Well, Monday I went to 6 different stores looing for relays.

-Radio Shack: Asked for 12v 5-Pin Relays. Guy tries to hand me 110v. As always,Radio Shack's employees don't know anything, but phones.

-Advance Auto:Only had 4 Pin Relays.

-AutoZone: Asked for Relay's, but the guy points to Flashers.

-2nd Advance Auto: Only 4-Pin Relays.

-Napa: Line was Long, Only ONE guy working, answering the phone, and going to the back to get parts. I left.

-O'Reilly: Finally I got the Relay I was Looking for. They only had 1, so I took it.

After a day's worth of going around, I went home. Today after work, I went to Advance Auto and showed them the Relay from O'Reilly's. They had one. Yay.

Those relays werent cheap either, $10.99 at Oreilly, 11.99 Advance. When I got home earlier, it was too dark to go outside, so im leaving it for tomorrow.

Ahh...sorry for the rant/story.

 

I've been pondering how to make a very cheep security system. I don't have electric windows or locks and it is a manual so I don't think I can even have remote start. So my Idea for a security system isnt' one that makes noise out side of the truck really since people don't pay attention to it. I think I am going to make one that has air horns pointed in the truck. From what I can tell anything with a remote can be over run, and normal horns people don't care. a real security system isn't a deterint from what I have seen. So I figure if someone goes in my truck to take the radio they will have just enough time to get in and start to pull the radio when the air horns go off and they may take the radio but their ears will ring for a week.

So what do you guys think?

 

Question: If the Relays are 30AMP, do I have to use a 30AMP fuse? I've blown 2 15AMP and 1 20AMP.... It locks/unlocks, then it blows. Almost there....

 

Turns out that 30AMP fuse does the job. Only driver door locks/unlocks, but hey, I aint complaining....Ahhh,, now to go Make it look neat.

EDIT:
By looking at the diagrams, it looks like I need another relay for both doors to lock/inlock.....Ehhhh, maybe in the future

 

15 is too small, but 30 may be too big. try 20 to be safe. if it keeps blowing then go back to the 30.

To do both locks, or all locks, you need to be in between both switches,and both motors. I found this in the pasinger kick panel. that also put my two relay over there, and away from the main unit. I found a hot wire over there also, only had to run the two control wiers under the dash.

The relay for the dome light went in to the driver side kick panel.

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/pdf/typec.htm

pink/light green =lock
pink/yellow =unlock

some systems let you unlock just the drivers, and the others seperitly.

Sounds like you got it ,and are having fun.

Bob

 

After a while, it hit me..."Passenger door lock/unlock dont work". Kinda makes it useless.

So In the heat of the moment, lol, I Unhooked EVERYTHING, I am returning the relays, that AudioVox POS module is meeting Mr. Aluminum Bat, and I will get a decent keyless system, one with relays ALREADY built in, like a BullDog.

Ahhh, it felt good tearing that up...lol .

 

I put one of these in my '87 4X4 and I also ran into problems with the door locks.. You do have to go to the passenger side to get them to work.. I beat my head on the wall before I got it to work right.. At first the doors worked but the passenger side was so slow that it messed up.After going to the passenger side it all can together.. Also I had the 351 HO with a carburetor and as we know these are made for fuel injection.. I used a bulldog setup with 4 buttons bought a rotating soleniod and hooked it up to the trunk button.. When you push the trunk button it sets the throttle which sets the choke.. If you have to you can hit the trunk button a couple of times and wing the throttle.. It revs up nicely but you don't want to hold the button or it is just like holding down the throttle.. works real well.. Don't get discouraged, it makes for a nice setup.. you can also set them up to operate your windows and even roll them up if it senses rain..
The Thrillseeker

 

I did work on the passenger side. I could make one side work, driver or passenger. But thats it, either or.

Why are these for fuel injection?? Or are you talking about the remote start?

 

Sorry, I was talking about remote start as it had keyless entry in it also..I should have clarified myself.
Thrillseeker

 

93greenf150... The problem you might be having, is incorrect relays or incorrect wiring.

At first, I bought some 5 pin relays, not thinking a company would go and CHANGE the standard relay.

If you have a multimeter, test the relays.
If you have continuity between 87 and 87A, you need to get a different relay. I have found some 5pin relays are simply a 4 pin SPST relay with 2 outputs.
Also, the power door locks should need no more than a 10A fuse. If you are blowing a fuse, neg and pos are meeting, so either your wiring is bad, or you have the incorrect relays.

As for bulldog.... I would have gotten a bulldog if their remotes werent huge and ugly.
I am sure the unit you have will work just fine, you just have to make sure to get it wired correctly.

Also, you only need a total of 2 relays to make this system work. one for locking, and one for unlocking.
The way this system works is the locks rest at ground, and when you push the lock, it lifts the ground and replaces it with +12v.
Easiest way to do all of this, is to go to the passenger side kick panel, find the harness that comes from the door, follow it to near the inertia switch right there....
At some point, there is a plug in connector, unplug it and pull it out so its easy to work on.
door side of the pink/lt grn goes to pin 87A (center pin)
side that goes into the truck (motor side) goes to pin 30.
87A and 30 should have continuity at all times the coil is not activated, which is what allows your factory interior lock switches to stay working with the relays in place.

then simply run a power cable from constant power (yellow in ign harness works great for this) to pins 86 and 87 on both relays. 85 is left for the negative input trigger from your box.

-Chris

 

Yea I thought 30AMP is too big. Oh, well, everything is gone. The AudioVox is scattered into pieces everywhere . Relays are returned, well, except the Advance Auto one, since they can't take back any electrical part that has been installed. How stupid.

All thats left is the small red LED that I installed in the dash. Guess I can make it turn on with the lights or something, lol.

I appreciate the thought though, thanks.