This is a cross-post for this and the Ranger forum. Appologies to anyone I might offend by doing this, but It sort of belongs to both, right?

I have a 1988 Ranger that I recently bought (well, me and my bank). I’ve done the prerequisite tune up, plugs, wires, fluids, etc., and over this past week, I’ve had the distinct pleasure of playing on the ground in the snow to replace the rear u-joint, and the yoke to the rear differential that it took with it. Other than the standard Ford problems (headlight high beam/low beam switch, horrible ticking, etc), the truck runs well. Most of the time.

My problems start when I go over about 60 for a sustained amount of time (or climbing hills at any speed). The engine will seem to loose power, with the RPM’s slowly rising while the truck slows down. I’ve found that (don’t laugh) if I down-shift (it’s an automatic, thanks for asking), the engine will “pop” or “hiccup” or whatever you want to call it, and then my power comes back, and I’m good for a few more miles. I know this is most likely making the problem worse, but the alternatives aren’t pretty, either.

I’ve read the posts about replacing sensors, and about a bad oil pump (or gasket), but nothing quite like this. I was wondering if these sort of symptoms would be indicative of other problems. I’m not afraid to get my hands dirty, and have loved the ’88 fords I’ve had in the past (Thunderbird T/C, Bronco II), but I’m just at a loss. Everyone I talk to seems to have something different to say.

Oh, in case it’s needed, 1988 Ford Ranger Ex. Cab, 4x4, Auto

Thanks in advance!!

 

The fact that the engine RPM's increase while the truck slows down, and that it can fix itself (even temporarily) by shifting, makes me think it's a transmission issue.

 

Try checking your fuel pump relay. that seems to be the most common problem with the hiccups in the 2.9 i believe it is on the drivers side rail or behind the seat in the compartment not sure have to check manual

 

I will be looking at this fuel pump relay as I have the same problems with my 2.9 going up hills, with the popping or hiccuping, and I noticed it seems to run better cold than warmed up, runs great on straight stretches [highway] at higher speeds, and then when hitting the upslopes, I get this problem,,, anything else we can look at,,, I did read someone mentioning alternator shorting out, although the charging is great,,, hmmm comments anyone

 

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alright i answered this thread a w2hile ago.. before i had brains.... and a crapped out truck.....the fuel pump relay is under the hood on the passenger side mounted on the fender... check the manual for exactly which one it is.. its also a good idea to change the fuel filter and while you are down there .. check the connection to the high power fuel pump as the connection can be shotty being under this rig... check the wiring to the TFI on the distributor or the remote mounted version.. these usually have some pins that slide around causing faults to the computer....then have the tfi ohmed out .. the manual tells you what hte parameters are of this operation... and if all this cehcks out .. try getting the ecm tested as the vacumn line running to it may not be turning the switchon inside of it as was the final case to me.. also have the ignition coil ohmed out to make sure it is fucntioning properly... also had to replace mine.. if doing so look into the msd made Ford TFI ignition coil.. it is an oem style upgrade that bolts right in and wont fry everythign like a blaster would without a proper cap... other than that make sure all the ground around the engine bay are connection and clean for some reason the grounds like to make everythign suck... also if you are really into taking things apart then pull the gas tank and replace the low pressure fuel pump that is in tank... it has issues with the correct flow and the gas gauge in the car... other than that make sure the ignition where the key goes in are good and solid and i think i have covered everythign involved in turning the key and making gas flow properly... .. i went through three weeks of diagnosing and replacing.. now she runs better than new.... well sorta.. tapping still loud and transmission chatter but idles beautifully and has more power.. my next step is to get involved and know how ot port things.. buying a donor engine form a junkyard to practice with.. good luck to everyone with a hiccup.. its a very very common thing in these little but tough rigs... good luck man im tired

 

Not sure why it would be an alternator, but if you want to test the concept, disconnect the field coil and the charging output. The vehicle will run just fine for a couple of hours without the alternator.

If you still experience the loss of power, then the alternator "shorting" out can't be your problem.