Unfixable Problem with Alignment?
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Unfixable Problem with Alignment?
Mornin',
This problem has been bothering me since my truck was new. My '02 F250 PSD has a slight pull to the right. It's more than what the crown of the road causes, as I've tested it by driving the center-line and it still veers right ever so slightly. It does not get noticeable worse when braking like most alignment issues do.
I've had the alignment checked (3) times by (3) different shops and was told it's "dead on factory specs". Most recently, I had a 3.5" hanger kit w/dual shocks installed. I also had them put on the optional adjustable track bar. Of course, they did an alignment afterwards. I was hoping that this mod would finally eliminate the minor, but irritating, steering problem. It didn't.
Do you kind folks have any ideas what could be wrong?
TIA,
Matt
This problem has been bothering me since my truck was new. My '02 F250 PSD has a slight pull to the right. It's more than what the crown of the road causes, as I've tested it by driving the center-line and it still veers right ever so slightly. It does not get noticeable worse when braking like most alignment issues do.
I've had the alignment checked (3) times by (3) different shops and was told it's "dead on factory specs". Most recently, I had a 3.5" hanger kit w/dual shocks installed. I also had them put on the optional adjustable track bar. Of course, they did an alignment afterwards. I was hoping that this mod would finally eliminate the minor, but irritating, steering problem. It didn't.
Do you kind folks have any ideas what could be wrong?
TIA,
Matt
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,372
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From: West Cornwall, CT
The pull could be tire or wheel related. It might even be caused by a rear suspension problem. A few things to try if you have not already done this:
Swap your front wheels and see if the truck pulls to the other side. If there is no change, swap wheels from front to back. This should eliminate wheels and tires as a cause.
Inspect your rear leaf springs to make sure that a leaf is not broken and that rear suspension is not sagged or shifted on one side. Check the rear axle u-bolts while you are under the truck to make sure that they are properly torqued.
Did your alignment shop check front to rear axle position? Since you have seen the problem from day one it is possible that the front and rear axles are not properly aligned. An alignment shop that works with lifted trucks would easily check this out.
Lou Braun
Swap your front wheels and see if the truck pulls to the other side. If there is no change, swap wheels from front to back. This should eliminate wheels and tires as a cause.
Inspect your rear leaf springs to make sure that a leaf is not broken and that rear suspension is not sagged or shifted on one side. Check the rear axle u-bolts while you are under the truck to make sure that they are properly torqued.
Did your alignment shop check front to rear axle position? Since you have seen the problem from day one it is possible that the front and rear axles are not properly aligned. An alignment shop that works with lifted trucks would easily check this out.
Lou Braun
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Thanks Lou,
I've definitely eliminated tires. Also, the shop that did my lift checked all suspension components for breakage and found none.
They did not specify whether they checked the axle-to-axle position, however. This may be a possible solution because, when I up-sized the tires from stock to 285s, with the stock suspension in place, the left front tire would rub on the mud flap when I turned the wheel all the way left. The right tire did not rub. Hmmm......
I've also read that leaf springs with unequal spring rates can cause similar problems. Have any of you experienced this?
Matt
I've definitely eliminated tires. Also, the shop that did my lift checked all suspension components for breakage and found none.
They did not specify whether they checked the axle-to-axle position, however. This may be a possible solution because, when I up-sized the tires from stock to 285s, with the stock suspension in place, the left front tire would rub on the mud flap when I turned the wheel all the way left. The right tire did not rub. Hmmm......
I've also read that leaf springs with unequal spring rates can cause similar problems. Have any of you experienced this?
Matt
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
From experience I don't think that spring rates or broken springs could be your problem. For example my truck had two leafs broke in the rear bad ball joints bad tie rod ends and it drove straight. I have also had weight on one side of the truck so that it was twisted and it drove straight..even had a car with a crabbing problem that didn't pull..Measure axle tube to axle tube front to back to see if its off then go to the back of the frame to axle tubes maybe level down to the ground first and check each corner of each tube to the frame. sometimes just simple measuring will show the faults.
Dick
Dick
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Nevada,
Hey everyone,
I understand that the truck alignment is "within specification" but is the geometery correct??? Alignment specs are a range of degrees that are acceptable for performance and wear, however a pull within the specified range is still possible. Do you have a printout of what the actual alignment numbers are for you ride?? Did they do a thrustline alignment so that the front end will accomodate any misalignment of the rear end?? It your Left caster is more positive than your right that could cause a pull, if your Right camber is more positive than the left that could cause your pull. if your front toe setting is negative, and not positive, that could cause a lack of straight line stability. get a printout of your actual specs and the book specs, most alignment places will adjust to your liking as long as they get paid!!
good luck, R.
I understand that the truck alignment is "within specification" but is the geometery correct??? Alignment specs are a range of degrees that are acceptable for performance and wear, however a pull within the specified range is still possible. Do you have a printout of what the actual alignment numbers are for you ride?? Did they do a thrustline alignment so that the front end will accomodate any misalignment of the rear end?? It your Left caster is more positive than your right that could cause a pull, if your Right camber is more positive than the left that could cause your pull. if your front toe setting is negative, and not positive, that could cause a lack of straight line stability. get a printout of your actual specs and the book specs, most alignment places will adjust to your liking as long as they get paid!!
good luck, R.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Dallas
If you went to a good alignment shop (one that is comfortable with big trucks, say an alignment place for 18 wheelers) and they found nothing then i would have to second the tire issue. I had my alignment done three times, untill everything was perfect, and it still pulls. Found the problem to be that my right front tire's belts are seperating. I moved it to the back, it has lessened the pull, however it is still there some.
good luck.
opps. i didnt see till after i replied that you eliminated the tires. oh well.
I would just make sure you are going to a good alignment shop, that can make all the difference. Those crappy chain alignment places equipment isn't big enough for most of our trucks.... they just don't have the experience for it.
good luck.
opps. i didnt see till after i replied that you eliminated the tires. oh well.
I would just make sure you are going to a good alignment shop, that can make all the difference. Those crappy chain alignment places equipment isn't big enough for most of our trucks.... they just don't have the experience for it.
Last edited by 02superstroker; Dec 11, 2004 at 11:44 AM.
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R,
Yes, the last place that checked the alignment did show me a printout and we compared them with book. All numbers were either perfect, or well within acceptable tolerances, so they said. As far as I know, they did not check the rear end.
On Dick's recommendation, I did some crawling around under my truck with a tape measure. I've determined that the left axle-to-axle is 7/16" wider than the right. Also, based on measurements from the rear frame cross-member to the center of axle tube, it looks like the left rear needs to move forward exactly 7/16".
With all of your help, I may have found the problem. Woo hoo!! Now, I just have to figure out how to fix it. It sounds like this "thrustline alignment" may be what I need.
Matt
Yes, the last place that checked the alignment did show me a printout and we compared them with book. All numbers were either perfect, or well within acceptable tolerances, so they said. As far as I know, they did not check the rear end.
On Dick's recommendation, I did some crawling around under my truck with a tape measure. I've determined that the left axle-to-axle is 7/16" wider than the right. Also, based on measurements from the rear frame cross-member to the center of axle tube, it looks like the left rear needs to move forward exactly 7/16".
With all of your help, I may have found the problem. Woo hoo!! Now, I just have to figure out how to fix it. It sounds like this "thrustline alignment" may be what I need.
Matt
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: USA
Just a few words here,when doing your measurements make sure your truck is on a perfect flat concrete. also you would want to use the fitment holes in the frame for criss cross measurements.
if this truck has done this from new ,it may have had rail shipment damage.
A good bodyshop with a laser frame machine will be able to tell if you have a tweaked frame or bent axle tube.
i've worked in them,now since retired!
Rich
if this truck has done this from new ,it may have had rail shipment damage.
A good bodyshop with a laser frame machine will be able to tell if you have a tweaked frame or bent axle tube.
i've worked in them,now since retired!
Rich
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