Hey Everyone,

I am finally redy to get some actual construction started on my project. I have a 51 f1. During the dis-assembly I noted some bend in the frame at the rear wheel hump. I'm sure there is more. I am looking for a shop in the Eatern Nc area that can do quality frame and custom build work. I need the frame inspected, straightened, boxed, and powder coated. Looking for shop to have a long standing relatioship with to help throughout the build. Any recommendations of where to go and where to stay away from will greatly help.

Sincerely,

Josh

 

What city are you in?
Normally the restoration guys normally want the whole project or none of it at all.

 

I live in the small town of Richlands, Nc. We are about an hour north of Wilmington, Nc and an hour and a half south of Raleigh/Durham.

 

I am aware of Richlands. I knew Mack and Rodney Rich I would see them at some of the race tracks we go to. Anyway Start with Trophy Rides in Wilmington. Trophy Rides Don't be afraid also ask for references from anyone who have had frame straightening just to ease your own mind. Any reputable shop will provide those and you get to know how friendly or rude they really are straight out of the box.
Anyone you talk to about doing this is going to want to see the project first bfore they agree to do it or offer any type of quote, so always have detailed photos with you when go to talk to them.

 

I'm in Durham and do builds. Why do you need your frame straightened? If you are leaving it mostly stock why do you want to box your frame? I don't do frame straightening other than squaring, it usually makes more sense to replace a seriously damaged frame, but I do boxing, suspension rebuilding/upgrades/IFS/IRS swaps. I also can do engine swaps, rust repair, customizing, chopping, sectioning. I don't do finish body painting except for myself. I have > 50 years experience and do things right.

 

I would like to see some pictures of your custom work you have done for others?

 

Me too. I'd like to see pictures of what you've done.

 

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I haven't done work for others for over 30 years since I left Buffalo, my brothers, and our shop. There we built primarily drag racing cars, not customs. My brothers still carry on the business I started there, Frank Brothers Racing Enterprises. (see my "extras" gallery for pix of their cars) I went into designing and crafting award winning fine jewelry for others in my custom jewelry store instead: CHARLES FRANK, goldsmith. (a couple examples of my most recent jewelry work can be seen on my facebook page: Chuck Frank) I got back into auto racing in 2000, in SCCA autocrossing. My then wife and I prepared and nationally raced sports cars and sports sedans with good success, 2 national championships, several state championships and too many top 5s to count. That is me in my race car in my signature taken from the cover of the 2010 National Championship program. I designed and had built my current shop specifically to be able to build hot rods and race cars once I retired from crafting jewelry.
The only recent examples of my hot rod and custom work is what I have done on my own truck. I have carried over my philosophy from my jewelry business that made me successful for over 35 years in that business, to do only first quality work whether I do it for my self or others. It's only since I have retired have I had the time to work on hot rods, and only since my (now ex-) wife decided to leave me for someone else after cleaning me out and putting me heavily into debt have I decided to solicit work from others to supplement my income and help support my hobbies. I just love working on cars!

 

To Ax Racer I could see a slight tweak in the frame just above the rear bump stop on the driver side. Had it looked at by a local resto shop I found. Jackson's Auto Sales and Restorations. The frame was off about 3/8 in the rear. He trued that out for me. I am rebuilding this truck because it is a family heirloom. Boxing seemed like a good measure for the trucks longevity. Am I wrong here? I hope to keep the stock Flathead V8 with a T-5. The Flathead will get slightly tweaked but nothing too crazy like a blower. I am having the entire frame powder coated so I need to make these mods first. Should I continue with the boxing or forget it? What are the pros and cons? Thanks

 

Boxing is needed when there's too much torque being exerted or for weight strengthening. If you're keeping the truck mostly stock, boxing is not necessary.

 

Our trucks have a pretty strong frame (most have lasted 60 years and will likely make it another 60) IMHO Boxing is overkill unless you are running > about 600 HP and drag racing it or swapping to independent suspension. If one of the horizontal flanges is bent, It can be easily straightened, or if cracked a doubler can be added inside. If the vertical portion of the frame is tweeked, then it needs to be looked at on a frame table. For a cruiser using the stock suspension, the suspension was designed to be used with an unboxed frame. For longevity the open frame will last longer since it is difficult to near impossible to protect the inside of a boxed frame from corrosion or moisture.
Personally I wouldn't powder coat the frame, I'd give it a coat or two of a good moistured cured urethane. MCU is tougher than powder coat, they use it on the inside of steel water tanks and the floors of jet hangers. It's what I used on my garage floor because it's better than epoxy. The feature that make it more desirable than powder coat is that it can be spotted in or retouched later if needed. With PC the whole thing needs to be media stripped and recoated if it should get chipped, scratched or a modification needs to be made. Are you going to be storing the truck outside after it's done or parking it where it could come in contact with salt water? The MCU is more resistant to salt water than PC. If you do decide to box the frame, you have a much better chance of being able to coat the inside with MCU If you cut enough access ports in the boxing plates since it is recommended the MCU be applied with a brush or roller rather than spraying.
For information the frame on my 56 panel is open and will stay that way unless I change the suspension. I am running a 400 cu 350 HP CSB small block with a T56 six speed, and it's rumored I just might have a heavy right foot on occasion.
Grandpa, I take it that you have found a shop you are happy with then. If there is anything I can do for you let me know, I don't take on but one project at a time and don't have the overhead of a commercial shop so my prices are reasonable and the work gets done rather than sitting around.

 

Ax,

If you're taking on builds for others, don't you need liability insurance in case something goes wrong while the person is driving the vehicle that you've modified and built, so they don't sue the pants off of you?

I'm just curious why you'd want to open yourself up to that kind of a liability??? Maybe you already have insurance for this type of work.

 

Ax, what is MCU & where can you buy it & what does it cost? thanks Bob

 

Ax,

I do have a welding project I need some help on. I am waiting to get all the parts needed for the T-5. Can you fab up a new cross member? I like my shop but they are pricey and not so timely. I don't know how to weld cleanly yet and would like to be able to sit in and begin to learn the skill. Thanks for the input on PC, I will have to really research the MCU option.