I'm restoring a 1970 shortbed stepside and I really want to drop it. It's got the I-beams on it and i'm afraid if i drop it the tires will bow out and look like this: //--\\ and i don't want that. Has anyone ever done this before and do I even need to worry about this problem.

 

There's been many post on this. Seems like aftermarket lowered I beams are the easiest. There are aftermarket and custom conversions that use other IFS systems from cars.

 

i cut coils and had a frame shop rebend and align my beams and spent 140.00 . i couldn't afford the 450.00 drop beams. i am very happy with the result.

 

If you can find a shop to bend the Ibeams, you are doing pretty good, most won't even touch that (for good reason)... You do need to be concenred with having the wheels // .. \\, it's not natural, incorrect and will destroy the front end/tires/driveability. The best route is the aftermarket drop I beams, although a little pricey, you get what you pay for.

Welcome aboard! --Mike

 

I am installing 3 in DJM dream beams this week on my 68. I will let you know how they do. I also have a shop near by that bends beams so hopefully I make out good(fingers crossed).

 

good luck on those "dream beams" I have heard nothing but horror stories about them bending. let us know how they handle and hold up.

 

i have also heard bad things about the djm beams but not about the aim style. good luck.

 

aim sells both, though I don't know why. they even advertise how the "I" beams are better. you also need to buy some tie rod adapters so you keep the same geometry on your steering linkage.

are "dropped" spindles availible for our trucks? that may be an easier swap.

 

ranger i dont know of anybody that sells a drop spindle for our trucks. only brand X. too bad. ive looked high and low with no luck.

 

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I have to put in my .02. I have 3" drop beams and 2" shorter springs. And drive it a lot.

1. On I Beam Trucks - Drop beams don't cause Negative Camber. Shorter Springs do. 2" shorter causes just enough to be noticeable, but not excess tire wear, yeah I may not get 50-60K out of my tires, OK I can live with that.

2. If you actually look at ones for our trucks and not just that misleading AIM ad you will find out you were lied to, by an Advertiser. Gee can that really happen? If you search many old threads ago - you may will find where I actually bought both AIM & DJM beams, and kept, and am using, the DJM ones. They ARE NOT Round, they are 1/4" rectangular steel tubes with solid ends. AIM beams are 1/4" thick I Beam shapes with solid ends. So instead of Two 1/4" vertical members there is only one- in the center.

Problem I had was, each of my AIM beams were 1" longer than stock, and with disc brake conversion I wasn't going to be able to use the 8" rims I already had purchased. And the folks at AIM insisted that this couldn't be that their beams were exactly the same length as stock. Ironically enough the AIM Tie Rod relocater is much better than DJM. Lucky me I had both so got to use the best one.

If I was doing it again I would have put a good IFS under it.

 

Thank all of yall. I've got a long way to go before mine is to that point of dropping it, but i was curious about how to go about it.

 

yeah, IFS is the way to go. I would like to put the front end from a '77 LTD or Torino since they are super low (compared to my truck) have a nice wide track, and they have a much more desireable lug pattern so I can have a better selection of wheels.

 

as for the lug pattern you could look into the 81 through 84 light duty f150 trucks they use the same bearings and races but they have the smaller bolt pattern, the same as the small 5 lug rangers.

 

I have never heard of this....very intriguing....I will investigate further....

 

wrong thread