Lets start at the beginning, might be long, but the best place to start the endevor. Recently my check engine light on my 00' 4.0 litre 4x4 Ranger came on, so I got the codes read. Lean on both banks, and a emissions control system leak came up. Couldn't find the leak on the emissions system, and narrowed down the lean situation to a vaccum leak. Couldn't find that either so regretfully took it to the local Ford dealership WHICH I might add has a VERY bad reputation. About 400 bucks later a hood flip and a found vaccum leak they contact me. Well you have a bad fuel tank (apparently there is a valve for the emission on top of the tank that cracked) 1000 dollars, yea right. Put it back in I'll fix it myself, or find one for less. While taking the tank out they noticed gear oil slung up under the bed from the rear end differential and in the engine compartment area from the front differential. Both areas are leaking where the drive shafts enter the differentials. They don't drip, just seem to leak when moving hince the oil slung up from the shafts spinning. I checked the fluid level and both where obviously low. Its odd because the shafts don't enter the differentials themselfs, they are as you know connected to a flange.

Questions
1. Can I get a fuel tank for this thing anywhere cheeper than 1000 bucks.
2. Is there a seal where the drive shafts enter the differentials on each end? And how the hell do you change them?
3. Does the flange the driveshaft is connected to just slide out, or am I going to have to tear apart these rear and front differential?

Hopefully this covers anything, and everything HOPEFULLY. Any input will help becuase the dealer claims the seals are going to be $800 apiece to change. Not to mention $1000 for the tank.

 

Did the lean codes get fixed?

A new fuel tank is about $425 from the dealer (just the part). I'd try a few junkyards first.

Regarding replacing the differential seal, this thread should provide a little insight:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=267196

 

This is the tank I used when I had to replace mine. You may want to contact them since I am pretty sure this tank won't fit yours. I am sure you could find one for alot less than $1000. Putting them in is more of a pain than anything else. Good luck.

I guess you have to cut'n paste since my link insert wasn't working.

-http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33556&item=7939402 037&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

 

Rockledge, yes I did get the lean condition fixed but I hate to keep putting gear oil in this thing and would like to get this fixed. And to you G2IC_Wraith that tank won't work, I already saw that tank, yet I wish it would. Is it really that hard to fix these seals? Is the nut right on the middle of the flanges and just needs to be removed and then pull out the seal? Yes that thread helped but, is there anywhere I can get a shop/repair manual. My local Autozone and Advanced Autoparts don't carrry manuals for that year.

 

$1000 for a gas tank! How about trying to fix the one you have, can you fool or bypass this valve somehow?

 

Yea, as I said, I didn't think it would fit (99% sure), but you can still contact them and ask if they have a tank for your truck. I am not sure where the leak your dealer is talking about, but if it is in a place you can patch..... there are repair kits at your local auto store for cheap. I would think JB Weld might be possible too.

As for your rear diff issue..... I am fairly sure your drive shaft is just like all the others I have pulled. I think the bolt you are talking about is right in the center of the yolk right? That nut should release the yolk from the housing and I don't see why you couldn't pull the seal after that. It may require a puller of some type. I have never tried to repair a diff on my own since the 2 times I had issues with one, they were beyond the point of just a leak. If you can't find this local, maybe this link will help:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...glance&s=books

 

If the gasket the are talking about is at the top where the sending unit attaches, pretty easy fix once the tank is dropped down, and the tank is only held up by a bout 4-6 bolts. The flange gasket can be made from generic gasket material, or the dealer should be able to order just the gasket. the pinion seal is a different story, if you remoeve the nut at the flange, it will knock the ring and pinion out of alignment (spacing and so forth) Remove the axles yourself (save on labor) and take them to a specialist to have seals installed (unless you or a friend feel cofortable and have experience)


Just my $.02 worth, if you don't need it give it back, I need it for christmas!
Ammo Troop

 

And that would be exactly why (as an ignorant fool scared of the "black box") I never open things like the trans or the diff unless it is just to change the fluid.

 

Well sorry for the misprint guys, I just checked out the truck again and its a 01' and not a 00'. I bought that manual anyways at a parts store, but I guess the design changed in 01'. Sorry guys, but thanks for the help. I really don't know what to do.... I HATE I mean HATE to take it to the dealer and wanna do this myself (with the help my father) and we have experience, just not with differentials. Because not only is the rear seal bad, but the front seal as well. I would guess the front is the same only smaller, but I hate to get this thing apart then not be able to put it back together.