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It's not, but sitting at a light or in stand still traffic isn't real good on your tranny either, especially if the idle is higher than normal during warm-up.
OK, I have seen many of you reply to various posts with pretty experienced answers and I think most of you know what your talking about but, I still have to ask. Why is this any harder on the tranny than sitting at a stop light with your foot on the brake?
when the engine is cold it will go into high idle (1000-1200 rpm) so its like sitting at a stoplight with one foot on the accelerator (reving the engine up) and one foot on the brake. as stated before its like power braking the trans for 5 or however minutes...very hard on the trans.
Yea, thats why i hate boston traffic in MA, Stop and go for HOURS. I Wait till i can drive forward at least 20-30 Ft, and put it in drive, move up and back into N. Seems to work O.K. , Of course that not great for the trans eather.... good thing i only drive throught there once or twice a month!! (I love the sound of the new exhuast echoing off the walls of the tunnel, and if some punk kid has his radio blasting, i will casually roll my foor on the gas and give him a nice 3 Grand bass hit from my pipes!! that usually shuts them up!!)
OK, I have seen many of you reply to various posts with pretty experienced answers and I think most of you know what your talking about but, I still have to ask. Why is this any harder on the tranny than sitting at a stop light with your foot on the brake?
The shearing of the oil in the torque converter makes LOTS of heat. At idle it doesn't make enough to worry about due to the lower speed differential between the housing and the driven turbine inside. But double the rpm and now there is a whole lot more torque being applied to the turbine and no rotation of the turbine to pump that hot oil out and cooler oil back in and control the temperature.
Why do you think that you hear stories of overloaded trucks puking ATF when they are trying to park that monster 5th wheel? Very low speed and very high torque situation.
Not that it makes any difference to the debate, but doesn't the cold idle only function when in neutral? Putting the tranny in gear would return the idle to normal, even when cold, doesn't it?
So basicly a transmission doesn't circulate fluid out of the torque converter until moving the rig at some speed. Sitting still at high idle without moving allows fluid in the torque conveter to boil. It doesn't show up on the temp gauge because it's not circulating through the trans. Again, I don't plan to do this but, the main damage would be in the tq at first, then in the rest of the trans from the broken down fluid. Right or wrong? When the the overloaded rigs are puking fluid, where does it come out, the vent line, tq seal??
when the engine is cold it will go into high idle (1000-1200 rpm) so its like sitting at a stoplight with one foot on the accelerator (reving the engine up) and one foot on the brake. as stated before its like power braking the trans for 5 or however minutes...very hard on the trans.
Only one problem with that: The truck has to be in PARK in order to high idle.
Still, I wouldn't idle in drive for any extended period of time. The engine still will not warm up any faster because it will not high idle on it's own. Block heater or drive it right away, those are your options.
So basicly a transmission doesn't circulate fluid out of the torque converter until moving the rig at some speed. Sitting still at high idle without moving allows fluid in the torque conveter to boil. It doesn't show up on the temp gauge because it's not circulating through the trans. Again, I don't plan to do this but, the main damage would be in the tq at first, then in the rest of the trans from the broken down fluid. Right or wrong? When the the overloaded rigs are puking fluid, where does it come out, the vent line, tq seal??
Park and neutral are the same thing for the trans with the exception of the locking tooth engaged to the wheel in the trans when in park. While in neutral the transmission is freewheeling, allowing the turbine to spin and circulate fluid. It's when you put it in gear, that's when the clutch packs lock up, providing a path for the torque to reach the rear wheels. Then the turbine is stopped if the vehicle is not moving.
Thanks Kwik, Over the years I've R&R's just about every part there is but have only rebuilt carberators, alternators, and starters. So I really don't have a clue how a tranny works. Your knowledge is very helpful to me.
When the fluid comes out of the overloaded vehicle if you are lucky it is only the vent and not the torque conv. seal. If you have four wheel drive, use low range to help prevent this.
My '97 psd came with n electronic idle control. So when it's cold, here in Alaska, I can set up the idle speed to about 1000 to 1200 rpm. This helps for a faster warm up.
Also, for a few minutes before I leave, I put the auto tranny in neutral. I've found that this circulates and warms up the tranny fluid enough that it shifts alot better than cold.
One thing that we never use, in Alaska, is the parking break. I hate it when you have to crawl under your truck, when it's -20 or so to thaw out your break drums with a propane torch....
Check your thermostat. Mine seemed to workin ok but had the same problem when cold. Changed it out and even though the original one looked and seemed to be workin fine, the new one fixed the problem. Diesels are naturally gunna take longer to warm as they dont have as hot of combustion when first starting, that and the fact they have huge amounts or coolant in the block.
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