Hey guys...new to site...great forum!
Truck will not go in gear but when i put it in 4low it tries to go.Ran diagnostics and no codes came up.Am i looking at a transfer case problem?
Thanks,Gary

 

need help please!!!!!! Anyone?

 

Sorry, I won't be of much help. You don't say whether you got an AT or 5sp. For some reason I'm assuming it's an AT. I take it you've done the simple things like check fluid level?
what do you mean it tries to go in 4lo? Motor revs but no go? Is it straining?
If you go from D to R is there any motion at all? If so you could have locked brakes, uh, the ASB is locking them. Those are my wild *** guesses.

 

I'm sure the brakes aren't locked up.when you put it in d or r the rpm's wrap out and it gos no where and it was making a noise like something was spinning and sorta grinding but when you put it in 4 low you can hear it engage and it will creep in d or r but still the rpm's wrap out.checked fluid and it was full but a little burnt smelling and still had red color to it.Its an AT

 

Unless someone else comes up with something, tranny sounds blown to me.
Not very familar with 96's. Those have motor driven shifter in the transfer case? Push button or manual lever? I hear the motors get sticky and won't operate if not used once a month. If you luck out transfer case could be stuck in neutral, maybe. there generally isn't anything in them to blow out like a tranny does. That's all I got. Good luck

 

Thanks shaggymane.I'm looking into those motors now.I thought if it was the tranny it would give me some codes but i guess maybe not.Gonna put it in the garage tomorrow and start taking stuff apart.Thanks again

 

I just discovered that the auto xray ezlink scanner that i got from checker does NOT scan transmission codes,so....i guess i'm back to the drawing board.Will have to tow it in to get the codes pulled i guess.I will post after i get this done!
Thanks,Gary

 

Well....i didnt get the codes read but i pulled the tranny and the torque converter seems to be busted up inside...there's metal rattling around.
The shaft in the tranny seems to turn fine and it seems to go through the gears right including locking in park.there was some metal in the pan.Is there any thing obvious to look for to insure the tranny is ok and i would just need a new converter?
Thanks,Gary

 

Elkosnowcat,
If you have a busted torque converter and metal shavings in the pan you don't have much choice at this point. The fluid circulates between the torque converter and the rest of the tranny. Any metal shavings that would cut an O-ring seal around a piston would kill it's ability to shift well if at all. And then there's the valve body. it don't like debris of anykind including red shop rag fuzz.
You could go down to the tranny section here and get a second opinion but I'm sure you're looking at a rebuild. You ever seen a schematic on a OD/4spd AT? Mind boggling compared to a C-6. Ok, now we're into area I know very little about. I'm told by a tranny guy that there's lots of electronics and planetary gears in OD trannies that need to be tested. That's what makes them expensive to rebuild.
Example- to rebuild my C-6 he did it for $250. Thought a rebuild for an 89 probe AOD would be about 400- 450. Wishfull thinking. $1000 give or take some but that's about the value of that car.

What the heck. Pull it out and pull it apart for the experience to see what's in it and what kind of damage was done. I'd also keep track of exactly how it came apart. You might wanna slap it back together before you take it in. Don't think those guys like em coming in in pieces.
I'd definitely pull it out myself But do NOT forget to clean the cooler in the radiator.

Ok, just reread your last post. You already got it pulled. How bad was it?

 

It wasn't too bad to pull but the metal in the pan was comparable to any fluid change i have done before.(i should have clarified that better)just some fines....no big shavings or chunks at all.The fluid was a little burnt but still had good color to it.Better than some fluid i have changed.

 

By the way, welcome to the forums.
Have you found your way to the *Clutch,Transmission, Differential, Axle and Transfer Case* section yet? Scroll on down past the model types, past the engines section to misc.
You could post there and see what beemer nut or one of the other guru's has to say.
I also would suppose you can realize what the options are.
Yours a 4x4? How many miles? Time for a rebuild anyway since it's out?
You're in NV. Got a heated garage? A parts cleaner? You could pull it apart, clean it, see how much wear the bushings have, get a rebuild kit, assume the electronics are good and slap some new clutches in.

Me? I wouldn't want to gamble on just putting a new converter in. But hey, if you got nothing better to do and love turning wrenches, go for it.

I've done a master rebuild on a C-6 with a little help from a rebuild shop (I let them press the new bushings in) and didn't have to good o luck. Bought the rebuild kit from O really's. With in a couple weeks, on a hard pull in reverse, it folded the clutch material up like an accordian. They warrantied the kit and a case of ATF but that's a lotta dam work. Must have pulled that tranny out 3 or 4 times during that ordeal. Got pretty good at yanking them in and out.
By now, I'm just talking here ok? I've got a tenat/friend I've helped alot, so I asked him to help me put it back in. He thought 104 temp at 1PM was too hot so he went in for a nap. He came back out at 6PM ready to help. Too late it's already back in. Poor me.

Anyway my deal started when the intermediate band went out. And it's kind of a case of if i knew then what i knew after it was all over, I'd have done it differently. It was an 82 F-250 4x4 with 140K on it. With that many miles I'm thinking it's due for a rebuild anyway. When I went to replace the 6 clutches in the forward drive hub they didn't match the four that came in the rebuild kit. Drove me nuts cause I knew i counted em right. Stumped the guy at the rebuild shop for a while too.

Shortening the story. Turns out someone had done some trick work on it. They took a beveled ring, same as is used in the rear of the hub/drum, flipped it over and used it at the front of the clutch hub/drum instead of the normal unbeveled ring. More clutches and disks can go in that way.

If I could redo that episode, I'd have just cleaned it of all the debris, put a new IM band in and slapped it back in. Here's the kicker. Had a brand new IM band sitting on a shelf.

sometimes I think I talk too much.

Anyway, let us know the outcome.