i kept shorting out brand new condensors is it because i am not using a ballast resistor and the only wire coming off the distributer goes to the neg side of the coil right and if i were to use a msd 5a ignition system what is the point of using it with a points system i thought points did not need a ignition module to work i thought it was a one wire hookup or am i wrong.

 

the ballast resistor lowers voltage to the positive side of the coil right i have about 6 volt there so do i need to go any lower on the voltage.

 

anyone with ideas where are you rusty and gtex i need help

 

So are you or are you not running a ballast resistor? I think the correct voltage with the ballast resistor is 9V, haven't checked in a while though.

Also, I'd get it working right before even messing with the MSD box.

Dagnabit now I have to go look...

$#!7 it's cold out there!

Anyway, the way it works is, the wire that comes from the ignition goes to the positive side of the coil, and the distributor wire goes to the negative.

Edit: Do you have your points set right?

 

the voltage at the coil is 6.5 volts i replaced the stock duraspark with a point distributer i think there is a resistor in the line

 

Hrm, that could have something to do with it. They dont work real good if the voltage is too low.

Still, did you set the dwell on your points? Should be around 28 degrees.

 

it is set at 26 with a gap of .017 so is the low voltage whats doing it

i also noticed the coil says for use with electronic ignition but it also shows using the same coil for points and the coil says 12 volts on it can i hook up 12 volts to it

 

Well, I'm at a loss. I've always just ran the points system that came with my truck.

The way I'd proceed is to bypass the ballast resistor and run the full 12V to the system. However, this may not be the correct approach, maybe someone will step in here?

 

when i used a volt meter to see the voltage and hooked the leads up it shows voltage when i hook the postive test probe up to the positive terminal and the battery ground but will not show a voltage when the negative probe is hooked up to the negative terminal on the coil is this why i can't get a spark and can i just ground the neg side of the coil to the cab

 

No. Do not ground anything from the coil.

You measure the voltage across the positive side of the coil, to ground. So one lead is hooked to the positive side of the coil, and the other is hooked to a vehicle ground.

 

ok i got 12.37 volts but still no spark.i checked the condensor and it is fine i just got it today it builds voltage then drops to zero and starts over again when i touch the coil output wire to gtound there is no spark

 

How are you checking to see if it has spark?

 

how should i be checking to see if there is spark

 

Well you could stick your finger on the middle wire coming out of the coil and have someone crank it. Just make sure you're also touching the vehicle somewhere.

No, dont do that. I usually pull the middle wire off the distributor, the one that goes to the coil, and stick a screwdriver in it. Then get the screwdriver real close to a spot on the vehicle where you can look for a spark. Get it approximately the same as a spark plug gap's distance away from it. Then have a friend crank the engine over. Make sure you're not touching anything metal, and watch for a spark.

 

Coils do run on 12 volts, but most will overheat and die if you run 12 volts all the time. On most setups, you get a full 12 volts only when the key is in the start position (give max spark to cranking engine) and then 6 or 7 volts in the run (on) position.