won't start
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won't start
I was driveing home and my 88 ford ranger with a 2.3.quit running right in the middle of the intersection. I tried starting several times til I had to push it into a parking lot.
Here is what I tried so far The fuel pump is working fine I do have gas in the truck but I have no spark. I've been watching the the other replies on the no start issues but I'm finding no answer but since this is my first time on this site I thought I would add my problem to the haystack.
Here is what I tried so far The fuel pump is working fine I do have gas in the truck but I have no spark. I've been watching the the other replies on the no start issues but I'm finding no answer but since this is my first time on this site I thought I would add my problem to the haystack.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 87
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From: St.Paul, MN
There are square relays that can sometimes be trouble...located under hood either in fuse box or in a separate "box" nearby. I was told to give each a whack and try...I was also told to swap the EEC one for another (it would be great if you had ac and could swap that one in there. Your fuel relay must work and besides, if that went I doubt you would have had such an abrupt "shut down".
You supposedly can borrow a device to read codes (pull codes) and that displays numbers. Great if you have a code guide and great if the condition actually "set" a code.
If that Ranger has a distributor, I would check it and it's module...the 96 I worked on did not but I saw plenty on older stuff w/distributor. Don't know cost on module...you can check online at www.partsamerica.com
There are tech tips ("second" read first post by KEN00 as you log on to the ranger Bseries forum.)..lots of stuff covered...with pics...find that spot and read.
You supposedly can borrow a device to read codes (pull codes) and that displays numbers. Great if you have a code guide and great if the condition actually "set" a code.
If that Ranger has a distributor, I would check it and it's module...the 96 I worked on did not but I saw plenty on older stuff w/distributor. Don't know cost on module...you can check online at www.partsamerica.com
There are tech tips ("second" read first post by KEN00 as you log on to the ranger Bseries forum.)..lots of stuff covered...with pics...find that spot and read.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 87
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From: St.Paul, MN
Check the coil output...are you getting spark TO the distributor? Replug that coil wire well.
If you are, pull Distributor cap and check the rotor...is the copper contact still in place? If broken off, a new rotor is $5 (Niehof FF53)
If no spark FROM coil, check the primary wire to it (+) terminal...follow it back...any breaks?...shake the wire as it may have a break beneath the insulation. You can also jumper a wire direct to the (+) terminal on coil from(+) terminal on battery thus taking that original wire out of the loop. If it starts now, fault is in primary wire...find and repair break.
If still no go and you have good juice to coil...and no spark out. swap in known good 12v coil and try it. If it starts now, your coil bad. This by the way is unlikely but had to say it.
NO spark ...well then your timing belt is not the problem...you would have spark if it jumped a notch...just at the wrong time. I guess those belts (front of engine under black cover) should be replaced at 80M....have heard of them going much longer...and it's not your problem this time.
Inspect all wires for breaks, loose or missing insulation, chafing spots (use good tape) and yes, crawl underneath and look UP.
Did you read Ken's technical pages?...a collection of old forum stuff.
Reply with what was done and results so all can learn...Thanks
If you are, pull Distributor cap and check the rotor...is the copper contact still in place? If broken off, a new rotor is $5 (Niehof FF53)
If no spark FROM coil, check the primary wire to it (+) terminal...follow it back...any breaks?...shake the wire as it may have a break beneath the insulation. You can also jumper a wire direct to the (+) terminal on coil from(+) terminal on battery thus taking that original wire out of the loop. If it starts now, fault is in primary wire...find and repair break.
If still no go and you have good juice to coil...and no spark out. swap in known good 12v coil and try it. If it starts now, your coil bad. This by the way is unlikely but had to say it.
NO spark ...well then your timing belt is not the problem...you would have spark if it jumped a notch...just at the wrong time. I guess those belts (front of engine under black cover) should be replaced at 80M....have heard of them going much longer...and it's not your problem this time.
Inspect all wires for breaks, loose or missing insulation, chafing spots (use good tape) and yes, crawl underneath and look UP.
Did you read Ken's technical pages?...a collection of old forum stuff.
Reply with what was done and results so all can learn...Thanks
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 87
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From: St.Paul, MN
I mentioned a module...what I really was thinking of was the pickup assembly. Go to Ignition parts section of www.parttsamerica.com with your 88 2.3 liter and there is a picture with a couple of the brands offered.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: 3rd Rock
Originally Posted by chitty
I was driveing home and my 88 ford ranger with a 2.3.quit running right in the middle of the intersection. I tried starting several times til I had to push it into a parking lot.
Here is what I tried so far The fuel pump is working fine I do have gas in the truck but I have no spark. I've been watching the the other replies on the no start issues but I'm finding no answer but since this is my first time on this site I thought I would add my problem to the haystack.
Here is what I tried so far The fuel pump is working fine I do have gas in the truck but I have no spark. I've been watching the the other replies on the no start issues but I'm finding no answer but since this is my first time on this site I thought I would add my problem to the haystack.
Enjoy FTE
we are happy to have you on board!~
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Joined: Jan 2005
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same thing with my 92
I was rolling up to a stop light, and my truck just died on me. Same situation, no spark, on the intake side. (I have the 8 plug, DIS ignition). So i checked the coil pack that provides spark to those 4 spark plugs (intake side) and it was good. I replaced my DIS control module, and still nothing. When i crank it over, it sounded like a dead engine. Checked compression, and there is no compression on any cylinder. I dont know if my problem is EXACTLY like chitty's, but either way, anyone got any suggestions? I was thinking timing belt??
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,562
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From: South Jersey
Cowboy, I would pull the codes and see if the valve train is turning, sounds like the timing belt broke and the valves are open.
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still working on problem
Here is what I have done so far, I had the ignition module tested at advanced auto parts and it was bad. So I bought a new one, after I hooked it up I am now getting spark but still no start.I going back to to clean/replace wires. I will keep posted on what happens with this.
Chitty
Chitty
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mtgrzlyman
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Jan 7, 2011 04:27 PM