I have a 2000 f350 4x4 dump V10 with 19885 miles. this truck has been problems since it was new but that is beside the point. Question both sides of the motor have broken off manifold studs. the dealer has quoted 3640.00 to fix. That will not happen. Is this problem all over the place or just in the areas of the country that use salt on the roads. I am not to happy as they would not allow me to extend the warranty because the truck is registered commercial.

Other problems with the truck wiper motor caught fire when the truck has 200 miles on it. all seals replaced on front end and rear pinion before 17000 delayed engage of transmission. But most of all I am looking for other people that have had early failure of exhaust studs. ???? Is this problem large scale??

 

Man sorry about the truck.Studs are not a problem till you try to remove them.My wiper motor went out @12000 miles,but there was a recall on them in 2000.I havent heard of the studs failing.

 

ive read many threads and studs snapping off the v10 seems to be a regular issue. I think in my opinion , probably over torqued when new, combined with many hot cold cycles. possibly inferior grade of steel used also.

 

Are you running an all stock exhaust system ? Any problems with high engine temps ? Motor mounts are all intact ? This is not a normal problem. But, there have been issues with studs snapping off when an attempt to pull the stock manifolds off is made. And there have been posts of loose exhaust studs. But to just have them snap off, that's not common. Has anyone tried to tighten them ? What lead you to notice they were broken ? Exhaust leaks ? Ken

 

I have a '73 F250 I use as a welding rig. I have always had problems with the manifolds (yea - 390 - who don't), but more profound than with unloaded models. This truck has its load located between the rear axle and cab, causing much of the force downward and onto the exhaust pipes instead of normally on the tailpipes.

It's just a theory, but maybe that's what got your manifold bolts - the pipe(s) putting your manifold in a bind. ?????

 

I have a 2000 v10 with 90k which has a snapped exh man stud. I found it when looking for cause of small exh leak noise. I'd assumed the dealer did it or caused it back when they replaced the engine at 20k.

 

In answer to all
The truck is stock we bought it as a cab and chassis with a stake body dump.
I suspect bad steel nuts. The torque of weight sounds interesting but it does not have a constant load on it. We use it to haul job t/o debris to a dumpster at our shop and plowing for our own lot. We do not plow for other people. in total it has one most lower back stud each side off flush with the block,
next lower back each side off with stud remaining flush with face of manifold and two in line each side on the top starting at the back off flush with the manifold. The remaining nuts are in such bad shape that you could not get a wrench on them. the leak is not hard to find I do not think it will pass state inspection. I have had no high engine temps all mounts are in great shape like I said only 20,000 miles the truck. It is well kept and looks like new. I bought it new only because it is very hard to find a used truck built like this one that is not beat to crap. I would still like to hear from anyone else because the dealer has the same motor in a 98 wrecker with the same type of problem. One of the mechanics for the dealer ship that is a friend let me know that. That just seem to be to much of a coincidence for this to be a single incident.

Thanks everyone.

 

Another great Ford blunder. Although, I guess bolting exhaust manifolds to aluminum heads is just such a new design concept. Along with front leaf springs that don't squeak since after all they've only been making them for a hundred years. I won't mention the spark plugs rocketing out of the aluminum heads or junk front wheel bearing with a stupid design that cost a small fortune to replace.
Sorry, the mention of busted exhaust manifold bolts just brings back bad memories and makes me want to go on a rant. You might want to do a search on the super duty forum because it's also been discussed there before.
It certainly is a problem and I bet if more people took a look at there manifolds we'd hear about it a lot more. The very back ones seems to generally be the ones that break first. I'm guessing since the ford dealer wants to charge you so much they must be planning on taking the heads off to fix it. That's how everyone wanted to fix mine too. Good news is that you can fix them without taking off the heads. It's tight but with a close quarter drill you can drill them all out, tap them and install threaded inserts. I'd advise using something other than the Ford junk to hold them back on if you do go through all the time and expense. I ended up installing a Banks Powerpack. I'd be happy to make a list of tools, parts and tips if anyone is planning on tackling the job of fixing them.

 

Thanks JC I have settled down a lot since I got the news and like I said 3640$ will not happen.
My son is an educated Mechanic now we will see if all those student loans are worth anything.

He works in a garage with a racing program and a really great machine shop. His boss is pretty damm good His boss and I looked it over the other day and he pretty much said the same things as you did. My son was not smiling when I pulled in because the bulk work will fall to him and his boss will take care of the finer stuff if necessary. I have driven junk and kept a lot of kid cars on the road for many years even used to be an MG enthusiast. Never expected this crap with a truck with this low mileage. looking at the inner fender well design it kind or funnels the water right at the back studs. I guess it need some inner fender pans like the old days. I have a 48 REO that still has them in. My dad said that most times the first thing that a mechanic did when he took those out was to throw them away. We will add some belting material when we get done to block that off a little as he may have to use a two inch hole saw or do a little trimming of the inner well to get at everything.
Thanks BANKS

 

I certainly don't want to make anyone angry, this isn't the point. But there are things to consider sometimes with any corporation, Ford included;

The US Govt puts huge pressure on automakers to spew less emmissions, get better gas mileage and pay their US work force more money every year (along iwth the unions). We cry foul when a company outsources jobs, yet we will not pay a higher price for the same product even if that product is built in the USA by american workers. In the quest to find more mpg engineers spend jillions of hours trying to redesign parts, to make them lighter, out of less expensive materials to keep costs within reason. And bottom line is the shareholders, they expect a stock price increase, every quarter. And the stockholders have the ear of the chairman of the board. And poop runs downhill, we all know that. It's not as easy as it once was, to design a good car for the people. But, 20-30 years ago a car with 100,000 miles on it was used up, gone, no good. Open a paper now and look at "like new, low miles, only 109,000". So there are SOME good things coming out of all the developments on cars and trucks. We're safer by far, that has to be worth something. A one ton truck that gets a consistent 12 mpg ? That was unheard of 20 years ago, my 89 460 F-250 never broke into double digits, ever. Tune-ups at 100,000 ? No carbs to have to tune ? $300 for a chip to add 50 hp instead of tearing out the cam, intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds and maybe having to drive a car that won't idle ? We ARE in the good old days of cars, right now, look out the window. A 4-door luxury car that goes 0-60 in less than 5 seconds while delivering 20+ mpg AND it's American made while costing half what the germans have, it is an incredible time to be a car guy. Not everything is a better idea unfortunately, how many things have looked great on paper, then turned to disaster in practice in your life ? I've had more than a few. I am NOT defending the corporate world, and some of it's practices, but at the end of the line of vehicle development is normally a couple guys who love cars with an idea of how to make this part better. The corporate world drives me nuts, but it's also a world made up of people, people like us, Ken


(OK, that's my soapbox tirade for 2005, whew, I'm glad I got it out of the way)

 

I use my f-250 to plow and I am also a volunteer fireman, this means the truck is out in the worst or the worst weather, also the roads around here , especially the interstate are heavily treated with salt. I have pictures in my gallery of the front fender sheilds I fabbed to keep the majority of the crap out. Granted these are copies of what Ford used to provide but I think they really help. I used flexible rubber roofing to make the sheilds.

 

I've replaced lots of broken studs on 5.4L engines which is essentially the same as the V10 - 2 cylinders. If you remove the inner fender liner the studs are quite easy to get at.
I've never actually had to drill out any broken studs on these. Usually they will turn out quite easily. Supposedly the new studs and nuts from Ford are better material than the old ones and will last. I hope so

 

I'm sorry to say I really don't have much to add to the topic of the broken exhaust studs except to say I removed mine with ease when bolting on a set of headers. My truck has 56,000 miles has had a pretty easy life. No rust or corrosion, never got hot, always maintained.
Ken04, I've been telling that story for years. I was an auto repair tech for 11 years and all I ever heard from some of our customers were stories about the good ol' days of carbs and points and no emission controls. "Automakers have sabotaged the shade-tree mechanic!" Those guys don't know how good they have it. My truck is a '99 and I still find things to fix on it. (That cup holder is a joke!) They're not perfect but they're still the best trucks on the road.
JC, how's the Banks Power Pack working out for you? My wife got it for me as a Christmas present and I bolted it up as soon as the boxes arrived. I have mixed feelings about it. Installation was a breeze except for the left header/EGRtube/dipstick thing. Head scratcher, that one. I also question the header to y-pipe bolts going down from the top instead of up from the bottom. Everything else damn near fell into place. Did you feel there was a real big power gain? I wasn't expecting miracles but I was really disappointed when I first test drove it. I expected the powerband to shift up with the reduction in backpressure but there was a little less off-idle power and not nearly the midrange gains I'd hoped for. Maybe the computer is taking a little time to compensate for the changes. Lets hope...
BANKS, good luck on the exhaust studs.

 

I've seen several guys that put on a Power Pack ask if anyone else felt more power. A guy at work here put the complete kit on his 454 Suburban a few years ago, and he was not happy at all. But, he didn't tow, had no real load on his rig other than out of stoplights, so what he paid for, wasn't what he wanted. For $2500 he would have been better off with a bolt on supercharger for another grand or so and gotten that push in the back feeling he wanted. Banks makes a great product, RV guys swear by them, hot rodders swear at them, even though the kit does exactly what is promised. It's not what we wanted.

Mechanics, where have they gone ? I know there are still some out there who are truly mechanics. But you go into a big garage and try and talk to most these yokels and they can't tell you how to set the dwell on a small block chevy by ear, if it's not on their OBD II computer screen, they can't fix it. I got so frustrated with my wife's 3.0 Ranger pinging that we had to trade it off, I just couldn't explain to the mechanic the basics of pre-ignition. In fact, and this is no lie, and I've posted it here enough that some of these guys will tell me enough is enough. But the service guy I last talked to said; "my F-150 does the same thing (pings all the time), it's OK, I just turn up the radio". No kidding. Which is what brought me to this site originally, I wanted to be able to talk to, and learn from people who had brain cells, and had actually worked on an engine, and knew how and why they worked, and didn't work, it's been refreshing to discuss mechanics here, even though I am a neophyte, I still enjoy guys like FredVon4 and others, they have practical knowledge, and they share it, what could be better ? Ken

 

I don't expect things to be perfect but, come on. There has certainly been improvements to cars over the years but in the case of at least this truck they seem to have gone backwards instead of forward in some of the most basic things. A wheel bearing needs grease so I have to spend $1000?? WTF It's not like the thing lasted 150,000 miles, it lasted more along the lines of 60,000 miles.
Exhaust manifold studs breaking and spark plugs shooting out of the head? There is no reason for these things. They've been making alumium heads for at least 30 years now. They sound like simple things to fix but again, you're looking at thousands of dollars to fix. I haven't done it so I can't say for sure but if you look at shop manuals removing the head on these trucks is suppose to take 2-3 times longer than removing most heads. Again, these problems aren't happening at 150,000 miles but much much earlier.
You're right, in general most people are more interested in price than quality but, I'm not one of them. I have no problem paying top dollar for a quality product and would much much rather have something that will last rather than having the newest fade. When I was looking for an exhaust I went with Banks not because it was the cheapest but because everyone said it was best. And when my wheel bearings crap out again I'll more than likely go with the dynatrac kit because it is suppose to be the best not because it is the cheapest. If they had offered it at the time that's what I would have bought the first time they went out.
I'll end my rant now and finish off by saying even though they have their problems the super duty does have the potential to be the best truck ever made IMHO. I have every intentions of keeping this truck for at least 20 years and fix and upgrade as needed.