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Fuel Pump Problems

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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 08:06 AM
  #1  
amw_drizz's Avatar
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Exclamation Fuel Pump Problems

How would i go about testing the fuel pump(s) in my 88 bronco II. i have narrowed the problem down from the ignition system to the fuel system. so how would i go about to figure out which fuel pump is the problem...

Here is what happens:

get in car start it, let it warm up for 10 mins then go to school... on the way to school it dies out. after letting it sit for a few mins with the key on it will start and run for a few secs. then it dies out agian... 4-6 hours later when i get out of school and are home it will start and run alright for a 1/2 hour.

Jon
 
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 10:11 AM
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87 XLT's Avatar
87 XLT
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From: SoCal
When you turn the key to run-not start- you should hear the pumps for 2 seconds. When it wont start, do you hear the pumps?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 11:08 AM
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mike L
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From: va
fuel pump

Does it have fuel injection or a carb? What size engine? If its a efi, i may be able to help i have a bad in tank fuel pump on my front fuel tank. It runs until i get to a hill.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 12:44 PM
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From: miami florida
i just had that same problem turned out to be the in tank fuel pump
it would cut off and come back on whenever it decides.
you can do a selft test with your self test connections just pull codes easier than to start ripping things apart
 
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 01:31 PM
  #5  
87 XLT's Avatar
87 XLT
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by monty06
i just had that same problem turned out to be the in tank fuel pump
it would cut off and come back on whenever it decides.
you can do a selft test with your self test connections just pull codes easier than to start ripping things apart
Good point from Monty. Heres an XLNT link-coutesy of Rockledge- that shows how to keep the fuel pump circuit turned on so you can test it.
www.superhighoutput.com/tech_view.php?id=5

Do you have a wiring diagram & voltmeter?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 04:39 PM
  #6  
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Okay it is EFI, 2,9 liter (duel Pumps) dont have voltmter, when it wont start i here the in tank pump... when i turn the key to start.

nor no wiring diagram... just reecently replace the distibuter think that was the problem... well it contributed to it.

if you need any thing else dont hesitate to ask

Thanks Still looking
 
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 07:04 PM
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Do you hear the HP pump on the frame rail when it's a no start?

Can you borrow a voltmeter or get a test light?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 07:34 PM
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From: va
you need to get the trouble codes even if the engine light is not on. I have an 87 F EFI the Hayes manual says its set up the same way as yours. My front tank was tested at ford with a fuel pressure tester and was found it doesn't hold pressure. It will run until I try to go up a hill. Put your ear on the tank and turn the key to run but not start to see if you hear a hum for 2 seconds. That would be the in tank low pressure fuel pump. Ford unhooked my fuel supply line ( smaller hose ) at the tank and put it into a fuel can and rechecked the fuel pressure it was ok. You could have a bad fuel relay, fuel filter, or on the rail fuel pump or fuel shut off switch by clutch pedal or the fuel pressure regulator. Pressure should be 30 to 45 psi while running. 35 to 45 psi not running. Tester runs about 40.00, you need one to go to 100 psi for efi's. I hear if you squeeze the return line with a pair of vise grips with a week pump it should stall// but not sure.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 05:26 AM
  #9  
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I'll Try that

okay i will give that a try... yes i do have a testlight...

post later today or tommarrow when it is nice enough to do it.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 12:18 PM
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Thumbs up Possible fix for fuel pump issues.

I had a problem with a poor connection inside the tank on my 89 where the electrical wires pass through the plate that holds the sender/fuel pump assy. The ring terminals on the bulkhead studs was loose and oxidised. Simply drilled out the stud to remover the terminal, then crimp on a new ring end. I went to the local hareware store and got brass machine screws, nuts and small orings to seal the screws passing through the mounting. Drill the plastic insulator so the new screws will fit through. Put the ring end on the screw followed by a oring. Place the screw through the plastic insultor and tighten nut down. The screw can then be cut to match the lenght of the other brass studs. Put some dielectric grease on the terminals and snap the wiring harness back on. I bought the truck for a song as the previous owner could not figure out the problem. Startes every time now and runs like a dream. One word of caustion, the tank is notorious for rusting under the straps. My tank sprung during this operation but the are avaliable for about $100 repopped. Later and I hope this helps. PS the antiroll over switch trhat is mounted under the carpet is also a source of problems. If you have no power back by the tank. Try TEMPORARILY by passing it My freinds ranger had this problem. DR.
 

Last edited by EVILFORDDR.; Dec 10, 2004 at 12:21 PM. Reason: 1 more thing.
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 02:26 PM
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that switch is called the inertia switch just so you know
 
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 03:39 PM
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If one of the pumps aren't running use the test light to check for power at the pump.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2004 | 08:57 PM
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I have an 88 Bronco II with the same symptoms. I recently discovered at this site (Removed by Admin, do not place links for spam on FTE) that it could be the Thick Film Intigration (TFI) ignition module causing the problem. There is a guy on e-bay selling these modules for 24.99 + 5.00 S&H, he said he had plenty in stock. Mine is in the mail and I will post latter if that is the problem. Just thought I would throw this out there.
 

Last edited by IB Tim; Mar 25, 2008 at 04:00 PM. Reason: [url]http://www.tfisettlement.com/[/url]
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 07:51 AM
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TFI Not the Problem

The TFi is not the problem just put a new distrib & coil in so that aint the problem... thanks for the ideas
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 08:18 AM
  #15  
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B2 no-start

ALright when my b2 has a no-start i can not get under there to test the eletrical wires, it dies 99% of the time on very busy roads and often in the morning! around 7:00 am and 8:00 pm. i dont know could the computer have a problem in it & how would i pull codes if i dont have a code reader and cant afford one! i have a older electric fuel pump i would like to know if i can remove the low pressure (or disable it) pump and put the other pump on the fuel system... know what i am asking is can i disable the in tank fuel pump, put in another good fuel pump on the side of the fram rail or something like that and then have it run to the high pressure pump for the fuel system.can that be done with out removing the tank from the b2?
 
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