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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 03:49 PM
  #16  
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fordtrucklover94
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getting carpeting is no problem, I just remembered that i've got a family friend in the carpet business that can get me anything i need for real cheap, esp. since I did some work for him over the summer. Doesn't it pay to have friends in different areas to help hook you up, lol. I looked at the jl audio and the only thing i found was the behind the seat box for the standard cab, well, I have an extended cab, and that wouldn't work. I haven't really heard a lot about jl audio subs, but I have heard the kickers, rockford fosgate, pioneer, and kenwoods, they don't sound that bad. not sure what model numbers, but I can find out. I've got a load of ideas, I just have to get time to go climb in the back and see what I got, during finals week isn't the best time to do that, I really need to be studying now, but tomorrow when I head home, i'll hop back there and start measuring, thanks guys, ya'll have helped out a bunch
 
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 09:57 PM
  #17  
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use 3/4 MDF and double the front and back. glue the seams with wood glue and once dried then use screws. if it sounds bad, try again
 
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Old Dec 18, 2004 | 07:15 PM
  #18  
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From: South Texas
use 3/4 MDF and double the front and back. glue the seams with wood glue and once dried then use screws. if it sounds bad, try again
This sounds interesting, why would you double up on the MDF? 3/4" is more than enough, unless your building something huge for SPL or something. Why would you wait for the glue to dry before using screws? If you measure carefully and make the box the correct volume, you should have to do it more than once.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 12:49 AM
  #19  
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From: California Desert
Some people say not to use silicone to seal the joints because some of the chemicals released during curing can eat at the speaker. This only happens if you are impatient and try to move on without letting the silicone properly cure. I've actually never had any problems with even wet silicone eating my speakers. If you build the box properly, theoretically it will already be airtight and won't need silicone. But I don't like building things twice, so I go the extra step and make sure my box is completely sealed.
If you think it might be possible to do something custom like you're thinking, make some measurements, and cut out some cardboard and use that as a mock up to see if it will fit. An advantage to that is once you know it will fit, the cardboard can be used as the template when you cut the wood so you won't have to make any more measurements or calculations. Because my box was such a unique build, I actually stopped taking measurements once I got the base down and just cut out a piece of cardboard that would fit the next piece on the box and used that as my template.

http://www.maticuno.com/shadowdragon.html The third row has all the pictures from my box build.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 01:32 PM
  #20  
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high spl. exactly. a guy i know just used single 3/4 mdf and his box exploded under the pressure and vibrations
 
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 04:42 PM
  #21  
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1991fseries
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From: Barrington USA
Mine is made out of 3/4" MDF and held together with gorillra glue and dry wall screws, the gorillra glue is expensive but once applied and dryied it will never come off. then the outside of the box is carpeted. the seams are sealed with caulking on the inside of the box
 
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 05:12 PM
  #22  
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From: South Texas
high spl. exactly. a guy i know just used single 3/4 mdf and his box exploded under the pressure and vibrations
Some internal bracing could have prevented that.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 06:54 PM
  #23  
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I built a box to fit 2 15s in my 2000 f350 crewcab, it replaced the center console, I built it out of fiberglass, it took 6 gallons, but it is about an inch thick, then it took about a half gallon of bondo to get it shaped and smoothed perfect. I then had it covered in .25 thick foam and leather to match the stock seats. Search the web for instructions on building a fiberglass box. it is alot easier than i thougfh it would be.
 
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