I just looked over at that fuel setup you mentioned, the one from BDP, looks pretty good.


Sound like your gunna have a pretty sweet set up. I wanna do a chip and/ or propane first. realy should get a downpipe too. I already have an intercooler. I bought it off ebay this summer, just haven't installed it yet, dont realy want the extra turbo lag, and I figured if I start haveing EGT issues with a chip I will prolly build a water injection set up before i put the intercooler on.

mine is an auto, so I will have to buy a BTS once all the mods ae done, the stocker will prolly puke.


hey quad. now that you have all this HP are you having any traction issues. I thought you had a Limit Slip. mine is open which is SSSOOO insanly crappy. but even now I have a SERIOUS traction problem, from a dead stop if I just stomp it, it will one wheel forever, and I get toasted at the light, not cool. I was just wondering how you keep the power to the ground.


Diesel Rod

 

Definetly do the down pipe FIRST -- BEFORE THE CHIP -- It will help your EGT quite a bit. If you want to avoid having to reburn the chip then do chip and propane together. The turbo lag caused by an intercooler you are concerned about is not such a big issue if you go to the 1.0 turbo body

 

I have a limited slip rear end, and I'm running 35"X12.50"X16.5" tires, so there's a lot of rubber on the road. I'm also babying the tranny, trying to keep it alive until I'm ready for a BTS.

 

im running michelin 265/75-16 xtr's and i havent had a traction problem it hooks up good, well i bet thats theprobably 800-1000lbs worth the tools and materials back there.....yeah trucks definately gonna be set up when its all done just a long process, be alot faster if my wallet was more willing!!

 

Quad I dont know how you cna have all that stuff and baby the tranny??? must have alot of will power, more then me,

I have 285-75/16 BFGoodriches right no wand they were pretty bad, the Bridgestone Dueler's I ran for the first winter were good, getting a set of Geolanders put on Tuesday, they were fairly cheap, and looked like they had some pretty good tread to them, so we wil see.

Yea I should get a down pipe, but its like chip, downpipe. it all revolves around money, and I have to pay the insurance FIRST before I can even think about more mods, so that puts the first half of Januray out of the question for buying stuff.

From what Quad said earlier about the downside to the 1.0 housing I will have to do some more investigating on that first, and even then I still will prolly do Water injection before the intercooler, just more stuff to take up room in an already cramped engine bay, and more stuff to blow apart, so still undecided.


Diesel Rod

 

Cookie is the local expert on water injection, so temper anything I say by getting verification from him..... To me, water injection doesn't seem like the way to go. It doesn't start to operate until you're at 15psi boost. By then, the temps have risen enough that I'd prefer something that starts controlling the EGT's at a lower boost level. There are a lot of times that the EGT's start rising when you're still well below 15psi. Also, the ability to carry enough water to operate the system is a problem.
To me, babying the tranny is not hammering the throtlle through the gears. I've never let the truck shift at full throttle. I know that would shorten it's life considerably, and I don't want to be forced to replace the tranny until I'm ready. As I'm getting on the freeway, I'll mash the throttle once the torque convertor locks, but ease up as it's getting ready to shift into overdrive. Once there, I'm back on the throttle again.

 

quad,

Do you tow? Is it safe to use the pane while towing?

 

The main reason I am installing propane is to make towing easier and I believe that was Quads initial goal.

 

Exactly right, Phydeaux88! I've been building my truck to tow a large 5th wheel. and I have some experience towing with the propane already. Propane burns slightly cooler than #2 diesel, so towing with the propane on gives additional power, and keeps the EGT's lower than they would have been with straight #2. Of course, since the boost levels are higher when towing, the system needs to be adjusted slightly for that purpose, but that's only a two minute exercise.

 

SO... This was kinda getting lost in the cowbwebs and I have a few more questions. Hopefully Cookie will Chime in to a few of them. here is the deal.

[QUOTE=Quadzilla]Cookie is the local expert on water injection, so temper anything I say by getting verification from him..... To me, water injection doesn't seem like the way to go. It doesn't start to operate until you're at 15psi boost. By then, the temps have risen enough that I'd prefer something that starts controlling the EGT's at a lower boost level. There are a lot of times that the EGT's start rising when you're still well below 15psi. Also, the ability to carry enough water to operate the system is a problem. QUOTE]

I was running this all around in my head this past week at work while I was stuck there for 60 hour last week!!!!! First off my truck will never pull anything, no fiver's, no goosenecks, just me, down the track and the steel sled down the track, and the occasional weekend street drag, so keep that in mind. The advantage of the 1.0 A/R housing is it will lower the boost curve, which to me seems like a plus, because like Quad said, the 'pane comes on sooner, which I will have before febuary, also I am stuck on water/methane injection, which is also boost controlled, at (please answer Cookie) around 15 psi. Now on the way home today I did a lil test, dead stop, up hill, converter locked at 5MPH, in first I could hit 16 psi@ 600* in second 18 psi@ 800* and in third 20 psi@ 1100*, the 'pane and a chip would alter the results, but this is my thinking.

Water needs to be injected BEFORE the EGT's become a problem, and right now I am able to hit 15 psi before they are a problem, maybe with a chip they will be an issue, but I am thinking that with the 1.0 A/R housing, propane, and a chip I could hit that magic Water Injection point before they are out of control. I am willing to sacrafice top end boost If I can make up for it in low end, by injecting water and 'Pane sooner. Do you guys follow my train of thought here, and If Cookie could Chime in that would be GREAT.


Diesel Rod

 

Then I'd advise against a 1.0AR housing. The trade off with a 1.0AR housing is this: you get more boost throughout the bottom 90% of the throttle, but at the expense of the top 10%. If your intended purpose is pull sleds, you'd want maximum airflow at high rpm. You might want to go the other way, and get a bigger turbo, rather than a smaller housing. I'd recommend a big turbo, and huge injectors. That's what I'd do.

 

Realy??? I can see the need for maximum air flow at higher rpm's, I must still be thinking of this in the wrong way. I am after the faster spooling, which I assumed the 1.0 housing would do, which would result in hitting those numbers required to inject water and propane sooner, but you think the trade off of losing the top end wouldn't be worth it in allowing me to spool quicker, and build boost faster in the lower rpm's??? I just ordered a down pipe, and the 'pane will be Febuary's install project. I guess I will have to see how the truck reacts to these and keep experimenting as I go. I just figured the housing was fairly cheap and easy could be worth a shot, but maybe I will hold off on that for a while.
Thanks Quad!!!!

Diesel Rod

 

You might have seen this 444dieselrod, but if you are wanting to pull sleds, then here is what you need to do!

 

Dieselrod-
I'm not a sled puller, so I'm basing my judgement on the assumption that you're hitting big boost and rpm numbers when pulling. For that reason, I'd think you'd want the biggest turbo available for the top end. Granted, the 1.0AR housing would give you more boost throughout the midrange, but I'd expect that the trade off at the top end would be too great. You're right, swapping housings isn't very expensive, so you could experiment without it costing you a fortune, so go with what makes sense to you.
However, if I were going to build a truck for pulling sleds, I'd go with bigger injectors and a bigger turbo. Let us know what works best for you.
I didn't build my truck for pulling sleds, but for everyday driving, and pullng a fifth wheel in the future. My goal was to maximize the power in the rpm band up to 2700-2800 rpm. The 1.0AR housing works great for that, but if/when I get bigger injectors, the housing might be swapped out for the stock 1.15AR unit, because big fuel needs big air.

 

Nice pic, who's truck is that? What has all been done to it?