4 wd question
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Nanaimo Canada
4 wd question
Hi Folks,
We got a little snow here and I need to drive my 69 F250 4X4 in 4 WH. I know from reading past posts that you cannot drive the older 4wd's in 4wd on dry pavement (creates tension in drive train). Can you drive the older 4wd trucks in 2 WD without unlocking the hubs for short distances ?. I would like to switch from 2 wd to 4 wd and back (by transfer case) without getting out of the truck to lock/unlock the hubs. The 69 has a NP 435, a divorced dana 20 (?) transfer case and a HD dana 44 front axle. Thanks for any replies.
Cies
We got a little snow here and I need to drive my 69 F250 4X4 in 4 WH. I know from reading past posts that you cannot drive the older 4wd's in 4wd on dry pavement (creates tension in drive train). Can you drive the older 4wd trucks in 2 WD without unlocking the hubs for short distances ?. I would like to switch from 2 wd to 4 wd and back (by transfer case) without getting out of the truck to lock/unlock the hubs. The 69 has a NP 435, a divorced dana 20 (?) transfer case and a HD dana 44 front axle. Thanks for any replies.
Cies
all alone in the world
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,038
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From: oklahoma
yep you can lock the hubs and drive about anywhere, as long as there is nothing wrong with you front end drive parts. i wouldnt go 100 miles like that, but you should be good for quite a distance with out any problems.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 920
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From: Westminster, Colorado
Same here....I have a 67 F-250 with a NP435/np205 mated setup out of a 77 or 79....I notice I hear more rumbling with the hubs locked...but it's easy to shift in and out of 4wd....Here in Colorado, I usually only have to drive like that for a day or two, then I unlock the hubs and slide around a bit on the ice/snow that is left.....you have to have SOME fun....it's amazing how quick a truck like ours will get squirrly though, so be careful....try not to smash up too many cars/signs/etc. 
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 244
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From: Fort Nelson B.C.
I wonder if a guy would be ok around town in 4x4, providing the speed isn't more than say 30-35mp/h and there is snow pack on all the roads and the drivetrain is all new and strong? The reason I ask is because I can't go any where in 2wd in my town!! So it just sits till the snow melts or the 4x4 gets finished.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 920
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From: Westminster, Colorado
It should be fine...what it needs is a little bit of slippabillity so the tires can rotate at their own speeds....the same thing that makes it all "jumpy" and "jerky" on clean dry pavement....especially when turning.
Off topic, but related......When I lived up in Lansing, MI...all I had was a 74 Beetle(With no heat).....I had no idea how much i was sliding around until summer finally arrived (I think that was in July! ) That car has AMAZING traction.
Off topic, but related......When I lived up in Lansing, MI...all I had was a 74 Beetle(With no heat).....I had no idea how much i was sliding around until summer finally arrived (I think that was in July!
) That car has AMAZING traction.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 120
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From: Westbank BC
You should be fine. I've run all my Fords that way in Winter up here in Winnipeg. Heck on some I used to just lock the hubs in November and unlock them in Spring if the weather stays bad enough. If it's not needed just put her in 2wd... pull her into 4wd when you need it. See that way, the case and front axle are uncoupled in 2wd.. so at that point you will get no binding.
It's when you get grip or no tire slip( until one does) while turning on dry pavement you will get that jerking as forementioned by someone else.
Driveline bind is hard on things, and makes life difficult while trying to get out of 4wd so do it before you try parking in a clean parking lot!
So long as all the bearings and Ujoint are good.. you should be able to run down the highway at 70 MPH in 4wd..( Read Hi not Lo range!!! )
....But with 25-40 year old trucks.. likely if you haven't rebuilt things... you will have loose or shot joints,bearings and or bent shafts that will give you crazy vibrations and a hell of a lot of noise in a old gear drive trans truck.
Besides if you are stuck with 29" tires and 4:11 gears, it's unlikely you will be ripping around at 70 MPH anyways ...lol
It's when you get grip or no tire slip( until one does) while turning on dry pavement you will get that jerking as forementioned by someone else.
Driveline bind is hard on things, and makes life difficult while trying to get out of 4wd so do it before you try parking in a clean parking lot!
So long as all the bearings and Ujoint are good.. you should be able to run down the highway at 70 MPH in 4wd..( Read Hi not Lo range!!! )
....But with 25-40 year old trucks.. likely if you haven't rebuilt things... you will have loose or shot joints,bearings and or bent shafts that will give you crazy vibrations and a hell of a lot of noise in a old gear drive trans truck.
Besides if you are stuck with 29" tires and 4:11 gears, it's unlikely you will be ripping around at 70 MPH anyways ...lol
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Lost Wages, NV
Like marc I lock my '69 F-110 hubs in the fall and they stay that way until spring. No problems whatsoever. If I didn't I'd be crouching in the snow constantly. I think I locked them in back in late October and won't unlock them until I figure we're finished getting snowed on. About the only thing it does is put a bit more drag which affects gas mileage a little, but it's not like I'm getting anything good to begin with. Also, I do take it on road trips down to the valley which is about 220 miles round trip at speeds up to 70MPH with no issues.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Atlanta GA
I basically keep my hubs locked in all the time. With the hubs locked in, the steering might feel heavier then normal (noticed that on my BIIs), or if you start to get a vibration after 35 mph it might mean a hub is still locked or engaged or you need to rotate a shaft or change a bad UJ.
It really does not hurt anything except MPG and I Have driven my trucks to 65 mph for thousands of miles with the hubs locked. Also, I change my front end fluid a lot and grease my UJs a lot so wear is not a big deal.
On a snow covered street, go ahead and use 4x4 without worry. Just do not crank the wheel full to one side, while stopped in 4x4, while getting heavy on the gas and keep speeds to < 35 mph.
It really does not hurt anything except MPG and I Have driven my trucks to 65 mph for thousands of miles with the hubs locked. Also, I change my front end fluid a lot and grease my UJs a lot so wear is not a big deal.
On a snow covered street, go ahead and use 4x4 without worry. Just do not crank the wheel full to one side, while stopped in 4x4, while getting heavy on the gas and keep speeds to < 35 mph.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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It's actually good to run the hubs locked-in during the summer. The owners manual tells you to run them locked for a while each month. It splashes the gear oil around and gets it up to the king pin bearing. It also lubes the universal in there. There were two styles of the Dana 44 HD. One was a Dana 44-6F-HD. That is the axle with lock-out hubs. It was an option. The other had no lock-out hubs and the outer hub was slightly different. The splines were different inside . If your front end shakes, you may need new king pin bearings or you may need to adjust the preload on the bearings.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Lost Wages, NV
Somewhat related to this thread- As for running in 4WD on dry pavement, Ford started using the NP 203 transfer case in 1975 on F-100's and F-250's. It incorporated a differential inside the transfer case and chain-drive to the front axle. The differential made up for the difference in axle speeds when turning and such so you could run in 4WD on dry pavement. Since so many of these old trucks are pieced together from many years of parts the year alone doesn't really determine just what you should/shouldn't do as far as 4WD is concerned. It's always good to know exactly what parts you have under you.
Cies- As to the question mark on your transfer case--no guarantees, but I think it's a Dana Model 24 if it's original.
Cies- As to the question mark on your transfer case--no guarantees, but I think it's a Dana Model 24 if it's original.
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