: Kansas
Anything you use to fix the cracks will be temporary as far a fix. Eventually, it will start leaking again. The cracks are in the frame and as was mentioned above, carefully torque the window in during installation.
To remove the window, you have to strip the upper part of the interior. Not too hard and the whole process can be done in two hours if the sealant is soft.
To remove the window, you have to strip the upper part of the interior. Not too hard and the whole process can be done in two hours if the sealant is soft.
New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I had my 98 F250-LD in for hail repair and repaint. They had to cut off roof on supercab and take out the rear window and front windshield.
The body shop replaced the windshield but left the original rear slider. After about a month and four washings, I found the leaks got worse, and took a bright light to examine window.
The frame was cracked and leaking so I took it back and a new glass was installed.
The bodyshop manager noted the replacement from Ford does NOT have the same plastic frame around the glass panels.
He said the originals are a TSB and were a factory defect.
The cost is about $200 and you keep the original grey/black large frame to the body.
If you have the money I would order the new glass and be sure the leaks will not come back.
The body shop replaced the windshield but left the original rear slider. After about a month and four washings, I found the leaks got worse, and took a bright light to examine window.
The frame was cracked and leaking so I took it back and a new glass was installed.
The bodyshop manager noted the replacement from Ford does NOT have the same plastic frame around the glass panels.
He said the originals are a TSB and were a factory defect.
The cost is about $200 and you keep the original grey/black large frame to the body.
If you have the money I would order the new glass and be sure the leaks will not come back.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
be sure to check the seal on the high-mount stop lamp. mine was leaky and I thought it was the window, but after furthur investigation it was the light housing. $2 fix rather than much more.
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Senior User
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What interior panels do I need to remove?? I imagine the rear side panels and the seat back (s-cab) but does the headliner need to come down??
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 80
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From: San Diego
no...the cover comes off from the outside...like if you were standing in the bed facing the front of the truck. I just used some RTV to seal mine. It may be a little more difficult to change a bulb when it burns out, but no leak.
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