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Everything was fine when one morning the ignition would not turn. Tried several keys, same result. I have now pulled the steering wheel and hope to get the ingnition set pulled out. Is there a procedure somewhere that I could reference. Don't really know what I am doing.
A friend had the same problem, he had "locked" his steering when he parked. Turned the wheel too far after he had the truck off. Wiggled the wheel and turned gentley on the key and it released both. Try Hanyes or Chilton
I tried moving the steering wheel and the Automatic shift lever and nothing helps. There is something up with the lock itself. The key is difficult to insert so I believe there may be something obsturcting the lock mechanism.
I have come to the point where I think I should be able to remove the lock/ignition mechanism. Not sure what holds it in place. Do I need to remove the turn signal stuff first?
Take one more stab. Shoot WD40 in the key slot before dismantleing the ignition. A manual will help for sure. Those wires are old and brittle so be carefull. Yes you will have to set the signal assembly aside. It sounds like you may have to replace the tumbler but DO try WD40 first.
Before I pulled the wheel, I did shoot some WD40 in, let it sit for a few days and tried several keys. No improvement.
Concerning the disassembly, once I pull and diconnect the signal assembly, is there a bolt that holds the tumbler set in place or do I have to take off more stuff?
Concerning the disassembly, once I pull and diconnect the signal assembly, is there a bolt that holds the tumbler set in place or do I have to take off more stuff?
Thanks for the help.
I was WRONG. You do not need to remove the signal assembly according to Haynes. Sorry!
According to my Haynes manual (for older models) you have to remove the bolts securing the steering column. Lower and support the column, then remove the nuts securing the ignition switch. lift the switch up to disingage the actuator rod.
When installing and removing the switch it must be turned to the "lock position". In your case thats a given.
When installing the new switch put a 5/64th drill bit in the locking pin hole. (Usually it is shipped with a retainer already) First engage the activator rod in the switch, place the lock in positon and only finger tighten the bolts. Align the switch so the rod lash is about midway. Tighten the nuts at that point and remove the retainer pin/drill bit.
A manual would be worth the $20 but hopefully my condensed version will help. p 12-8 on the Haynes manual.
You need to determine if it is the switch or the lock assy. If memory serves me right the switch is actually located on the steering column underneath the dash. like the above post stated drop the column down. Take the rod out of the switch, and see if the key turns, if not remove the key housing assymbly. there is a small piece in there that is prone to breaking. Sorry I can't remember the particulars it's been a couple years since I had to repair one.
If you're sure the correct key is used, look into the keyway and get the buzzer out of the way by lifting it up, its possible also to not have the turn know on the switch itself not lining up with the keyway...a loose turnknob means the switch will have to be replaced as is the buzzer switch...its at the very top inside the keyway. These locks are good about getting jamed, and spraying wd-4o inside a lock only doesn't nothing but makes it wear out faster and collects air borned dust inside...
When removing the tumbler set you still have to turn it to the RUN position and push in the pin in the hole in the column as posted above. If the key is not moving from the off position you wont be able to remove the tumbler set. The piece that breaks is a cast zinc actuator. It's a piece of junk. I forgot where I found a replacement for mine. It must have been at the auto parts store but I just dont remember.
Well, after buying the manual and purchasing the lock assembly I was able to replace it with only a little difficulty. According to the book "if the key will not go into the run position, contact your local service center". I was not going to have the truck towed so I went at it on my own. There is a pin that hold the assembly in which I believe the shop would drill out if they could not turn the key. I did drill out the pin and snapped off the end of accuator when I pryed the lock out. I was able to get the broken off accuator out with tweezers. The new lock assembly when in without a hitch. I all went back together fine.
The best part is I can throw away the Allumimun keys which are steel on the new set. The whole effort only cost $35.00 and I now have a manual.
Thanks for all the help. This forum is Great!!!......................Rob