Ya i was looking over at Flatlanders. 660 for 8k. Not bad really. I just never thought though I would have more in my heads than in the short block. My real question is do I trust them to put the short block together. That thing has a 4.75 stroke. Amazing, I don't know how they keep the pistons from dropping out. I don't think I would take it to max bore though. I want to have room to grow it.

Now just to sell my 501. I'll never get what I have into it out of it. But I knew that going in. Maybe I'll just work on the frame for awhile and see what is new over the next year. Prices do seem to be coming down. I would hate to have the engine just setting around and nothing to put it in.

 

Monster,
Everything you said about the blocks and heads are correct. I would like to add one thing about the DOVE-A blocks that were there and there were several. Most (not all) of them also have the 429 Boss front and rear that is thicker around the main that makes them stonger than the other blocks. There was a factory 4 bolt DOVE-A that didn't have the Boss bulkhead while the 2 bolt blocks did. Weird!

 

I'm not saying that the pre-73 blocks are beefier, just that they are a different alloy mix. as far as I have ever seen, the castings themselves, were almost the same 68-79 (except for the Boss head bulge previously mentioned, and I've only seen one 4 bolt main block myself) the wall thicknesses are similar throughout, but the nickle content makes the earlier blocks harderthey resist ring wear better than later blocks, they also seem to hold their original line bore a little better.

 

Like I said with the earlier post there is no difference in the nickle content the earlier blocks do not wear any better, but without a documented assay to post I will not aurgue it, but have seen alot of blocks including the mexican 302 blocks that have a verified higher nickle content, and I can gaurentee once you have seen high nickle iron you will never confuse it with nodular iron, and there is no difference in the 385 blocks in that regard. High nickle iron looks totally different and without the casting numbers you would not be able to tell the difference in the 460 blocks by looking at the iron, and they don't machine any different either.
one other note on high nickel, if it was alot stronger then the 9" carriers would be made out of it, instead of nodular which flexes better, high nickle is much more prone to cracking if there is any flex, and under high hp, and rpm numbers the higher nickle would cause the main webbings to crack out alot more often, and would also cause the cyl walls to bust out at the thinner numbers that were found instead of allowing some flex without cracking.

 

I have a C9VE and a D0VE-A block and I am going to bore one of them .080 over, what is different in the C8VE that won't allow it to go over .030. ?
I only ask this because I thought the C9VE and the C8VE were the same, but I am always willing and wanting to know more.

Never worry about hurting my pride by correcting me, I will always appriciate good information.

thanks,
deerhunter3814

 

They are the same. But I think as we will find out soon that all these blocks are not cast the same even within the same year. Sonic checking a block is the only way to be sure. I think its just the luck of the draw. I've heard of people going .1 over but I have never seen it.

In my case the C8 just was not thick enough so I found a non-bored D1. I like D1's because the block is taller and it is easier to square it up.

 

I wish we lived closer, I would like to trade you a D1 block for a C8 block, I have one that is standard bore and does not even need boring. That is my luck, always out of range, or that is what my wife says.


deerhunter3814

 

My C8 block has already been punched out .030 and is dead already so it wouldn't help.

 

Two of the blocks that I had at the (summit) were only thin on one cylinder and then it was non thrust. If I ever do a .080 motor I'll just have a thick sleeve put in that hole and go on. Don't ever be afraid to sleeve a block to save it.

 

the block I had had one cyl that was .095 on a none thrust wall as it's thinnest cyl at .060 overbore marginal but will work but if I decided I wanted to go .080 over I would do like greenhighboy stated and sleeve that one cyl, and bore it. at .080 my thinnest cyl would be .108 after the 80 overbore, and I think that the other guys that were there will verify every single block in the place had one cyl that was thin, and it seemed to me that they all could use having that one cyl sleeved if you wanted to go .080, so I would have it sonic checked, and sleeve the thin cyl, and bore it.

 

Monster, who are you over on the 385 forum?

 

same sign in name

 

Good to see a bunch of the 385series guys here spreading info from the block summit, sorry I couldn't make it.

Anyway, I understand trying to get the most bang for the buck as far as a block goes...but the fact is that the garden variety D1VE and D9TE blocks will take a HUGE amount of power. Friends of mine run them with 557 adn 545 combos, 750hp with street/strip time...no problems. If a guy is looking to go 900hp with a stock block, it may be worth it to find the absolute best stock block, but otherwise they're ALL strong enough for even radical street use. I even sold a DOVE a short time ago because I just didn't see a need for it, and the $300 it brought helped buy the topend parts that really make the power. If you're considering any build using 88 heads...you'll be fine with any block.