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Ok, guys, here's the deal: Finally got the transmission in my '65 put back in, and am ready to fire it up. Might have a few wiring questions (I'll post that in a different thread) but I did connect a remote starter switch to the seloniod so I could watch things from out front. Everything cranks as it should, but I'm not getting any fuel. The truck sat for 4+ years in a field with some duct-tape for a gas cap. When I got it, I poured in 5 gallons of fresh gas, a can of Sea-Foam, and some Stabil. I also put a new cap on. Anyways, when I wasn't getting it to fire, I disconnected the gas line at the carb and cranked the engine. Nothing. Here's the question: do I have a clogged line, a clogged filter, a clogged strainer sock, or a bad fuel pump? Perhaps all of the above, right? I didn't see any filter in the line, nor did I see anything where the line screws into the carb. Would four years of sitting outside cause the diaphram in the pump to rot? Essentials: '65 F100 352 automatic. Thanks.
You may need to manual prime the pump. Pull the inlet line from the tank suck on it, a hand vacum pump works good. once you get fuel to the pump just hook the line back up. then try turning the engine over agin to see if the pump takes up the fuel.
i had to prime the carb a few times to get the ol fuel pump to kick in. once it fired and turned fast enough it ran ok. auto zone has the pump for 20. is it the 1 with the can on the bottom of the pump? if so change out that filter mine was like mush.
Scott, It has been my experence that the fuel pump would have fuel at the carb with a few cranks if it is working.
You can take the line from the tank off at the pump to see if gas will come out (it should). I might blow air back into the tank through this line to make sure it isn't blocked (remove the gas cap first).
Put some gas in a small mouth pop bottle, to pour into the carb. to help get it going.
Have you prepped the cylinders? I would put Marvels mystery oil into each cylinder and turn the engine over until the oil pressure came up to normal (with the plugs out) before I tried to fire it.
You might look for a gas tank switching valve on the floor just to the left of the drivers side seat near the back. Just one guess. Mine sometimes gets kicked halfway between the two and won't deliver any gas. I would check and prime the system by taking the fuel line loose at the carb, running a spare hose from the end to a can, and pressurizing the tank. I usually turn the pressure on my air compressor feed down to 15psi, wrap a rag around the nozzle to seal the tank opening, and push fuel through the system. You should get fuel flow through the system. If not, start disconnecting lines until you do. The duct tape fuel cap worries me. It doesn't take long for gas fumes to dissolve the adhesive and there is no telling if it dissolved, floated somehow to the bottom of the tank, and got stuck in the tank siphon filter. Good Luck.
Did you empty anything out of the tank before you began, it would be a bummer to have water in there too... Does your fuel pump have the big filter canister on it oor is it just the pump? You can use a little compressed air from the fuel pump line back into the tank, that should clear anything out of there. I use a fuel bottle from an RC car as a primer, works nice and doesn't decay...
Gas will flow from the tank from gravity, so priming should not be necessary.
You first need to make sure that gas is getting to the pump. If it is working it will pump it up to the carb with no problems. I don't agree with pressurising the tank. Reverse flow with air is for clearing debris from the line.
Sorry about the long break there--was out of town for a while.
After pulling the hose loose at the pump, there was no fuel, so I hooked up my trusty Mighty-Vac and gave her a little suck. Once the gas started to flow, she really came. Anyways, hooked things back up, cranked the engine a bit, and sure enough, gas at the carb.
Here's the followup question: Is there a special tool to remove that canister on the fuel pump? I figured I should changed the fuel filter, but there isn't a small enough band clamp (like used for oil filters) avaliable to fit around that canister. Maybe a big channel-lock? Thanks guys.
Neal, You can find those rubber strap wrenches that might work. I haven't had a lot of success with them on hard to remove items. The last pump that I purchased came with one of those filter cans on it. I tried to open it to check the filter but couldn't screw it off. I didn't want to ruin the can with a wrench so I skipped it, and installed the pump anyway.
A pair of channel locks will work. Grab the can up near the top where the three dimples are located. Dont squeeze too tight, just tight enough to give a good twist. Make sure you have a new filter on hand because they come with a new rubber seal which you WILL need. You are lucky to have the 352 because the pump is mounted so the sediment falls to the can. The 6 cyl has the pump turned the other way so the sediment falls into the works of the pump. Not good.