heat riser
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: river ridge,La
heat riser
the heat riser spring on my 64 manifold is broken.to open up both sides and not run the exhaust through the intake,should the riser arm point up or down?thanks for your help.........wayne
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
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From: Coal country
Wayne, I am not sure what you mean by the riser arm, but if you look at the circular cast wheel on the outside of the heat riser valve, you should see a weight or heavy boss cast into it.
When cold, the spring rotates the weight up, closing the valve.
When warm, the spring loosens, allowing the weight to drop down, opening the valve.
So, if you want the valve to stay open, use mechanics' wire to hold it in place, with the weight down.
Another option, especially if your valve is locked up or too loose, is to remove the entire assembly, then remove the shaft, butterfly and counterweight. If you do this, be sure to plug the shaft holes with JBWeld or muffler putty before reinstalling the gutted cast iron valve body, to keep exhaust fumes out of the engine compartment.
When cold, the spring rotates the weight up, closing the valve.
When warm, the spring loosens, allowing the weight to drop down, opening the valve.
So, if you want the valve to stay open, use mechanics' wire to hold it in place, with the weight down.
Another option, especially if your valve is locked up or too loose, is to remove the entire assembly, then remove the shaft, butterfly and counterweight. If you do this, be sure to plug the shaft holes with JBWeld or muffler putty before reinstalling the gutted cast iron valve body, to keep exhaust fumes out of the engine compartment.
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From: river ridge,La
banjo,i love the idea of removing the butterfly.i checked into this a while back ,and the muffler shop wanted 65.00 to remove it and braze the holes.i thought that a bit pricey.are you sure that the j b weld will withstand the heat?.........wayne
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Senior User
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From: river ridge,La
well,you know,thats a really good question.i i have a really bad habit of over complicating things . thanks for once again pointing me in the right direction.i have a 100 amp mig with solder core wire. would it weld the damper closed?is it cast iron...................wayne
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,218
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From: Parkville, MO (KC)
your mig will not weld cast, unless something is new with mig welders that I am unaware of. Best approach to cast is to braze. I am thinking JB weld will hold for a while, but it is not going to survive a really hot exhaust. Do you not have a torch?
Anyhow, best thing to do is just wire it in the open position (as in open to letting exhaust flow freely) -- then you don't have to worry about filling the holes.
Anyhow, best thing to do is just wire it in the open position (as in open to letting exhaust flow freely) -- then you don't have to worry about filling the holes.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,836
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From: Elizabethtown, PA
The housing is cast iron, but the shaft is steel. I was able to weld enough 'glob' on the shaft to seal up the leaky shaft bushing and keep the valve in the open position. 
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: river ridge,La
i might try and glob enough on there to stop the leaks.i don `t own a torch hot enough to braze with.thanks............wayne
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