Turbo help/ advice needed!
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Elder User
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When you say "rebuild it" are you talking about the whole turbo. or just the wheel. how hard is it to do the berings at the same time as i replace the wheel? I would thing that you could get at them pretty easily when the wheel is off. thanks J
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
You can not get to the center section at all with just the intake housing removed. This is a pretty good rebuild article at click here
I don't see any galling in the inlet housing wall, which means impact damage. I would replace the wheel immediately, and have the rotating assembly rebalanced, and since you don't have a charge air cooler to keep the broken pieces out of the engine, you might consider having a compression test done to make sure a piston wasn't damaged.
I don't see any galling in the inlet housing wall, which means impact damage. I would replace the wheel immediately, and have the rotating assembly rebalanced, and since you don't have a charge air cooler to keep the broken pieces out of the engine, you might consider having a compression test done to make sure a piston wasn't damaged.
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Thanks cookie. Would is still be getting the fuel mileage "which is good 18-20" if my engine has sustained sever damage? if a piston was damaged what could I do about it? rebuild, or can I just keep driving it till it gose compleatly then rebuild? thanks again J
Ps what is galling?
Ps what is galling?
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
No it would not. I think we can assume the engine is ok. Just slap a new wheel in it and call it good.
Galling would be evidence of rubbing or chaffing.....it does not look like the intake wheel has made contact with the housing, which would suggest a failure of the turbo bearings. It looks more like something made it past the filter and hit the wheel, and given the lack of damage anywhere else, whatever it was was probably obliterated by the wheel.
I assume form the filth in the picture that you have not re-routed your crank case vent. May I suggest that you do so now.
This is just a theory, but I think you may have had a carbon build up, or at least some "cruddy oil" at the point the CCV enters the intake, and that may be what broke loose and hit the wheel.
Galling would be evidence of rubbing or chaffing.....it does not look like the intake wheel has made contact with the housing, which would suggest a failure of the turbo bearings. It looks more like something made it past the filter and hit the wheel, and given the lack of damage anywhere else, whatever it was was probably obliterated by the wheel.
I assume form the filth in the picture that you have not re-routed your crank case vent. May I suggest that you do so now.
This is just a theory, but I think you may have had a carbon build up, or at least some "cruddy oil" at the point the CCV enters the intake, and that may be what broke loose and hit the wheel.
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Elder User
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Thanks much cookie!That dose help looses the worry I have built up in my gut that My engine is scewed up. at lest some. on the turbo wheel, should I just head down to the internatinal shop , or would i be better seved whint a swisher or wicked wheel? thaks J
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From: Arizona
The reason that I said to rebuild it is because the turbos that we have fixed (about 20) that were in the condition of yours had some sort of scoring on the bearing ID because of the assembly being out of balance. If it were mine I would have it checked out and rebalanced as cookie said.
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thanks CLK
to rebalace., do I take the part out and to the shop or take the truck to the shop and have them pull the wheel and berring (and charge me labor) ? any thing els I should be on the look out for with a turbo that looks like this one
to rebalace., do I take the part out and to the shop or take the truck to the shop and have them pull the wheel and berring (and charge me labor) ? any thing els I should be on the look out for with a turbo that looks like this one
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Senior User
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From: Arizona
If you have never disassembled a turbo before I would take the whole turbo to a shop to do it, they also might have a wheel in stock that will work for you. It can take a couple of days to get this done (sometimes they will have a rebuilt one on the shelf that will fit your application and you can swap that one in if you are in a hurry). Just make sure there isn't any scoring inside of the housing, but if you take it in for balancing they will let you know if they find anything.
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