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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 05:59 PM
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It's Cooollld!!

OK, someone help me out. I admit I still have the idiot gauge that Ford uses, but let me explain my problem. My truck will simply not get hot enough.
We had a cold snap like everyone else, -20 F. Truck showed the temp was not quite to the "N". Tried a weatherfront, no help. Changed the thermostat using one from the Ford Dealer, made sure the bypass in the gooseneck is free, still no help. Hold your hand over the defroster vent, lukewarm at best. Anyone else had a similar problem??
 
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 06:20 PM
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Mine gets just about to the "n". But I get heat. Of course it is above zero not below it here. Check the temp of the radiator. If the water gets hot, maybe you have a heater core problem. How about your controls? Are they working ok? If it was -20 here, I wouldn't even go out. Good luck. I hope it gets warmer instead of colder.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 07:03 PM
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make sure there isnt air in the heater line. and make sure the controls are moving the valves all the way.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 07:06 PM
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of the 3 that i have they all put out good heat but it sounds like yer not really getting warm enough i'd feel the radiator like the other reply said if it's getting good and warm start looking at temp controls or a heater core restriction if it ain't hot i'd look at putting a hotter thermostat in it aftermarket as for the -20 i know the feeling -21 last night here and it took foreever to get the crewcab warmed up as a last ditch "emergency" fix for the cold temps i have put a piece of cardboard over about 1/2 the radiator before BUT WATCH THE TEMP GAUGE CLOSELY and at the first sign of overheat pull it out
 
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 07:39 PM
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Remember when you cover the radiator completely, you are also covering the trans cooler. Be careful not to overheat the transmission. It could be costly.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 07:58 PM
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tis true didn't know if it was an auto or a stick and if he was smart and it was an auto he'd have a external trans cooler and a trans temp gauge best 100$ investment for an auto cause rebuilds on a e4od can get expensive real fast
 
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 08:00 PM
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p.s. thanks for the kick in the pants trike i type before thinking sometimes
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 01:02 AM
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i had a simlar prob on one of my cars did all the same stuff in the end it was a pluged heater core i hooked up the garden hose to it and no water came out changed sides and you should have seen the crud that came out i reversed it afew times and then hooked it back up and wala i had heat i hope this helps you and

merry chirstmas and have a good new year
butch
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 03:58 AM
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also make sure your blend door is closed all the way
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 05:10 AM
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I don't know if he has auto or stick. I was just throwing out a reminder. I just had trouble with my trans because it overheated. Have a good new year all. And may the temperatures get warmer (atleast for those of us who hate the cold) and the fuel get cheaper.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 10:07 AM
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Are the hoses to the heater core getting hot?
If so I bet there is some leaves or the like blocking the blend door from closing all the way.

If not then I would go with the blocked heater core.

On my 86 the heater core has no valve, the blend door is all that controls the temp of the air out of the heater.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 08:01 PM
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From: clyde,ny
mine did that on this last cold snap,mine wouldnt get above the "N" in normal,mine usally runs at about the "O" in normal.thought there was somthing wrong but the next two days where above freezing and all was well.
you have to think about it this way,these trucks are made to pull loads and stay cool while doing it.when your just driving around empty that radiator is alot of area to heat up.
i to have a weather front but its one of those snap in kinds,and because of the plow frame i cant get the center ones in,so i have a big hole in front.going to get a fabric style from cabelas.
anyway i would check the heater core.
 
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