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v8 conversion question

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Old Dec 21, 2004 | 01:45 PM
  #1  
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v8 conversion question

Hey all,im finally gonna take the plundge and throw the 302 in my truck,now would i be better off finding one from a junkyard,and just going out and getting a crate engine? how much woul di be looking at for that? thanks in advance
 
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Old Dec 21, 2004 | 04:14 PM
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winddancer
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From: Howland, ME
And in a related matter..... how hard and what modifications are reqquired to add a 302? I'm thinking about buying one and rebuilding myself. I have big plans for my Baby Bronco. Big plans but a little wallet.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2004 | 11:41 PM
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a good junkyard motor will be in the hundreds of dollars range,a crate will be over 3000.They need a bigger rad and a tranny.made for a v8 like a t5 or c5.Good drive shafts too.I'm not the v8 swap expert just telling you what i know
 
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Old Dec 24, 2004 | 12:06 AM
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Ya know most Explorers with V8's in them will have 90% of the needed parts for your conversion. If you get an early one I think the motor mounts should bolt into the stock location of the originals, since the Explorer was based in a ranger chassis.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 02:34 AM
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Early 90's Mustang convertable engine mounts. Drill two(2)holes in the cross member for the mounts. Swap the right for the left and the left for the right this should put the back of the V8 in the same place as the back of the OEM V6.
You can use the OEM rad if it is a 4 core, move it under the Rad support.
Swap bellhousing from a C4 behind a small V8 onto the OEM C5 from a B2.
no need to cut shafts or move X-case.
Wire ti and fire it. It's not all that hard to do in a weekend if everything is ready to go.

http://www.woodswarriors.homestead.c...s/Dsc01324.jpg

http://www.woodswarriors.homestead.c...s/Dsc01317.jpg
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 04:16 AM
  #6  
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Dont forget a oil filter relocator with outlets on side so that oil lines dont interfere with steering box, and swap headers preferably not cheap ones (you get what you pay for) good radiator (Explorer HD auto trans w/ac) yes it can be done in a weekend if you rush through it but don't bank on drivin your truck to work on Monday morning I have done a couple of these swaps and no two are the same. I have come to the conclusion you get what you pay for I only use the L&L headers and oil filter relocators now I cnat see spending money on the POS other headers that are "supposed to fit for a swap" Guess what THEY DON'T. You can find a bone yard motor for $600 or less I would think I just bought a new FMS crate 5.0HO 365hp last year for just over $3000 yes its kinda pricey but hay its a new motor. Also dont forget you need to modify the heater box, the C-5 will hold up for a little while behind a stock junkyard motor but wont last behind anything with any HP to it. Use a C-4 that is built I'm running a TCI and this thing has been beat like a red headed step child for 5 years now and hasnt skipped a beat. This is all my two cents I'm sure someone will argue some of it if you have anymore ??? look for me at another ranger site as 5.0HORanger and we can answer any other questions. Good luck.....have fun......take your time ......pay attention to details......and you will have something you can be proud of and is reliable. I've driven mine from Maine to MD a few times and VA once.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 01:22 PM
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admiralturbo
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will the stock axles /drive linehold up to a stock 5 liter or will one need explorer axles?Whaty about weight? Is it gonna squish the suspension down.One last thing;hows the mileage with a carbed 5 liter compared to the 2.9.I cant forsee hooking up fuel injection wires and computer to the bronco harness being an easy task
 
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 10:39 AM
  #8  
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the axles will hold up to the power, if you don't believe that than just look at the 1983 Mustang HO they put a 7.5 rear end in them. . . . for some reason
 
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 10:48 PM
  #9  
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I've read that everybody that has done the swap recommends getting the Explorer springs, because they're stiffer, and with the 2.9 in, it raises the B2 about 1.5" - 2" and with the 5.0 in it, it will sit you back down to stock height. The stock driveshaft will work, but most likely it'll bust after a while, it also depends on which style you have.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 11:12 AM
  #10  
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dsldandually
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From: Portland, Maine
the CV shaft will defiantly bite the dust get one with real u-joints the fron axle will last for a while if you dont go with tires bigger than 33's and dont beat on it good luck
 
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 11:15 AM
  #11  
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dirtybroncoii
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From: Michigan
That CV shaft is junk I broke mine 3 time then said screw it and put the drive shaft from a 85 on there works fine. Just make sure you get it rebuilt before you start to hammer on it, that is how i broke my drive shaft from my 85.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 11:19 PM
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RomerB2
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From: Bixby, OK
I have a custom made driveshaft cost me about $650, and only $75 of that was labor, it's nice lol. But it has a guarantee not to break, and if it does I just take it back to him, and he'll make another one for free. His own guarantee.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 08:59 AM
  #13  
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dsldandually
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From: Portland, Maine
Talking

Yeah I usually buy stuff with a guarantee which usually means that there is a guarantee that I'll be back for another one after it gets busted. Bought a set of Warn manual hubs for my Dana 35 and the parts guy said they were guaranteed I told him to hurry up and get another set to stock and said "you will never break these" well with a 345hp V-8 and a heavy foot guess what......you should of seen the look on his face when I brought them back and the right side hub was in a million pieces......cant say I didnt warn him
 
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 06:40 PM
  #14  
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Maybe that's why they're called Warn? lol
 
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