I just bought a NOS headlight switch for my '49 F-1. I plug it up and nothing works but the headlights. Any suggestions to get the headlight switch to work? I was using a universal style headlight switch and all the lights worked. I am wanting to know if there is any way to get the NOS headlight switch to work. Is it a bad switch or is something else the matter?

 

Is it a 12 volt on a 6 volt?

 

Hi Saxtonj,

It's hard to diagnose the problem without more information. A wiring diagram would be a big help for you as a start. I have a 56 wiring diagram, but I don't think it is the same as your 49.

Do you have a shop manual for your truck? If not, you can pick one up from our FTE sponsor, MotorHaven. Just click on the red PARTS SHOP button on the upper-right of the forum screen. The shop manual will have a wiring diagram along with troubleshooting and tons of other info on your truck. It's the best money you'll ever spend.

 

I apologize for my vaugeness... I purchase a NOS headlight switch for a '48-'50 F-1... its for 6 volt application which I am currently running. I used my shop manual wiring diagram to hook it up. I previously had a universal headlight switch like you get at any parts store. I wired up the NOS switch according to the wiring diagram and to the same posts as the universal switch... Headlight wire to headlight post, tail light to tail light post, battery to battery post on switch etc, etc.
Only the headlights would come on but not parking or tail. I rewired the universal and all lights would work. Rewired the NOS... only headlights. The post on the switch are marked and I KNOW I have it wired correctly. I am trying to find out would an NOS headlight switch not work from the factory. It was in the original box..... clean and shiney. Is there any suggestion to get the switch to work or did I waste a lot of money on a bad NOS headlight switch. Again, my truck is restored original, wiring, running gear, gauges etc. I would love to correct the problem because NOS headlight switches are nearly non existent and I spent the past 5 years trying to find that one. I want to take it apart and see if perhaps the contacts inside are corroded but am scared the black plastic will shatter while trying to open the switch. Any switch trouble shooting/disassembly help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Saxtonj

If you have an ohm meter, in you multimeter, why not check each contact for continuity (meter should read 0 ohms) when switch is on. Without power connected, of course.

Tom

 

This might be a dumb suggestion, but you do realize the parking lights are out when the headlights are on? Parks come on with the first click, then go out when headlights come on with the second click.....

Do you have the stock wire colors to compare with a wiring schematic?

holding the switch with the button at the top and connections toward you,
top left wire is black/orange tracer === top right wire is red/yellow tracer
middle left no wires =============== middle right is yellow/red tracer
bottom left 2 wires =============== bottom right is black/yellow tracer
black and blue/red tracer

 

I have the original style aftermarket wiring harness that is correctly color coded. I also have the wiring diagram from the shop manual. The hot wire, the headlight wires etc all work when attached to the corresponding posts on the universal switch. So the wiring is OK...I am aware of the parking/headlight situation. In the headlight switch position the headlights are all that come on... Naturally the headlights don't come on in the parking light position. I must assume the NOS switch is a non functioning unit.

 

Well, it sounds like you've done your homework on the obvious causes, and have the right information to wire it correctly. You could be right - maybe the switch was dead in the box, and you've answered your own question. The only option I can think of is to disassemble the switch very carefully and see if the insides are corroded or damaged. I hope it works out for you.

 

Jumper the switch contacts from the battery terminal to each of the other terminals with the switch off (except ground of course). If the corresponding lights light then you most likely have a bad switch. Have you checked the fuses? A homemade lightbulb power tester is a big help in chasing down electrical problems and is quick and easy to make. It's a lot handier than a meter when you're hanging upside down under the dash. all you need is a 2 wire bulb socket like for an instrument panel light, a known good bulb, an icepick or resharpened awl, a good sized alligator clip and some wire and electrical tape. wrap one wire from the bulb socket around the pick or awl just under the handle and tape the wire and socket to it. attach about 2' of wire to the other bulb lead and put the aligator clip on the end. Now you can clip the clip to a good ground (bare metal or bolt) and touch the terminal you want to test with the pick. The bulb will light if there is juice present, which is a lot easier and faster to see than trying to hold two probes and read a meter. You can also test a wire along it's length by sticking the point of the pick into the wire through the insulation. The small hole made by the point won't cause any problems later. That's a good way to find a wire in the loom or a broken wire.

 

PS: what is unique about that switch compared to say a 53-55 F100 switch?

 

AXracer,

Thanks for the reply, but wiring problems are not the issue. It seems to be the switch itself... and the closest thing to a fuse I have is a circuit breaker...which is working fine or at least is closing the circuit at the moment. I don't suppose anyone knows if those switches are in reproduction?

 

The switch for the '48-50 is merely that... a switch... while the later model ones like you are referring to have rheostats.

 

The original headlight switch for the 48 has two power feeds. One from the 30 amp breaker to run the headlamps and one from the 15 amp breaker to run everything else. You might have a bad 15 amp breaker or be missing the second power feed.

 

if it was me, id throw the switch against the wall, put it back in the box, take it back, and tell them that it doesnt work.....if everything works with the old switch, it should work with the new switch

 

YES! I'll bet that's it, a universal switch uses a single feed.