M.A.F. Cleaning.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Metro Detroit
M.A.F. Cleaning.
Good morning. After reading the information supplied in "read here first", on thr subject of m.a.f cleaning, I went ahead and took it apart, including the negative cable disconnect. Everything went well, actually better than well because there was crap on one of the filaments. I was never happier, because sometimes the stuff I do to my vehicles is just for things to do. To find an abnormality lifted my spirits tremendously.
To finish the question; There was white matter between the m.a.f. and the mounting surface. Not knowing, I put heat sink salve there. Was I correct?
To finish the question; There was white matter between the m.a.f. and the mounting surface. Not knowing, I put heat sink salve there. Was I correct?
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Metro Detroit
Thanks. I didn't want to stop the electrical connection. The original problem was that when I first start it it stalls, then I start it and it's fine. Nothing to make the national news, but annoying. That was yesterday, so in order to make it a good test, I've waited overnight. It has now been overnight, and although it's Michigan, and it's only 6 degrees..I go now to be with My Ranger
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Connecticut
Heat sink grease will act to draw the heat away from the MAF sensor electronics, which would seem to be a good idea to me, keeping in mind how the MAF operates ("hot wire" design). There was a recent thread in fact about the MAF actually cooking some wires:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=320943
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=320943
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Mountain Pass
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Rockledge: Along these same lines.......I too had a look at the tech sticky at the top of the page and tried to clean my MAF. I am having a slight lean condition or bog and it was suggested that I clean the MAF. Anyway, I looked at your thread and the photo of where the MAF is. I have a 95 4.0L and it doesn't look like the photo. I took apart a similar looking sensor (held on with 2 screws, wire harness). This was located just upstream from the IAC sensor. When I took it apart it did not look like anything with 2 fillaments. After taking off the plastic housing there was a little slotted thing inside. The way it went together, it appeared that whatever module I took off turned the slotted thing. I didn't touch it any further and put it back together. Further up stream there was another harness, I unplugged it and pulled out the sensor, it looked like a little orange single fillament or something of that nature, definately not a MAF. There is yet another wire harness right in the air filter box, I've yet to take that apart. Was the first thing I took apart actually the MAF??
Any help would be great, because I'm stumped.....again....
Any help would be great, because I'm stumped.....again....
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I think is time to clean the Maf sensor in my 2.3l ranger??
it has 140k miles, and I never clean it, I read the technical help section, and they said
to clean it w/carb cleaner or gum out I think??, I personal think that carb cleaner
can damage this sensor, this cleaner it's very strong for plastic and thin metalic wires,
I wonder if brake cleaner maybe better and safer?? I know for sure it dries faster and
doesn't live an oily residue, and it safer on plastic, that's my cheaper choise, or I
can go to an electronic store parts, and they sell a can of special cleaner to use on
circuit boards, very safe noncunductive, for $ 12 a can not so cheap.
El conquistador: you can buy a small tube of heat sink paste in electronic stores
it's the same staff they use for audio amplifiers transistors.
it has 140k miles, and I never clean it, I read the technical help section, and they said
to clean it w/carb cleaner or gum out I think??, I personal think that carb cleaner
can damage this sensor, this cleaner it's very strong for plastic and thin metalic wires,
I wonder if brake cleaner maybe better and safer?? I know for sure it dries faster and
doesn't live an oily residue, and it safer on plastic, that's my cheaper choise, or I
can go to an electronic store parts, and they sell a can of special cleaner to use on
circuit boards, very safe noncunductive, for $ 12 a can not so cheap.
El conquistador: you can buy a small tube of heat sink paste in electronic stores
it's the same staff they use for audio amplifiers transistors.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Metro Detroit
Great news. The small but annoying problem, (you start it it stalls, then start it and it's fine), is gone. And as a bonus, another one is gone too. It's the one that seems like you've gone "over center" with the throttle blade at full throttle. I know everyone knows what I mean. It was almost better to let up a little. Gone to the delete file. Click!
And by the way. The manual doesn't say anything about either heat sink stuff or the other electrical grease. Some old stuff was there dried up and I could see it. There didn't seem to be any benefit of transfering a ground, because I couldn't see a ground, only plastic.
And by the way. The manual doesn't say anything about either heat sink stuff or the other electrical grease. Some old stuff was there dried up and I could see it. There didn't seem to be any benefit of transfering a ground, because I couldn't see a ground, only plastic.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2003
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As it turns out, after reading my Haynes manual, the first thing I took apart was the TPS. The second thing with the orange "fillament" was dirty, so I cleaned it, but it still didn't look anything like the dual fillament MAF in the photos. There is a fairly large wire harness plug that goes into the air filter box, but when I unplug it I can only see the prongs that plug into the harness. Is it possible that my 95 would have a different type of MAF, a single filament type?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by stupid red ranger
There is a fairly large wire harness plug that goes into the air filter box, but when I unplug it I can only see the prongs that plug into the harness.