Phydeaux88, the SES light with the clamp is pretty common and not a problem. If you scan your codes you probably have a ICP out of range code stored. This is basically how the mod works, but in some situations the ICP gives a very low pressure reading to the computer, causing the light. The clamp causes the computer to always see low ICP pressure, thats how you get the extra oil pressure, but sometimes the pressure reading is so low it is outside of Fords pre-set range so you get the light, when actually you have more oil pressure then you need.

 

89Ford73, yes you could say the guys over on TDS are wound a little tighter then us laid back easy going guys here at FTE, but TDS is still a great info source, and everyone from that site I have met in person are very nice. Just have to know how to talk to them I guess.

 

thanks for the info on the idiot light, how do you clear the code, and does it make the truck go into a limp mode when it sets the code?? or do you just leave it be and it fixes itself? and i'm sure there are plenty of nice people over at tds, but i'd like to meet about 5 of them people in person and unwind em' a little. thank ya'll for bein nice over here, i have got a lot of great info from this site.

 

I just let the light reset itself, it never stays on for more then 15 seconds, and never seems to effect performance.

 

Mine must have been outside of fords "safe" parameters, cuz every time I flipped the switch on, it idled differentso I knew it was working, and if you would stand on it, it would trip a light and then it wouldn't rev, just idle funny and barely move. so I had to shut it off, then restart and that would fix it until next time you stood on it, then same thing, so I removed it. just one more opinion to consider.


Diesel Rod

 

ok, so it does go into a sort of safe mode, but this can be fixed by shutting the truck off and then restarting. interesting, what exactly were the resistors-diodes that you used, or do you remember? it sounds like it could be fun at least for a while. and i am up for trying all different combos of resistors and diodes or whatever you could do to play with it and see where I like it the best. thanks for elaborating on why you took the clamp off.

 

I had a link to it but I can't seem to find it, I know i had to cut one wire to the ipr, and put a resisitor inline, then run a wire from that resistor into the cab, with three diode's in series, and one more resisitor, then I had it switched to ground, so I could shut it off anytime.

If anyone knows the name, or has the link please chime in, cuz I have lost it.


DIesel Rod

 

SO..... How is this project coming, its been awhile since we all heard from you and I was just curios as to what happened. what you did and how it turned out.


Diesel Rod

 

well, i don't think it is going to happen because his transmission is starting to slip now. e4od's are junk, i will never own a truck with one. i promise that!!!

 

i beg to differ man, i got 209,000 miles on my stock e4od with no leaks no remanufactured products and no slippin and i dog the s*** out of it

 

Yea me too, has 202,600 on original, The two other guys I know that have PSD's there tranny's shift real slow in first gear, kinda feel like they are holding it real long, and same with third, rev out real far. Sonix Valve and tricumulator should fix it.


Diesel Rod

 

that's kool, i'm just saying that you can keep the auto's. my uncles 95 has 220,000 miles on it and i dunno if the tranny has been out yet or not, but i do know that it hasn't been out since he has had it. he has had it for the last 100,000 or so. it kicks out of gear and the light starts flashing every once in a while, but thats nothing internal, it just electronics going south. i would probably have an e4od if i had a lot of money and it was converted to totally manual shift with hellacious line pressure and oversized, extra holding power clutches with a HUGE tranny oil cooler or two. that would be the only way, and if i ever burned that up, then i would go to a zf-5, the auto would only get one chance. "behind a diesel that is" i believe you when you say you got a good e40d with many many miles, but i have seen far too many burn up before their time

 

ok, i got the clamp mod done, and yes it does make a big difference in ower, not a lot of smoke, but still more than stock. tires spin WAY easier with this mod. i tried the constant 20 psi and it just killed horsepower bigtime... i don't know why but it did, so i tried a steady 10 psi and ran a little better, but not as good as with it plugged in like it goes. i still need to hook guages up. and yes the c.e. light does come on like Phydeaux88 says. does anyone know that when the light comes on, does that mean that it's about time to let off or what? about where is the exhaust temp when you'r light comes on?? and does it always read about the same temp when the light come on? how hot will the egt's get with this mod? ok, i found a few websites, http://www.forgotton.net/mods/clampframe.html
http://www.angelfire.com/mi3/servo/tips/atips.html
http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html
i am going to try the eot mod today and see if it smokes a little more! and hook a guage up to it, and if it is making about 20-22 psi boost, then i am going to install a sort of boost fooler "still have to build it" and see if i can get a couple more psi out of it. the truck needs a posi in the worst way alredy!!!! wait till i see if i can't get a littel more power out of it. i'm sorry about not having guages, but it just costs more money than i got...

 

ok, i dunno what sensor it was, but it was right beside the icp sensor. had 2 wiers coming out of it, so i thought "what the heck" and spliced in a 4.1k resistor, i noticed a difference in black smoke when you just floor it in neutral. but not much increase in power. could this be the eot sensor? the reason i did this is because i couldn't find any other sensor that looked like it could be the eot sensor?? if it's not, then what is it and where exactly is the eot sensor? i know when i advanced the timing on my i.d.i. it made a lot more black smoke w/o turning the fuel up any. they say it is safe for an auto if you splice into the eot sensor wire instead of just unplugging it and stabbing the resister in the place of the sensor. but i don't know what the resistance is plugged in right versus 4.1k and what the resistance is plugged in with a 4.1 spliced versus 4.1... does that make sense?? and i just heard of another mod called the hot foot mod. sounds like a winner to me!! it makes the voltage higher coming from the tps to 6 volts instead of the stock 5 volts. (6 is as high as you can go) i love making the ol; power stroke into a power choke-smoke!!!!! i LOVE choke smoke, if you don't believe me just take a look at my pics!!

 

I am sure you read that from me that they max out at 6 volts. I can't quote that cuz I have never measured it. I just read it somewhere. I like to use an ohm meter to find out where the rheostat maxes out at, where it starts to send a reading, pretty much did my entire mod based off of ohm readings, seamed more accurate to me. and easier to do, since it was off the truck.


Diesel Rod