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The '69 F100 I just bought doesn't have original radio. Lead out of radio in it was connected by wedging the stripped end into one of the fuses - nice job! I was lucky enough to find an original radio that works. The lead on it has an in line fuse and a plug on the end. Chilton manual says to connect the lead to the fuse panel but there isn't a place on the panel. Where do I connect it?
I have wondered about that also. I stuffed the (yellow) wire of my modern replacement radio into the brake light switch! That allowed the radio to keep it's memory. The other (ignition wire) I stuffed into a fuse, but always wondered where the radio was supposed to connect.
One option is to just tie the "always hot" wire into the hot lead (bat) on the ignition switch and the switched lead into the ign terminal on the switch. The other option is to splice into wires that already do the same thing.
The other thing is to ALWAYS!! use a fuse in both lines to the radio. Replacing a fuse is a whloe lot better than replaceing the wiring harness after an electrical fire.
The radio has only two wires coming out of it and one has a jack that fits the speaker so I assume the other is the lead. So with only one lead wire to hook up, any suggestions of where to plug it ... and let's keep it clean guys.
You can use one of the opened "accessory" plugs on the fuse box, but likely, if you turn the key on, you'll find a few live plugs under the dash of the truck for options yours didn't come with, and could use any of those wires as they are. The orange wire(for the clock) needs to be hooked to any wire that has power all the time(cig lighter is the general rule of thumb, as the clock is super low draw) Do NOT SPLICE, rather, clip and crimp with a butt connector with shrink tube on it, or use solder and shrink tube(if you know how to properly) to get the connection you want. Splice tap type connectors cut most of the wires you're trying to connect, and end up either cutting off completely and pulling out, or leave you wondering if they're ok until you open them up again. ALWAYS use inline fuses in all circuits, regardless of which one, as added protection. Do all of this with the battery disconnected, after determining which wires to use with the light tester, so as not to fry anything.
RR4E - there are two male plugs to the left of the two fuses that are in the center of the fuse panel. Are these the accessory plugs you mentioned? My radio is an original AM mode with one power cord that has an inline fuse. I assume all I have to do is to change the plug that's on the end of the power wire to a female plug that will fit the accessory male plug in the panel, right?
You are correct. Put a female connector on the wire and you are good to go. All that is really important is that the terminal that you pick to tie into is switched so that you don't run the battery down if you leave the radio on.
Okay, one last question, does anyone know off hand what type/size female connnector I'll need to fit the accessory plug? If not, I can figure it out. Thanks for all the help.
I have had trouble wth my oem radio,too(67 250 CS). For some reason it only very faintly picks up signals. I purchased a new antennae, hooked it up-no improvement. What's weird is that when I pass the radio towers here by Tucson, if the radio is turned on and turned up all of a sudden it will produce loud static,garbled sound. I can't figure this out. Any ideas?thanks
I have had trouble wth my oem radio,too(67 250 CS). For some reason it only very faintly picks up signals. I purchased a new antennae, hooked it up-no improvement. What's weird is that when I pass the radio towers here by Tucson, if the radio is turned on and turned up all of a sudden it will produce loud static,garbled sound. I can't figure this out. Any ideas?thanks
first of all, you are talking about a 37 year old AM radio. you are GOING to have problems with it. best you could do is find a new one or get one of those really neat OEM looking NEW radio with a CD changer.