Electrical problems
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Electrical problems
Hi all, I have an electrical problem and could really use help. I have a 1988 f150 and recently replaced the intake manifold gasket and valve cover gaskets. After getting it back together I have a new problem. The starter will stick even after the engine is running. Should there be power on the starter wire in the run position? It seems to go from 12+v in start position to 11.4v in run position. The contacts have been sticking on the solenoid and I have to hit it to get it to disengage. We have replace the starter, solenoid, and ignition switch. I don't think there should be power on the starter wire in the run position but I have even had the starter continue to run if the ign is off and/or the starter wire is pulled. This may not make much sense but hope someone can help.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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The starter should only have power when the key is in the start position. There should be none in the run position. Pull the small wire that plugs into your solonoid off while the key is in the run position and see if you still have power at the starter wire. If you do, then you have a bad solonoid. If not, There will probably be power at the small wire that you pulled off, there should not be. The only time there should be power to this wire is when the key is in the start position. If there is power there, you have a problem in the starting system, and I bet it's the ignition box under the dash that controls power to thje solonoid. Hope this helps.
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Thanks Duback, Yes there is power on the starter wire in the run position. We are not sure where this power is coming from. We have already replaced the ignition switch and this doesnt seem to fix the problem. The only other thing the power goes through is the Clutch interlock switch. We are really confused.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
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From: New Jersey
The ignition switch actually is on the column, not in it, meaning that when you turn the ignition lock with the key, its pushing a long rod inside the column which operates a slide switch further down the column, just behind the column supports under the dash. More than likely, this is worn or shorted out.
Easy way to test... undo the four column mount bolts, and let the column drop onto the seat, giving you enough room to remove the ignition switch with a torx head. After you get the ignition switch out, slide it towards the firewall, from "off" to "on" to "start", then pull it back to "on". The starter should disengage. If not, then the switch is bad. If it does, then the issue is mechanical within the column, and the easiest way to fix that is to find yourself a junkyard column, or if you really want to, rebuild the column.
Easy way to test... undo the four column mount bolts, and let the column drop onto the seat, giving you enough room to remove the ignition switch with a torx head. After you get the ignition switch out, slide it towards the firewall, from "off" to "on" to "start", then pull it back to "on". The starter should disengage. If not, then the switch is bad. If it does, then the issue is mechanical within the column, and the easiest way to fix that is to find yourself a junkyard column, or if you really want to, rebuild the column.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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When you install the ignition switch, both it and the lock cylender should be in the lock position for it to work properly. Since your going to be working on the ignition switch anyway, you might want to unplug it and recheck to see if you have voltage at the solenoid control wire. If you do, you have a frayed wire or something that is feeding power where it shouldn't.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2003
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Originally Posted by frederic
The ignition switch actually is on the column, not in it, meaning that when you turn the ignition lock with the key, its pushing a long rod inside the column which operates a slide switch further down the column, just behind the column supports under the dash. More than likely, this is worn or shorted out.
Easy way to test... undo the four column mount bolts, and let the column drop onto the seat, giving you enough room to remove the ignition switch with a torx head. After you get the ignition switch out, slide it towards the firewall, from "off" to "on" to "start", then pull it back to "on". The starter should disengage. If not, then the switch is bad. If it does, then the issue is mechanical within the column, and the easiest way to fix that is to find yourself a junkyard column, or if you really want to, rebuild the column.
Easy way to test... undo the four column mount bolts, and let the column drop onto the seat, giving you enough room to remove the ignition switch with a torx head. After you get the ignition switch out, slide it towards the firewall, from "off" to "on" to "start", then pull it back to "on". The starter should disengage. If not, then the switch is bad. If it does, then the issue is mechanical within the column, and the easiest way to fix that is to find yourself a junkyard column, or if you really want to, rebuild the column.
Dale
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Glen Burnie Maryland
Dale;
There's a bulked up GNOME name of BUBBA who sits in your column and his only job is to twist the key back from start to run.
Seriously, there's a spring setup in the assy. that you twist against. When you get the key to run on it's way to start you feel the tension?.......That's Bubba! Sounds like there is some slop in the linkage assy between the lock cyl. and the switch itself.
Larry
There's a bulked up GNOME name of BUBBA who sits in your column and his only job is to twist the key back from start to run.
Seriously, there's a spring setup in the assy. that you twist against. When you get the key to run on it's way to start you feel the tension?.......That's Bubba! Sounds like there is some slop in the linkage assy between the lock cyl. and the switch itself.
Larry
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