Driveshaft hoops
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 3
From: Centerville, Iowa
Ivan, Pro - what about a ladder bar-style setup? Mount the foreward end up by the transfer case, then have the bars going all hte way down to flank the differential on each sode. Make it so that its not actually a load-bearing peice like Rob's muddrag truck has, just for the sake of the driveshaft. Some crossbeams between the ladder bars with proper clearance's sake, and you could do it. It'd move WITH your axle so the droop and everything wouldn't affect it.
I'm ready for you guys to tell me why this isn't possible now. Just my initial thought guys. Hope you can understand my idea, alot of people ahve a hard time following them =).
I'm ready for you guys to tell me why this isn't possible now. Just my initial thought guys. Hope you can understand my idea, alot of people ahve a hard time following them =).
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
I've looked into carbon fiber shafts before but they're VERY expensive and I personally don't trust them to the beating they'd take on the rocks. I'm not so worried about an actual driveshaft failure as I am a u-joint breaking (happens all the time) and the driveshaft doing some major damage. It would really suck to lose a u-joint and then have a $1000 carbon fiber shaft disentegrate as it hit stuff. 
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 3
From: Centerville, Iowa
I just ran out and slid under my truck, and if I didn't have my side-rail gas tank, it'd at least be mountable. Drop brackets down from the frame on each side for mounting, then just straight back down. Which side you'd want the fixed welds, though...
Is this even feasible? I don't see it NOT being....except perhaps clearance purposes, but this would actually help to protect the driveshaft no?
Is this even feasible? I don't see it NOT being....except perhaps clearance purposes, but this would actually help to protect the driveshaft no?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 13
From: Kincardine, ON
I think I got it
I created a another album to put the pics in, should be found at:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=13560
Hope this helps.
John.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=13560
Hope this helps.
John.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
That's perfect John. Thanks! That rear hoop is exactly what I was thinking of. I'm considering either tabs off the axle tube or off the diff housing that I can just bolt it too incase I ever bash it up. Then I could just unbolt it and built a new one.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
that rear loop won't hold anything the way it is set up if the rear ujoint or yolk lets go the force of the driveshaft will bend those long brackets far enough to allow the driveshaft to fall out, and be just like not having anything at all the front one is probably ok but the rear one has to go
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 3
From: Centerville, Iowa
Yeah, after seeing John's, I realized why you wouldn't go my route. Much more work when you just need it at the front and rear of it.
On an offhand note: I took my new truck out 4-wheeling for the first time a minute ago. Just romping illegally through the city park =). Nothing close to what you guys run..but it got the fever in my system!!!
Gotta go run through the car wash again....
On an offhand note: I took my new truck out 4-wheeling for the first time a minute ago. Just romping illegally through the city park =). Nothing close to what you guys run..but it got the fever in my system!!!
Gotta go run through the car wash again....
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by monsterbaby
that rear loop won't hold anything the way it is set up if the rear ujoint or yolk lets go the force of the driveshaft will bend those long brackets far enough to allow the driveshaft to fall out, and be just like not having anything at all the front one is probably ok but the rear one has to go
Saurian, you need to get some pictures of your truck tearing up the park.
Waaaiiiit a minute . . . that was irresponsible of me to suggest! 
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
I think that if you made the changes Ivan suggested that design would be fine. Its much like what I envisioned running off of an axle truss. The only thing is, you'd better have your axle wrap nailed down otherwise that retaining ring will be chewing into your driveline everytime you stand on it.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
yea I agree that would be better and all I was saying is the way it is setup on that picture it is for looks only cause it won't hold anything, and I also agree farther back to cover the yolk is good but I know you don't run a sanctioned race with your truck (ivan I mean) but that wouldn't meet requirements for driveshaft loops they have to be atleast 12", and not more than 24" from the end of the tube, and you have to have a shield around the yolk also. My thoughts on this are that even though you aren't having to pass tech inspection there is a reason for these type of rules.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
Not quite sure what you are saying but i think I get the idea, and yes I think it would work if I am visuallising it correctly, I will have to find a pic of wht I was talking about and I think you could do a short version of that, and make it work
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 13
From: Kincardine, ON
Wish I took more pictures
I saw quite a few trucks but kept ogling the motors and should have taken more pics of some driveshaft hoops. If somone has a drawing or pic to post it would be great.
John.
John.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 2
From: Pittsburgh
Why not just make a driveshaft hoop that wraps around the pumpkin and uses the cover bolts to retain it? That way you don't have to have a truss jsut to mount one, but you'd have to build it pretty stoutly to keep it from bending if one let go under power since the arms would be so long.
Or if you need to upgrade your rear axle you could go with a corporate 14 bolt and since it has the drop out pinion you could mount it to the pinion bolts, same for guys with a 9".
Justin
Or if you need to upgrade your rear axle you could go with a corporate 14 bolt and since it has the drop out pinion you could mount it to the pinion bolts, same for guys with a 9".
Justin
Last edited by hoxiii; Dec 4, 2004 at 07:56 PM.