'89 E350 external fuel pump questions
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From: Portland, OR
'89 E350 external fuel pump questions
I recently rebuilt top end of E350 that has sat for about a year. So far I have had to work on all systems. Now I'm on the fuel problems. From the postings on FTE, I'm pretty sure I need a new external fuel pump, but all suppliers say that I need to replace the intank pump also. What would happen if I replaced the external pump only?? Upon inspection, it looks like the rear tank does not have any electrical going into or out of it just two fuel lines. Thanks for any help. Loneleader.
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From: Portland, OR
Patrick,
The E350 has a 351W (5.8L). My reason for beliveing it's a fuel problem is when the timing is set properly at 10 degrees fast, she wants to die at idle, and pings to hard clatter under load, When the timing is retarded, she runs fine until you pull a hill or accelerate, then the ping/clatter is noticeable. The steeper the hill or the harder the acceleration, the louder the ping/clatter. When I had the heads rebuilt, I installed new timing gears and chain, plugs and wires, coil and EGR. All work I have done in the past, so I feel confident the problem's in the fuel system, or emmision system.
Zig
The E350 has a 351W (5.8L). My reason for beliveing it's a fuel problem is when the timing is set properly at 10 degrees fast, she wants to die at idle, and pings to hard clatter under load, When the timing is retarded, she runs fine until you pull a hill or accelerate, then the ping/clatter is noticeable. The steeper the hill or the harder the acceleration, the louder the ping/clatter. When I had the heads rebuilt, I installed new timing gears and chain, plugs and wires, coil and EGR. All work I have done in the past, so I feel confident the problem's in the fuel system, or emmision system.
Zig
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From: Hoquiam, WA
Mine did the same thing.
I ended up replacing the ICM and the entire dizzy. I was only going to replace the stator, but the diz shaft had more play in it than I was comfortable with.
Sounds like you know what you're doing, but I have to ask...Did you disconnect the spout when setting the timing?
Patrick
I ended up replacing the ICM and the entire dizzy. I was only going to replace the stator, but the diz shaft had more play in it than I was comfortable with.
Sounds like you know what you're doing, but I have to ask...Did you disconnect the spout when setting the timing?
Patrick
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From: Portland, OR
Good question, but yes. When I first put her back together, I set the timing by where she ran best at idle. Later I unpluged spout, that's when she no longer ran well at idle, but still would not run right under load.
How do I recognize ICM, and where is it located? What is the dizzy? I really don't know what I'm doing, but thanks for the vote of confidence. I am familiar with old tech carborator engines, not EFI.
Zig
How do I recognize ICM, and where is it located? What is the dizzy? I really don't know what I'm doing, but thanks for the vote of confidence. I am familiar with old tech carborator engines, not EFI.
Zig
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From: Hoquiam, WA
Sorry about that...dizzy=distributor.
The ICM (ignition control module) is on the side of the distributor, under the base.
It has a wire harness that plugs into it.
They can be taken off and brought to a parts store and tested to see if they are working or not.
It looks like this
Or you may have a fender mounted one that looks like this
The ICM (ignition control module) is on the side of the distributor, under the base.
It has a wire harness that plugs into it.
They can be taken off and brought to a parts store and tested to see if they are working or not.
It looks like this
Or you may have a fender mounted one that looks like this
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From: Portland, OR
OK, I finally looked it up in my Chilton. Like I said, I really don't know what I'm doing.
So, you don't think my problem is a fuel pump but rather the distributor??? That should be an easy fix. I'll let you know when I get it replaced. Thanks!!!
Zig
So, you don't think my problem is a fuel pump but rather the distributor??? That should be an easy fix. I'll let you know when I get it replaced. Thanks!!!
Zig
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From: Hoquiam, WA
To me, the symptoms that you are describing are leading me to think that it may be the ICM. It may be only part of the problem. If that doesn't work, then the stator is next. The stator is in the distributor, and you have to disassemble the distributor to get to it. OR, buy another distributor.
Patrick
Patrick
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From: Portland, OR
When I pulled the top end off, I looked at the distributor and questioned wether or not I should replace it. Van only has 112k miles. I thought I could save a buck, but I guess I should have gone with my gut feeling. I sure could have saved a lot of time and aggravation. Anyway, I'll order a "dizzy" tomorrow. Thanks.
Zig
Zig
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From: Hoquiam, WA
Mines had 130K on it.
Like I stated before, it had just a little too much play in it for me to be comfortable.
That may or may not be the problem, but at least you'll have it covered now.
Patrick
Like I stated before, it had just a little too much play in it for me to be comfortable.
That may or may not be the problem, but at least you'll have it covered now.
Patrick
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From: Portland, OR
Is there any test I can run? I borrowed a code reader but I can't find where the darn thing plugs in. Also I think I need a code reader to decode the code reader, it only has a flashing light. are there any out there that have a LCD readout instead for vintage Fords?
Zig
Zig
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hello, the dizzy could well be your trouble. i just put a 87 e150 on the road that sat for a while. i had the same trouble caused by one bad sp wire that arched. i know you got new wires but i'd double check them and run the engine in the dark, looking for flashes. cross fire could also be happening. with one bad wire and a loose vacuum line i could barely get it up a hill on the way home.
if your gas cap is bad there could be water in the tank but i'm leaning toward a spark issue. also a good mech. can check your fuel and emmissions pressures. if your tank filter is funny looking you may need to clean the tank.
i have a feeling its not gonna be to hard to trouble shoot your issues good luck. i've seen new wires fail out of the box. hope it's something simple good luck.
if your gas cap is bad there could be water in the tank but i'm leaning toward a spark issue. also a good mech. can check your fuel and emmissions pressures. if your tank filter is funny looking you may need to clean the tank.
i have a feeling its not gonna be to hard to trouble shoot your issues good luck. i've seen new wires fail out of the box. hope it's something simple good luck.
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From: Portland, OR
Yeah, I replaced the plug wires after retiming with no change in performance. Checked all vacume lines and relaced ones that looked or felt tired. She feels like the spark is advancing without corrosponding delivery of fuel, hench my original diagnosis,,,fuel pump. I order a reman dizzy this AM. I'll feel better with a new one anyway. I early on decided that she would be a keeper. Better safe than sorry.
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
leave the doghouse off, and connect a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, have a friend monitor the fuel pressure under load when the vehicle is pining. should hold to 35 psi. you might have a bad fuel pressure regulator or as you originally thought, insufficent fuel delivery.
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From: Portland, OR
OK, I just finished installing a new(rebuilt) distributor with a new ICM, and while I was at it, a new fuel pressure regulator. and just for good measure a new cap and roater. Still same problem. Next step is hooking up a fuel pressure guage. I'll keep you all posted on the results when I can find one to borrow.