steering column

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Dec 13, 2004 | 10:37 PM

elvin deshazer

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Joined: Oct 2004

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steering column

Hey does anybody know where to find a aftermarket column, so I can get away
from the rag joint problems?
for a 69 f250 2wd.
Elvin.

Dec 13, 2004 | 11:38 PM

4020loaderman

Junior User

Joined: Jul 2004

Posts: 76

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From: western KS

you could try the site part store and see if they a steering shaft assembly that would replace the orignal and let you keep oe column it has u joints in place of a rag joint if the site store does not then try lmctruck.com part # 45-0860 for a 70-72 f100-f250 2 or 4 wd for $299.95 that has a 30,000 mile warranty. this may work for your 69 cause last spring in my 70 i repalced the steering column in it with one form a 69 out of a bone yard and it worked fine and was identical Hope this helps also you might try national parts depot they also may have something.

Last edited by 4020loaderman; Dec 13, 2004 at 11:43 PM.

Dec 14, 2004 | 02:08 AM

"Beemer Nut"

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Joined: Dec 2003

Posts: 6,658

Likes: 4

From: "Islander"

rag joint problems

elvin, whats the problem? If you keep them dry (not oil soaked) they last. I replaced two in 868,000 miles, 27 years. You need to have the column aligned with the steering box before you torque things down. Did you replace cab mounts and not realign the column? Old cab mounts collapse? Carl.....o&o>....

Dec 14, 2004 | 06:22 AM

jowilker

Fleet Owner

Joined: Jun 1999

Posts: 24,552

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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina

Elvin, Ya don't want to do away with the rag joint. It is the shock absorber for the column. It keeps all of the road vibrations off your hands. If you are blowing rag joints, something is out of whack, and that is probably front cab mounts. Rag joints last for many years.

John

Dec 14, 2004 | 07:12 PM

elvin deshazer

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Joined: Oct 2004

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no, only replaced the original.
but the slop must be from the box?
this is why I ask these questions, tapping into you
more experienced ones. may save alot of $.
Elvin.

Dec 14, 2004 | 07:46 PM

Joe fix it

Senior User

Joined: Aug 2002

Posts: 327

Likes: 1

From: Saskatchewan

I blew my rag joint a little while ago and I ended up just rebuilding it, I took some old rubber that had a metal reinforcing mesh inside of it, cut it into a circle and reinstalled the metal parts. So far I got only 1000 miles on it, but she seems to be holding up pretty good.

Dec 14, 2004 | 11:20 PM

Fomoko1

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Joined: Dec 2003

Posts: 97,628

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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan

Quote:

Originally Posted by elvin deshazer

no, only replaced the original.
but the slop must be from the box?
this is why I ask these questions, tapping into you
more experienced ones. may save alot of $.
Elvin.

If you have play in the steering it could be from just about any thing else such as tie rods, king pins or part of your suspenion. Never had a problem with the rag joint after many years of
Ford trucking. Take the truck to a knowledgeable mechanic/friend before spending money.

Last edited by fomoko1; Dec 14, 2004 at 11:23 PM.

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Dec 14, 2004 | 11:38 PM

"Beemer Nut"

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Joined: Dec 2003

Posts: 6,658

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From: "Islander"

steering box adjustment, my way

elvin, the way i've done it over the years is to remove the pitman arm or tie rod at the pitman arm, find center, half the number of turns left and right on the steering box. Back the adjusting nut out 2-3 turns, turn in the adjusting screw until you "just detect" tightness as you turn the rag joint by hand. The steering will get tight at the center (straight ahead position) vs 1/2 turn left or right off center. You will get a better "feel" turning the rag joint vs turning the big steering wheel. When you have established "detectable" drag or tightness, hold the adjusting bolt and not let it turn. Spin down the lock nut and tighten. Recheck again, if satisfied add anti-seize compound to the pitman arm spline or tie rod taper. Word of caution, if you removed the pitman arm, retorque it two or three times the next 50 miles as it will creep up the tapered spline and the nut torque will get real low. Most damage to steering boxes is people cranking down on the adjuster and adding too high of preload,
that will destroy a box long before it wears out. To adjust any other way will save time but then save that time and money to replace the box. I'll shut up now. Carl......o&o>........