Battery Discharge NEED HELP ASAP
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Cowtown, USA
Battery Discharge NEED HELP ASAP
Help!! I have a 1987 F250 w/ 6.9. I have replaced 2 voltage regulators, gotten the altenator tested 3 times saying it worked, and have two new batteries under the hood. For the past 4 Days it has started great. However today after work i had a hard time starting it(It was chilly but no colder than yesterday- 27 degrees). When i did start it the volt meter was in the red zone. When you turn on the fan or the lights the power goes down but when you turn it off it goes back up to the first mark. I used to drive a 95 w/ a powerstroke(company truck) and i kinda remember it did that but never to the extent of this. Any and all help is appreciated. Please, I need to drive to work tomorrow.
Thanks
Kirk
Thanks
Kirk
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
First start the truck then put a volt meter across the battery posts, rev the engine to 2000rpm you should get 14 volts or at least 2 volts over the batteries normal charge.
Do a very good inspection of all the plugins to the alternator there is one which can and will be loose, the charge may fluctuate when any wire is moved. If it does then address the problem there first, then move on to any others. Look for heated/burnt connectors. Also check all wires from the alt for condition, look for burnt wires/fusible links. I believe there is a yellow and white wire with a fusible link, this powers the alt so it charges.......
Do a very good inspection of all the plugins to the alternator there is one which can and will be loose, the charge may fluctuate when any wire is moved. If it does then address the problem there first, then move on to any others. Look for heated/burnt connectors. Also check all wires from the alt for condition, look for burnt wires/fusible links. I believe there is a yellow and white wire with a fusible link, this powers the alt so it charges.......
Last edited by PLC7.3; Dec 1, 2004 at 08:07 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Just had a similar problem with my 86 Monday.
What it turned out to be was a bad connection in the passenger side positive battery cable. The charge from the alternator was not making it to the batteries, battery current was not making it to the starter.
The 2/0 cable from the drivers side battery to the passenger side battery connection was fine. The connection for the passenger side battery to the 3/0 cable down to the starter was real bad inside the connector. This is also where the wire from the alternator puts the charge back in the batteries. Had to cut the connector off with a cutoff wheel on a 4" grinder to find it, but I was getting desperate. Had it leave me stranded three time in two days, I was going to cut every connection apart till I found the bad one, since this terminal affected both batteries I started there and found the problem first time out.
Had a bad time finding a battery terminal big enough to reconnect all three wires, but I made it work. Has been back to normal all day today.
From the outside the terminal did not look bad at all.
Looking at the connection inside the terminal, I am surprised it started or even ran. It was so burnt and corroded that I am amazed the radio even played.
What it turned out to be was a bad connection in the passenger side positive battery cable. The charge from the alternator was not making it to the batteries, battery current was not making it to the starter.
The 2/0 cable from the drivers side battery to the passenger side battery connection was fine. The connection for the passenger side battery to the 3/0 cable down to the starter was real bad inside the connector. This is also where the wire from the alternator puts the charge back in the batteries. Had to cut the connector off with a cutoff wheel on a 4" grinder to find it, but I was getting desperate. Had it leave me stranded three time in two days, I was going to cut every connection apart till I found the bad one, since this terminal affected both batteries I started there and found the problem first time out.
Had a bad time finding a battery terminal big enough to reconnect all three wires, but I made it work. Has been back to normal all day today.
From the outside the terminal did not look bad at all.
Looking at the connection inside the terminal, I am surprised it started or even ran. It was so burnt and corroded that I am amazed the radio even played.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Cowtown, USA
When I replaced my last regulator there was a sheet saying that there should be x amount of ohms between the field wire and battery if there were to many than there was a bad wire or open circuit. I went to grab it to see if it might help but i can't find it. Can any body give me some advice? I tried from the field wire to the positive and got 26 ohms but am not sure which setting to put my multi meter on.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Cowtown, USA
I am thinking about doing some rewiring in my truck. I have noticed a few plugs that don't plug into anything and just end. I wouldn't mind finding out what these things are. If anybody has a good place to find wiring diagrams it would be appreciated.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
Try this one............http://www.oregonstone.com/F350-1.htm
Another thing to do would be disconnect the batteries and put a test light across from the disconnected lead to the battery. The light will be on right if there is a draw from the battery, now start pulling the fuses one by one, when the light goes out then check all items on that circuit. Some times the alternator internals can cause a dead battery too, check it for warmth with batteries hooked up on a cool engine.
Another thing to do would be disconnect the batteries and put a test light across from the disconnected lead to the battery. The light will be on right if there is a draw from the battery, now start pulling the fuses one by one, when the light goes out then check all items on that circuit. Some times the alternator internals can cause a dead battery too, check it for warmth with batteries hooked up on a cool engine.
Last edited by PLC7.3; Dec 3, 2004 at 07:58 PM.
New User
Joined: Dec 2004
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you may have a draw ,did you check for a draw .meaning you may have a small amp draw from something as small as a dome light .
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From: portland oregon
no charge
I had a problem with mine also, I had a 100 amp alternator,but it quit. after looking around on the net, I found a place (Falkner electric) in Portland Or. the guy there sold me all the parts I needed to make mine a 150 amp for $82.00
this was really cool cause at autozone, they wanted $145.00 just for a rebuilt 100 amp. heres a good test to see if your alts working: with truck engine off, mdisconnect the batts, from each other, measure voltage, if its 12 volts or under that ok. Now hook batts back up and start truck, you should see anywhere from 12.75 to 14.25 volts at the batt terminals, as long as it more than 12 volts, your systems charging. rotory.1
this was really cool cause at autozone, they wanted $145.00 just for a rebuilt 100 amp. heres a good test to see if your alts working: with truck engine off, mdisconnect the batts, from each other, measure voltage, if its 12 volts or under that ok. Now hook batts back up and start truck, you should see anywhere from 12.75 to 14.25 volts at the batt terminals, as long as it more than 12 volts, your systems charging. rotory.1
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Supernatural BC
Here's a simple way to check if your alt is charging without a meter. Just hang a screw driver down the back side of the alt. If there is a magnetic field, ie. the screw driver will be pulled towards the center of the alt, you are charging.
Any thing metalic will work, a screw driver is just easyist.
Any thing metalic will work, a screw driver is just easyist.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
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For the first time in my life I put on cheapo battery warmer wraps.
Since doing that, I have not had any starting problems this winter (yet).
As well, The truck starts almost at the touch of a key, instead of cranking for 5 seconds or more.
Now, I am not a believer in them, but in the last few days we have had some colder weather here, and I have not had a single problem starting yet.
In the past, I would be on my 2nd starter and would be considering having the batterys replaced by now.....
Only trouble is, finding all the outlets to plug into...
Since doing that, I have not had any starting problems this winter (yet).
As well, The truck starts almost at the touch of a key, instead of cranking for 5 seconds or more.
Now, I am not a believer in them, but in the last few days we have had some colder weather here, and I have not had a single problem starting yet.
In the past, I would be on my 2nd starter and would be considering having the batterys replaced by now.....
Only trouble is, finding all the outlets to plug into...
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 49
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From: Cowtown, USA
I know my altenator works but it isn't charging. I checked voltage 11.8 at battery and 11.8 at the altenator its like it isn't telling it to charge or turn on. I have already replaced the regulator twice. The second time i bought the expensive kind from napa $35 for a voltage regulator. Atleast i got a warranty. But how do i know if it is working? Can you test a regulator?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
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From: Manitoba
Kirkus05
Check and see if you have the yellow wire to the regulator, it is the 12V power wire that tells the alt to power up. There is a fusible link on it I believe, also check all the plugins as some do get loose and can burn up........
Check and see if you have the yellow wire to the regulator, it is the 12V power wire that tells the alt to power up. There is a fusible link on it I believe, also check all the plugins as some do get loose and can burn up........