Driveshaft hoops
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
Driveshaft hoops
Alrighty, thinking about a stupid project that I don't actually have any need for but maybe Pro and I can build it when he's visiting (like I don't have enough stuff to do already). Anybody here use driveshaft hoops to catch it uncase a u-joint breaks? If so, any tips on building or mounting them? I'm thinking of bolting one directly to my frame but I'm not sure how I'm mounting the hoop by the axle. I was thinking of maybe making a fixture I could bolt to the webbing of the axle. Otherwise I could weld tabs to the axle tube and bolt something to them. But in any event if you guys have ideas or pictures post them up!
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 265
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From: Canada
Good thinking ivan. But for the most part, what your trying to avoid when using safety loops are the pole valt effect....so normally you'd just run one up front. Thats what i use on my car, and will probably whip one up for the truck soon as well. Basically the front would be easy, but the rear, like you say, it has to move with the diff, so welding tabs may be your best bet, but back there you may run the risk of tearing it off when rubbing the diff/drive shaft on whatever you may find to do so on. Good luck tho, and post up pics of your final product, good project dude!
Brian
Brian
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From: GANS
Originally Posted by ivanribic
Alrighty, thinking about a stupid project that I don't actually have any need for but maybe Pro and I can build it when he's visiting (like I don't have enough stuff to do already). Anybody here use driveshaft hoops to catch it uncase a u-joint breaks? If so, any tips on building or mounting them? I'm thinking of bolting one directly to my frame but I'm not sure how I'm mounting the hoop by the axle. I was thinking of maybe making a fixture I could bolt to the webbing of the axle. Otherwise I could weld tabs to the axle tube and bolt something to them. But in any event if you guys have ideas or pictures post them up!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
I'm not so much concerned about the pole vault effect as having my shaft flopping around tearing stuff apart (don't even start Pro . . . don't want this thread getting pulled! 
). What I want to avoid is having the shaft twist up and smash into the frame, gas tank, exhaust, etc. if something goes. Plus you have to pay for a new driveshaft and that's no fun either. Monster trucks use a longer cage on their shafts that actually cycle with the suspension. Too bad I didn't pay more attention because that design would be killer. I guess I'm more likely to lose a u-joint at the t-case than at the axle since my pinion angle will be about 0.
). What I want to avoid is having the shaft twist up and smash into the frame, gas tank, exhaust, etc. if something goes. Plus you have to pay for a new driveshaft and that's no fun either. Monster trucks use a longer cage on their shafts that actually cycle with the suspension. Too bad I didn't pay more attention because that design would be killer. I guess I'm more likely to lose a u-joint at the t-case than at the axle since my pinion angle will be about 0.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Coutts Canada
Actually the worst thing that WILL happen is when the shaft flops down to the ground and bounces (or something similar, you get the idea) it can break./crack the tranny/t-case housing, and the bellhousing to. This happened to my dad in his (first car) 67 chev implala SS with a pretty serious small block, the shaft dropped smacked the pavement bounched back up nailed the frame (while still rotating) and all off this toasted the 350trans it had (broke the bellhousing, cracked the tailhousing in 3 spots, vaporized the one end of the driveshaft as well). But the one i've seen are made out of steel strapping/flat steel, bent in a circle just in front on the joint about an inch or 2 up the diveshaft tubing, then 3-4 braces support it which lead to bolts on the pumpkin cover. Re simple but yet very efective and can save you hundreds of dollars if your driveshaft ever decides to come off, now i would build them for both ends of the driveshaft as well. Shouldn't take one more than a few hours for start to installed.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2002
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I dropped the front end of the rear shaft in My old 76 f250 at 60mph once, I swear the back end of the truck came 6ft off the ground. The driveshaft was bent into a cool v shape and it wasted the pinion yoke, the driveshaft broke completly loose from the truck. I broke countless joints in the intermediate shaft and always at the tcase end. The floor in that truck looked like someone took a jack hammer to the underside. Loops are a good idea.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Oregon
I ran them in my race cars and you may recall I was talking about fabbing up some loops for the truck the other night. One of those things I've been meaning to get to for years but just never have. Its pretty critical though. For the rear, I'm just going to run it from the frame, I'm only concerned about the high end at the x-case. Haven't decided how I'm going to handle the front yet. I need to build a truss anyways and I was thinking of incorporating a loop mount into that. I'm not so concerned about "my shaft flopping around tearing stuff apart", since the ladies have come to expect that anyways, its that pesky pole vault effect I'd like to avoid.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by proeliator
you may recall I was talking about fabbing up some loops for the truck the other night.
I think it would be cool to see your truck pole vault Pro! Plus it would make a great entry for COTY!
I still can't get a hold of Brian but I'd like to take a look at his setup to see exactly how the monster trucks are rigging their hoops off the front axle.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
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From: iowa
I don't have any pictures (will try and find some later if I can) but the mud draggers, and pullers use a type that encompasses the entire length of the driveshaft I will try, and describe it (and I am going to run it on both of mine)
You take a pipe (most use 1/2" thick wall alum) about 10" dia cut to pieces about 12" long, and then several pieces about 1-2" then using 1x1/4 strapping the length of your driveshaft you space the shorter pieces about 1ft apart with the bigger pieces at the ends over the driveshaft making what appears to be an open tube then tabs off both the transfer case, and the diff you bolt the ends to the tabs using lock nuts to allow them to pivot for the flex of the suspension this would stop the drive shaft from even falling out at all, and will stop pieces of a ujoint from flying around if one disingrates
You take a pipe (most use 1/2" thick wall alum) about 10" dia cut to pieces about 12" long, and then several pieces about 1-2" then using 1x1/4 strapping the length of your driveshaft you space the shorter pieces about 1ft apart with the bigger pieces at the ends over the driveshaft making what appears to be an open tube then tabs off both the transfer case, and the diff you bolt the ends to the tabs using lock nuts to allow them to pivot for the flex of the suspension this would stop the drive shaft from even falling out at all, and will stop pieces of a ujoint from flying around if one disingrates
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by ivanribic
Hmm, maybe that's where I came up with it. Was that the night I was out of it? For whatever reason it's been bouncing around my head the past few days.
When I saw this thread I could tell you'd already forgotten it but I'd planted the subliminal seed. Next time you're snookered I think I'll convince you to paypal me $$$. What are buddies for?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Rep. of Texas
Hey pro, if your not worried about under body damage, then you could just cut a piece of pipe of proper diameter, about 4" long, and weld a mounting bracket type thing to either side of it, like this from the front -O- but smaller brackets. then you just buy some limiter straps intended for limiting axle droop and bolt it to the pipe and run it to the frame. you would want some sort of bushing in there though, or bearings, to keep your shaft in good shape. That way it can easily go up, and down depending on how much slack you have, and keep it from vaulting you when you break it, as we all know you will.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,067
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From: Kincardine, ON
I have a couple pics
When at Ford Carlisle last year I took a couple shots of a lifted truck with a front and rear hoop. If you could tell me how to post them here I will, failing that I'll just e-mail them if you want.
On a side note, I just printed off you twin stick article. Nicely done and thanks for the help..........another damn winter project
John
On a side note, I just printed off you twin stick article. Nicely done and thanks for the help..........another damn winter project
John
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 7
From: NE Tennessee
For the time and money maybe goto a custom carbonfiber driveshaft? That way if they come apart they just unravel.Not sure how they would do if they got hit with an object while wheeling.
Btw had a cousin had a '69 roadrunner and his back one broke. Tore out his new exhaust and tailhousing on his trans. Still gotta install mine on my mustang but waiting to get the funds for an aluminum driveshaft.
Btw had a cousin had a '69 roadrunner and his back one broke. Tore out his new exhaust and tailhousing on his trans. Still gotta install mine on my mustang but waiting to get the funds for an aluminum driveshaft.