Not worth it IMO. You need to go 35K miles just to recouperate the cost of the oil! Stick with a good oil that you can buy on the shelf at the local auto parts store and you'll save yourself some money and hassle.

 

Thanks for all the replies. All of your posts have answered my questions regarding amsoil. I don't think that I will be trying it, just don't think leaving oil in my truck for that long of a time is a good idea.

 

I'd get the Dino oil and change it at 3K. I've been doing that for a few years. Seems to be fine.

 

I have seen tests on snythetic oils at a major chemical company I reitred from and they all have improved qualities of conventional oil. Amsoil was one on the ones tested along with several others. Another one that tested better was Schaeffer. Which I use. I have to buy it from an local dealer like Amsoil but it is as cheap as the brands in the Wal Mart. However I would not recommend anyone driving more than 5,000 miles on any oil and that is the cheapest thing you can do to make your engine last longer. Curtis

 

Curtis,
The tests you mention, you say they indicated synthetic oils had "improved qualities" over conventional oils.
Were these tests laboratory type tests of virgin oil samples? Or, were the tests actual field tests relying on used oil analysis, engine tear downs, or any other tests indicating how the various oils performed in use (as opposed to in a test tube)?
I'm assuming it is the former rather than the latter, since you mentioned a chemical company.
Thanks!

 

I guess its civil cause I just go there. O_O

Actually..I think we've all harped on Amsoil so much that we really don't "have it in us" to strap on the "flame-o-matic" for just a simple Amsoil question. Just wait till an Amsoil dealer shows up though.

 

I started using Fully Synthetic oil in my 2000 f-150 5.4. I just think it is better.I change the oil every 5k to 6k miles and this offsets the cost of changing every 3k like most everone does these days.I started using it because of an oil sludge/buildup problem Toyota had on the 1mzfe engines they used in there cars in the 90's.I lost 2 engines on two different cars due to this problem.I am thinking that this synthetic oil will not sludge up in the engines.I hope I am right.

 

BrianA The test I was talking about was done on large electric motors that had monitors on them to measure the amount of electricy they used and they used less with the schaeffer than with any other oil and several were tested. I still would not recommend for anyone to use it even though I do. I change my oil the same as I would with any other oil. I pay $3.65 a quart which compares to the Wal Mart brands very well. I know its use is for gasoline and diesel engines but the test at our company only checked for reduced friction and not for the conditions that engines come under. Curtis

 

I am new to this site and have not had time to read all the imformation on oil listed. However I may go out on a limb with this. I think all synthetic oil is petroleum that has had the molecules rearanged some to make it slicker and then has additives added. I sure am not an expert on oil. Enjoy discussing it though. I have a 66 pickup that i am restoring and get a lot of good info off this site. Thanks Curtis

 

Unfortunatly there are a few points to consider!
1.The petroleum companies have the public brain-washed into 2,000 to 3,000 mile changes. Most new cars recomend 5000 miles and climbing. Do you see a trend here? Keeping it clean is the key, so you can change it, or use a synthetic with a high QUALITY filter! Pencil out your costs over 25,000 miles, and don't forget to figure your time, because time is money! And the environmental impact due to unnessecary oil changes.Synthetic will become more cost effective in a higher oil capacity engine.
2.Pour point- Amsoil will still flow at -30 to -40, I would have to assume other synthetics are similar? My truck runs the same at 40 above or 40 below. And as well with 130,000 miles as with 30,000 miles. And I would not be afraid to take it on any length of road trip!
3. Does your oil come with a warrenty? Amsoil does, if it is an oil related failure, Amsiol buys it!
4.Advertising budget-You see Penzoil advertised everywhere, but I sure wouldn't use it!

 

Speaking of brainwashing, it sounds like you have been brainwashed by Scamsoil!!!!

First, if you use an oil is API certified, the vehicle manufacturer's warranty will remain valid. Since most Scamsoil products ARE NOT API certified, they have to be responsible for engine repairs when the vehicle manufacturer
voids the warranty for using a NON API certified oil. Second, if you read the fine print in Scamsoil's warranty, for it to be valid, you have to request it in
writing first!!! And 3rd, as I have previously posted, stay away from ALL MLM companies!!!

Why pay more for an oil that will potentially void your warranty, when there are many API certified oils available that cost a lot less!!

 

I would like to know were you get your information as far as no API rating?

Perhapes you are the one who is brain-washed? You are free to go to the website of any product and educate yourself! It is your choice to waste time and money, but ignorance is no excuse!

 

BH Pete, do you deal Amsoil? Only certain Amsoil oils are API certified. The others are recommended for use by Amsoil in engines requireing... but they are not API certified. Amsoil, for example, does not make a synthetic motor oil for diesels that carries an API certification. All Ford owner's manuals state that you must use a motor oil displaying the API... Using one of Amsoil's motor oils in these vehicles could result in warranty work not being covered. I know of at least one example in the 6.0 PSD forum of someone who was turned away from the service department because they had Amsoil in the truck.

 

Well, break out the flame suits!

BH Pete. The reason eveybody is changing at 3,000 miles is that old habits die hard. When engines were being fed leaded gas, the amount of lead in the oil at 3000 miles was somewhere between 3500-5000 PPMs. That's a lot of contaminates not including the iron which was usually triple digit due to the wear factor of the lead. Nowadays, folks don't need to change that often even with a dino oil. Even Wallyworlds El Cheapo oil will go 5000 miles and have low wear metals. The synthetic blends that Ford calls for in its engines will easily go 5000 miles and performs great even at 7500 miles. And that oil costs less than $1.50. But, old habits die hard.
The pour points that you quote are irrelevant. It is the cold pump rate that is important. Your Amsoil is rated right in with the everyday common dino oils with the cold pump rates. Chevron Supreme 5w-30 is rated at -37f and it costs less than $1.30 at Wallys. It also produces less wear metals especially in the winter. All PAO basestock oils will have elevated wear metals across the board when compared to the dinos.
Amsoil warranty. If you will check with them, they brag that they have never paid a warranty claim. That's pretty easy to understand. They don't warranty their products at all, they just say they do. Nobody in manufacturing is going to produce a 100% product- it ain't gonna happen. Even our beloved Fords turns out a lemon sometimes.
If you are using Amsoil and you are having good results with it- stay with it. I can assure you that you engine will last just as long as someone that changes their cheap dino oil every 5000 miles.
API certification and Amsoil. Amsoil additive packages exclude it from API certification. Amsoil is almost double the limits set by API. Don't make it a bad product, just ain't API certified unless you are buying their XL 7500 which is a Gp III dino oil. And there are absolutely no benefits of running it over another dino like Chevron or others. I'm not saying that Amsoil is a bad product, just that it is not for the average user or driver. Unless you are running long and hard and time is money, it is not cost effective and engine life will not be any longer.
I think it interesting that in the early days of Amzoil, it was an ester based lube. They changed to a PAO basestock that they get from Mobil. The add packs have changed over the years but not a lot. The rest of the oil industry has been growing at a fantastic rate. The premium dinos of just ten years ago won't make grade for El Cheapo oil today. The industry has been very active but the developement of PAO oils has pretty much been static. The Mobil PAO is pretty much the same as it was ten years ago. Formulations have changed, yes, PAO technologies have not. The dinos of today are right on the heels of the synthetics with high performance indexes, add packs, stabilty, NOACK, oxidation rates, etc. I see new things from dino stocks almost daily but not much from the synthetic developers. I'm sure that they will have to get after the program as they are losing ground in sales and we all know what happens when the money issue comes up.

 

Flash, a good example of your point of the increasing quality of current oils is the oil change intervals of certain vehicles. I know the regular service oil change interval is 7500 miles for the 6.0 PSD on dino oil. You'd have to go a long time between changes to make up for the price difference of running Amsoil, and that entire time you'd be collecting other contaminants in the oil such as diesel fuel.