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Looks like I'm finally going to get to close on my secong house soon now that my buyers mortgage has come through. I want to build an addition to the existing garage and need to find out about building costs. I have some very skilled friends, so most of the work will be done by myself and friends, except the slab. I want to build 32'x26' w/loft and a 16'x4' leanto on the backside of the existing garage for the compressor and other storage. (I found plans for what I need on the internet w/build list so that much is easy). What I'm trying to find out is what is the least expensive way to build? standard stick frame? Pole barn? metal prefab? something else? how much additional cost to go 36'x26'. I'm sure there are a few construction workers, remodelers on this board that would have an idea what I'm looking at here. Anyone help me out? Anyone in VA know the sqft percentage around here? I'll have .94 acres with a 800 sqft house and 20'x16' garage, how big could I go?
The first place to go is your local building department. On a lot that size, I would be very surprised if you don't need a permit. They'll tell you how big a structure you can build, where you can build it on your lot and what other inspections will need to be done.
Costs can vary wildly. From my research into building a shed on a slab, the slab and foundation will cost the most.
For what it's worth, I'm finishing up a 44'x28' workshop of my own. I did nearly all the labor, except for the slab. Here's a rough breakdown of my costs so far...
Exc/Footers/block foundation - $3500
Slab - $5000
Lumber/sheet goods - $3000 (WAG. I didn't keep good records here.)
Roof Trusses (14/12 attic, crane raised)- $5000
Shingles (premium arch) - $5000
Doors/windows - $2000
Insulation - $1000
Electrical - $3000
I still need to install siding and finish the interior. I splurged on doors, windows and shingles. Could have cut a couple grand off the cost by going cheaper, but didn't think it was worth it.
I expect to be just over $30k by the time I'm done. Well, "done" might be the wrong word, since I'm already considering adding wideplank pine flooring. (It's a woodworking shop, not an auto shop.)
The first place to go is your local building department. On a lot that size, I would be very surprised if you don't need a permit. .
depending on where your at, you might also need to get a professional engineer to sign of on the plans which can cost several hundred dollars just for that. remember that it is easier to insulate a stick frame then it is a post and beam frame.
depending on where your at, you might also need to get a professional engineer to sign of on the plans which can cost several hundred dollars just for that. remember that it is easier to insulate a stick frame then it is a post and beam frame.
No doubt... considering that's what I do for a living (work for a consulting engineering firm). Your building dept will tell you what you need.
jjshaw: Did you see the latest Fine Woodworking has an article about flooring in a woodshop?
Ditto on checking with local building dept. In Oct 2003 Virginia adopted the 2000 International Building Code, which made for a lot of local changes. (Code book comes out every 3 years). Down here in Stuart, the new code messed me up as I already purchased materials.
jjshaw: Did you see the latest Fine Woodworking has an article about flooring in a woodshop?
Ian,
I got the mag, but haven't read the article. I've got a 9-hour drive tomorrow (home for Christmas), so maybe I'll read it while my wife takes her turn driving.
In-floor heat in my opinion is the only way to heat a shop, auto or otherwise as the floor is always warm to work on and when I wash my truck the floor dries very quickly-as far as costs go I picked up a 150 gallon water heater from my elec company for $50 as long as they were able to put it on peak-load control (which means they can shut it off when they want under heavy use hours), and the tubing I got at a building supply house for like .50 per ft. and I put 2" insulation down cuz she gets a little chilly in Minnesota (-10F this morning) Hooked it up with a circulating pump and pressure tank and presto I got a great shop for working in the winter and to get out of the house when the wife and three daughters are all home at the same time.. I kept my system open not closed and I didn't run any antifreeze in the system just water so the water heater does dual purpose as a floor heater and hot water for canning the veggies in the fall and washing vehicles in the winter and cleaning deer..Total cost for the entire project 24x32 shop was $850.. I did all the labor total install time was 2 really easy days cuz I didn't want to do it twice..Good Luck
The tubing and insulation for in floor hyronic heat has to be laid down before the concrete is poured.
Also in some areas, Wisconsin for one, you cannot run an open system with the heat source serving both domestic hot water and hydronic heat. Also in Wisconsin if a water heater is used as a heat source it must be listed by the mfr as being an allowed use.
I built a 36' x 30' Miracle Truss bulding a couple of years ago. The complete job was $25 per square foot finished which included lights, insulation, 2 8'x10' insulated doors and slab. I just wish I went with a radiant floor heating system as mentioned above. I am running a Hot Dawg propane heater by Modine but the floor is still cold when working under vehcles.
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