When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was driving to a friends house this morning, and I noticed the brake light flicker on. Didn't think much of it. Moments later it came on solid. I stepped on the brakes, and they were hard.... as if the power booster were not connected. I pumped 2 or 3 times and I *thought* that the pedal went to the floor, but not sure (was in heavy traffic... so many things going on). When I stopped, the light had gone out and never came back on. I managed to drive slowly back home. Brakes were between medium hard and normal on entire trip home. Emergency brake works fine. Quick look at front brakes look good. Master cylinder full (in fact fluid came out when I opened top ???). Power booster was replaced about one year ago.
It doesn't seem like the light would come on for a bad power booster (it didn't when it went bad last time). But is the light in any way connected to the vacuum pump? Is there a low vac sensor? If not then it seems to me that a bad vac pump would not trigger the light either. Just thinking/typing out loud.
It sounds to me like you have got an air bubble trapped in the brake pressure differential block down on the frame I would suggest bleeding them also what color is you fluid??
I just checked all the vacuum lines and the pump pressure. I get about 7 inches of vacuum at idle. Needle steady. When I rev to about 1500-2000 RPM, it will climb as far as 10 inches. Don't know what it's supposed to be at.
Haven't checked the differential valve yet. The system hasn't been opened as long as I've had it (almost 2 years) so it seems odd to me that air would develop in the system. Haven't look at the fluid color yet either.
Dissconnect the vac hose from the brake booster and put your vac guage in it.You should have 21 inches hg of vac while idleing for 30 secs.Yes low vac will turn on the brakelight.
Possibly an intermittent problem? At first I disconnected the vac line that goes into this round plastic ball-like object and put my guage on the line, and got 7" of vac. Reving the engine only gave me 10" at the most. I then re-connected there and tapped off another item (I think the temperature control door line) and got the same exact thing. Then I connected it to the booster line and got 7". I then revved the engine and it almost immediately jumped to about 20" and stayed there.
BTW, when I killed the engine with the valve attached, it stayed steady as a rock, so I'm assuming there are no vac leaks.
I've got a new vacuum pump that I'm gonna put in tomorrow. Since it was such an intermittent problem in the first place, I may not know for awhile whether this is it or not.
Hey thanks a lot! That's a great resource. I just spent hours at the library, and they just don't have diesel repair books, and the standard books assume engine vacuum.
Get a Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual 10330 about $20 at auto parts stores, it has Chebby and Ford info. A good starter book, but some info is a little off.. ie the IP removal instructions "Do Not remove the timing gear cover, gear and IP together"....."leave timing gear cover and gear in place and remove IP from the gear inside".
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.