Yo Kevin...we've all been there and will likely be there again. It is the human element to have a brain fade moment from time to time and what's important is not that it happens but how you handle it when it does happen. Sounds like you took care of it jam up. Personaly I haven't had much luck with easy outs and have had better luck at drilling the offending bolt out and chasing the threads. For those times that MAY occur when you also drill off center and really mess up the threads I find that a heli-coil or one of the other thread repair kits can be a real sanity saver!

Keep on truckin!

Leaks

 

Well Kevin, you have a lot of information to pick and choose from (or ignore ). Bet you are working on your truck instead of goofing off on the computer like some of us.

 

Nixer, Nixer, Nixer, what are we going to do with you man. All the respect just went in the toilet. I hope you learned about dielectric reaction in your welding classes. Go to the water heater tank and look at the joints where the copper tubes meet the galvanized pipe from the tanks. These are called "Dielectric joints" . I must go with AX in total on this one pal. When you get to Denver I owe you 10 lashes dude.
Anyway the goo on all dissimilar metals per FAA,Mil-A-45208A,NASA,USNSS,and the Big Three, plus Cat,Deere,Allison Trans,Borg,and a host of others that I catered to in regard to Fasteners.

 

el cabron thats alight but i can attest to some other things that ive had from my past experience, but usually i dont even bother with the anti sieze but thats usually what i do when i use it anything that corrodes easily i put it on.


p.s. roof is almost installed too cold right now to finish.
its beginning to look like a truck cab again

 

I just hate those "one way" nuts!! Many of the parts I have bought have come with them and there are some in my bolt kit. I don't know what you call them exactly, but I am talking about the ones with the nylon insert to keep them from backing off. I learned the hard way--when mocking up, go ONLY finger tight if you want any chance of taking them off. I ended up having to cut some of them off with a cutting wheel. Pretty expensive lesson when they are polished stainless buttonheads. Isn't this severe overkill? Can't I accomplish the same thing with locktight? Using these on my final assembly gives me the shudders. What if I want to modify?

Also, a bit of advice to you guys just getting started on disassembly. Bag and mark every bolt and nut( or at least a sample) you take off. Do it religiously. Apparently, Ole Henry was a big believer in what I call "cage nuts" Some of you call them "captive nuts" They are the ones where there is an attachment scheme that holds the nut "fairly close" to the hole but loose. When you put a bolt into the hole you have to move it around to find the nut. I am here to tell you that several coats of primer, color and clear coat will thoroughly plug up the threads to the point that they have to be chased. If you don't know the thread count you are in deep trouble. I cannot tell you how many trips to the hardware store I made to figure out the threads. On the tail light bracket I finally just drilled out the cage nuts and used a 3" thru bolt. On the gas tank I scarfed a bolt off of a junker and bought a thread chaser. Doing it right on disassembly would have saved me HOURS.

Tim

Tim

 

Thanks for the great advice guys. I'm trying to go by the book on these things but as AXRacer pointed out, I used silicone gasket maker instead of a fiber gasket so I should have taken that into account. Next time I'll pay closer attention to my torque wrench. I thought one full turn of the handle added 10 lbs, not 20. Lesson learned! Dad came over with a couple different easy outs on Saturday and we got the other bolt out in 15 minutes. It helped that the threads were clean. It would have been a different story if it was rusted.

I thought I read somewhere that a pretty good indication of proper torque is to compress the lock washer completely and give it another 1/2 turn or something like that. I'll need to use that approach when I put my driveshaft on. I won't be able to get a socket on the rear u-joint clamp of the rear axle pinion.


You should have tried to get the aluminum distributor out of my steel block. Broke the housing trying to get that sucker out.

Jet Jock

I hope to make Nationals. I may end up staying at the Motel 6 again, though. Sounds like the hotels most FTE'ers are staying in are booked.



Kevin Kessler
1953 Ford F-100