Rear end
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Rear end
I have a 1995 F-150 with an I6 and 5 speed manual transmission, 2wd. Has anyone had any experience with installing a posi-track or limited slip rear end on this truck? I need this truck to do just a little better in the winter weather or I'm going to have to get rid of it.
Also,
These are the numbers listed on my diff. Can anyone tell me what the ratio is?
S83865
3 08 88 5A23
Thanks
Also,
These are the numbers listed on my diff. Can anyone tell me what the ratio is?
S83865
3 08 88 5A23
Thanks
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Westmont N.J.
traction
I put a 55 gallon drum in the bed of the truck on a modified pallet. When I put the drum in the back of the truck its empty, then I fill it with water, when I need to remove the drum, I empty it out. I place it between the wheel openings centered over the axle.
The pallet is to prevent the drum from moving and rolling around.
The pallet is to prevent the drum from moving and rolling around.
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I try to add several hundred punds as well. Usually in the form of snow since it is the snow and ice that are the problem. Doesn't help that much though...maybe I just need more. My measure of traction performance is wheather or not I can make it up my not-very-steep drive way...I usually can't unless I get a run for it. It was especially funny to watch me tie my wife's mini van to my truck this spring to pull it out of the wet grass in my back yard. Would have been a little embarssing if someone would have seen me.
Any way,
If someone has any experiece with a limited slip rear end on a 2wd truck, I'd like to hear about it.
Thanks
Any way,
If someone has any experiece with a limited slip rear end on a 2wd truck, I'd like to hear about it.
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Cheyenne Wy.
Limited slip diffs work, and are available. But also remember that simply good snow tires make a huge difference as well. Studded, if you can run them, are better on ice. No matter how good the differential is, it won't do any good if there is no connection with the ground.
I keep mine on a couple of spare rims, changing them out in the winter is easy. And it is AMAZING the difference it makes when I remember right after the first snow to put them on
Jim
I keep mine on a couple of spare rims, changing them out in the winter is easy. And it is AMAZING the difference it makes when I remember right after the first snow to put them on
Jim
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From: Bored town OH
for winter i'd go with a open differentual, open is harder to kick sideways in snow, but its understandable, it would be harder to get stuck with a limited slip, but you should really add weight in the bed, and snowtires help a lot. some guys were saying 7 80lb sand bags is good for weight. Id get snow tires, the bags of sand, and keep the open differentual, since its harder to kick sideways.
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Thanks,
I have noticed that when I do spin that it keeps lined up pretty good. I guess in that sense I've never really been worried about spinning out of control in traffic. It's ussually just that I can't get going.
I have noticed that when I do spin that it keeps lined up pretty good. I guess in that sense I've never really been worried about spinning out of control in traffic. It's ussually just that I can't get going.
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From: Kalispell, MT
add the sand bags right between the wheel wells in your bed, as that's the best spot to add weight, right over the wheels, and try to keep your foot outta the gas, because as soon as you break traction, that's when it takes forever to get moving....let the truck lug itself into forward motion with minimal throttle...i spent a whole winter running a 83 f-250 2wd w/ bald summer tires, and from nov. till april with no effective master cylinder (took me that long to afford the work it took to figger out the problem...)
MontanaFord
MontanaFord
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From: Remsen, NY
Originally Posted by mavinwy
Limited slip diffs work, and are available. But also remember that simply good snow tires make a huge difference as well. Studded, if you can run them, are better on ice. No matter how good the differential is, it won't do any good if there is no connection with the ground.
I keep mine on a couple of spare rims, changing them out in the winter is easy. And it is AMAZING the difference it makes when I remember right after the first snow to put them on
Jim
I keep mine on a couple of spare rims, changing them out in the winter is easy. And it is AMAZING the difference it makes when I remember right after the first snow to put them on
Jim
I've seen the thing about the trac-lock making the rear end slide out easier. My opinion is that you either have 4x4 if you're going to have trac-loc or an open diff without 4x4. Trac-loc 4x2 is a little scary to me. If you have 4x4 with trac-lock the front is helping out too in slippery places and you don't have as much tendency to kick the back out.
Last edited by gatesj; Dec 27, 2004 at 03:39 PM.
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If you're adding weight to the rear end, you gain better leverage (more effective weight on the rear wheels) by placing the weight as far back in the truck as you can. Heck, put it on the tailgate if you can keep it from sliding off.
Putting the weight forward (even over the rear wheels) places some of the wight on the front wheels. That's why hooking a trailer to the bumper makes the rear end sag more than using a 5th wheel hitch over the wheels.
Use sand bags, that way if you're having difficulty on ice, break open a bag and spread it in front of the wheels for added traction.
Putting the weight forward (even over the rear wheels) places some of the wight on the front wheels. That's why hooking a trailer to the bumper makes the rear end sag more than using a 5th wheel hitch over the wheels.
Use sand bags, that way if you're having difficulty on ice, break open a bag and spread it in front of the wheels for added traction.
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It's true that putting the weight as far back as possible will act as a lever to put more weight on the rear axle, but it will also act like a lever to swing the rear around if things go wrong. Over the axle is the safest, if not the most effective.
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Thanks.
The weather is holding off for now. I think I'll ramp the weight up to about 750. And I do move some of the weight twards the tailgate. My fear is that too much weight near the gate actually starts to shift weight off of the front wheels. I had a load of bricks on a pallet (800 lbs) slide to the back of the bed a few years ago. On dry pavment on a sunny day it became a very interesting drive. It was like there was delay in the steering. Point is...be carfull putting weight too far back.
Thanks for all the input. I guess limited slip is out of the picture.
The weather is holding off for now. I think I'll ramp the weight up to about 750. And I do move some of the weight twards the tailgate. My fear is that too much weight near the gate actually starts to shift weight off of the front wheels. I had a load of bricks on a pallet (800 lbs) slide to the back of the bed a few years ago. On dry pavment on a sunny day it became a very interesting drive. It was like there was delay in the steering. Point is...be carfull putting weight too far back.
Thanks for all the input. I guess limited slip is out of the picture.
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From: Remsen, NY
A 4x4 conversion is possible but not simple. You need a 4x4 front end TTB assembly that is the same ratio as your rear end, front driveshaft, transfer case, shorter rear driveshaft(s), and a 4x4 version of your transmission or pay someone to convert yours to the right tailshaft. You need a 3.08 front end obviously, it may be hard to find and you may have to wind up replacing the rear end to match the more common 3.55 front end. You can pick a rear end with trac-loc while you're at it. It is a pretty major thing but if your truck is in really nice shape it might be worth it. Everything just bolts right up on your truck from a donor 4x4 truck and it has been done by a fair number of people on here.