First I would like to thank all for this great source of information. I am starting to plan my restoration of a 1949 F3 that I've had since 1980,I used it then for local college transportation. It has sat for 20 years and now I have the money and time to restore it. My Question is I would like to keep things as close to original as possible but know that the stock master cylinder is dangerous. I'd like to see what options are possible , swap a different master that has a primary and secondary piston. Or, should I consider someting else. I' like the truck for local driving and be dependable.
Thanks
Dave

 

The first thing I would do is take a look at the rear drums. If they are not serviceable you will need to find something to fit. The drums are no longer made even Repop that I could find I looked and called for well over a month. I tried all the places in the US including Raybestos. The drums are not the same as the F2 do not listen to what the sales people tell you. The catalogs are incorrect when they list the rear of an F2 and F3 as being the same. Again measure the outside Diameter before buying anything. If you need new rear drums you may want to switch to a different rearend which can effect the master cylinder choice. I have allot of new parts for the F3 brakes I can sell you if you would like. Front and rear brakes hose, shoes, rebuild kits for wheel cylinders etc. I never was able to get new rear drums and I ended up switching rear ends and bolt patterns. Then I switched the front end to disk.

 

Hi Dave,

I know how it is when you want to keep it original, but Christopher is correct in being cautious before investing in parts for your original brake setup. If you are sure it is the original rear end, you should have a Timken 51524 axle with 14" brakes (brake drum part number 8Y-1126). I have seen some references for the F-3 with the smaller 12" brakes (brake drum part number 8 D-1126), but I agree with Chris that those smaller brakes were originally only on the smaller trucks (F-2, F-1) with the Ford rear axle. It's easy to check - pull a rear drum and measure the inside diameter.

Someone posted an illustration of the Timken rear axle recently, but I can't seem to find it so here it is again.




JobLot Automotive at www.JobLotAuto.com had new 8Y-1126 14" brake drums in stock up until a year or two ago. I called my contact there (James) and, as Chris said, they have sold all of the drums from their last manufacturing run. If I recall correctly, James mentioned that they only have a manufacturer do a casting run of those rarer items if they can guarantee they have enough sales for at least half of them. Otherwise, they end up losing money - not a good way to run a business, I'm sure.

Barry, I know you have a lot of resources for some of these older parts - do you know where Dave may be able to get replacement drums?

If your drums are OK, the other wear parts seem to be available for the axle, and you might be able to keep it original - at least until you wear out the brake drums.

A couple comments on the original brake system. I think you need to figure out how you'll use the truck before deciding if the original setup is dangerous or not. Properly maintained, the original brakes will work fine for short hops and low-speed cruising. If you are going to be hauling big loads and/or doing a lot of high speed or stop-and-go driving at intermediate speeds, you'll really have to stay on top of the brake inspection and service to maintain a good safety margin. Another consideration is who will be driving the vehicle. I don't feel uncomfortable driving a vehicle with a single hydraulic brake system, but I would never want my daughter driving one because she is not as tuned into the signs that something is going bad.

At any rate, good luck with the project and keep us up to date on your progress!

 

George the late 51 and 52 F-3's used the the 12" drums which I think are still available. They also used many of the brake parts used on the 53-60 F-250's. I wonder if backing plates off a 51-52 would fit the 48-50-early 51 axle? If so I'd almost be willing to torch the rivets that hold the ones on my wrecked M-3 axle but you would have to some emergency brake hardware since they used the tranny mount one. The backing plates have the spot but just need to be drilled.

 

Guys thanks for the help. I am just getting a "game plan" on how I want to proceed with this project. I will check the rear drums to see their condition. My hope is to make this truck an ocassional driver or even haul with it. I guess a you have stated I need to evaluate my current system. I was wondering if maybe a dual master cylinder was possible. thanks Dave

 

'87 to '93 Mustang 5.0 L Master cylinder and break booster is suggested by Bonusbuilt.com.
Fits on the frame with a bracket.

Is this O.K? don't know, but I may do this on my 48' F-5.

 

Dave,

As another F-3 owner I'd suggest you not spend any money on that oddball rear end. The ratio is so high that the engine will be screaming at 50 MPH anyway. To keep the truck as original looking as possible and keep the 8 bolt pattern, look for a lower ratio F-250 rear end from a later truck. If you want to change it over to a five bolt pattern eventually, find a 57-72 F-100 pickup nine inch. Take care of these items first and then decide on which master cylinder would work best with the newer components so you don't end up doing all the the brake stuff twice.

Vern

 

Reamer,

The 87-93 Mustang master cylinder is for discs/drums. If your F-5 has drum brakes all around you would be better off with an early Mustang MC (68-72?) which was made for four wheel drum brakes. However, I do not know what would be involved in making it fit your truck.

Vern

 

Early built (parking brake under the dash) 8 hole brake drums are still available as is the necessary brake hardware, cylinder, etc to rebuild your brakes. Late built (parking brake on floor near gear shift) 8 hole drums are NOT available. Nor will they ever be as far as I have been told by numerous sources, including joblot automotive. I am not sure what is involved with interchanging the two. I think you need a different back plate and brake shoe set? Along with swapping to an early 70's (manual) dual master brake cylinder from a Mustang (per bonusbuilt,com), the changes would be minor and should get you through whatever you need to do with the truck. I have a late built 51 F3. I am still looking for a decent FORD 8 hole rear end swap for the better gear ratio and bigger brakes, all FORD of course, without having to cut and chop. Front brakes????, still looking for a decent 8 hole lug swap for those also. I am not into putting Jap car parts or C**vy parts on my FORD.

 

Hseries,

Have you considered the DANA 60 that Vern suggested? It sounds like you want something pretty heavy duty and the 60 may not suit you. On the other hand, it does have the 8 bolt pattern and is pretty rugged from what I've read.

 

The Problem with 68-72 Master cyl. is there is no room to open the steel cap design when installed. Bonusbuilt suggested the later model because the plastic tub has the screw on cap like the original.

 

Earl, I haven't really looked for a replacement yet. If it originally came on a Ford pickup, has an 8 bolt lug pattern, decent brakes and can be fitted into my 51 F3 with the absolute minimum of cutting, hacking and rigging then I would be interested in it. The replacement rear end should be able to hold the weight just as much as the original rear-end it has now. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.