Need Wiring Help.
.So, I need the following Locations and/or Colors of wires.
-The '+' For Parking Lights. (In dash somewhere?)
-Wires For Power Lock Switch (what color?)
-The '-' For Horn Switch (steering column?)
-Switched +12V Ignition Wire (steering column?) (must be 0v at key OFF or ACC)
If anyone can lead me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate it.
I wanna try it myself before taking it somewhere. Thanks
At least one vendor (Avital) used to have this online, but it's not there anymore. Perhaps if you searched online, you could find some vendor or other that has it available.
I can give you wire colors, but they are for my 1991 F150. They may have changed in the interim. I can't help you much with finding the "best" place to tap these wires. Remember that this info is worth what you paid for it -- I got it from my alldatadiy.com subscription specific to my 1991 truck.
Door lock motor: Pink with orange stripe = +12 volts to lock, ground to unlock
Pink with black stripe = Ground to lock, +12 volts to unlock
Try the area behind the driver side kick panel
Parking lamps: Brown
This wire runs all over the place. The wire color is an unofficial semi- standard across automakers. Try tapping it near the light switch.
Horn: Dark Blue
If you have cruise control, then you ground the dark blue wire to energize the horn relay and thence the horn.
If you do not have cruise control, then you don't have a horn relay and you connect 12 volts to the dark blue wire to energize the horn.
I'd look near where the wires exit the steering column. There may be two dark blue wires, you need to figure out which wire is the "Input" to the horn switch.
+12 volts. If you really want "hot in run", then go for pink and orange wire off fuse 5
If you want "hot in run or start", then go for the red and yellow wire off fuse 18

Those wires are the same as mine. When I looked at the power locks, sure enough there was pink/orange, pink/black. So, Im guessing all the other ones are the same.
Thanks, I'll post back and see if I got it right
.
As for wiring diagrams, you can always use www.bulldogsecurity.com , they have pretty much every vehicle there and gives you a color and area to get to the wire.
-Chris
Constant 12V+ Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Red/Light Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Red/Light Green Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Gray/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Tan/Yellow Coil
Neutral Safety Wire Not Grounding Switch on Driver's Side of Transmission
Brake Switch Green Brake Switch
Trunk Pin n/a
Parking Lights Brown (+) Light Switch
Head Lamp Red/Yellow (+) Light Switch
Hood Pin n/a
Factory Disarm n/a
Door Trigger Black/Light Blue (+ Light under Dash
Door Lock Pink/Yellow Passenger's Kick Panel
Door Unlock Pink/Light Green Reverse Polarity use Driver's Switch to Test
Horn Wire Dark Blue (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=White/Black, RF=White/Yellow
Windows Down LF=White/Black, RF=Tan/Light Blue
1992-93 Ford F Series Cruise Information
Constant 12V+ Yellow Ignition Switch Harness or Use Hot Side of Brake
Switched 12V+ Red/Light Green Ignition Switch Harness
Ground Use Chassis Near Cruise Control Module
Hot Side of Brake n/a Brake Switch
Cold Side of Brake Green Brake Switch
Tach Tan/Yellow Coil
VSS Lead Gray/Black POS #3 of EEC IV Module Driver's Firewall
Pulses Per Mile 8000 PPM
Notes: Vehicles with Manual Transmission require Clutch Switch. Some vehicles may require a speed signal generator and/or other parts/adapters not listed above. Rostra® Cruise module switch settings may differ if you use a speed signal generator or magnets and a pick up coil.
Trending Topics
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Everything else works, horn, lights.
What is this 'Reverse Polarity'? Could tis be causing the problem?
A discussion of the various door lock sytstems can be found here:
http://www.deannet.com/egd/e_cs2015fm.htm
The Audiovox manual should have gone into this...

Apparently I missed the Wiring options in the manual. I don't really know about relays, but it looks like I need 2. Where and what kind should I get?
http://www.wrenchjock.net/automotive_electronics.htm
The place you bought the alarm should sell suitable relays. They should only cost $8 to $12 each. You need 5 pin relays, with an "87" Normally open contact and an "87a" normally closed contact. 30 amp relays are probably the best choice, though the current rating is overkill, these are the most common and probably cheapest. Get a couple of sockets to go with them.
Alternative sources include Digikey or Mouser or Radio Shack or scrounging in the junk yard.
You may or may not need relays. It depends on the system you are installing. Look at the manual. Some have built-in support for Types A, B, and C. The ones bulldog sells do not need external relays, for example.
www.directwholesale.net sells suitable 30 amp SPDT relays for $3.99 in their "accessories" section.






