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They do not go into times at the different temps. To be safe I try to keep it below 1300. My pyro is installed in the Y just below the turbo so it sees the combined temp just before the turbo.
You're still better off mounting the probe in the exhaust manifold. Although there is a chance that one side will burn hotter than the other, by the time the exhaust is at the turbo it has cooled down a little bit. Taking the reading directly from one of the exhaust manifolds will give you the most accurate reading short of installing 2 probes (1 in each manifold). Remember, the primary purpose of the pyro is to protect the engine. If the engine gets hot enough to start causing turbo damage then you have already caused damage to your engine anyway. Last time I checked, turbos were a lot cheaper than a brand new engine or a rebuild.
Thanks, done alot of reading.
I live in Mira Mesa. I viewed your gallery. Still haven't decided on which gauges to purchase. Are your gauges from Banks?
I raced my 1926 T bucket at Carlsbad Raceway (as quick as 9.7 sec @ 136mph). Too bad it just closed. My car was on the Antique Drags #23 posters & T-shirts. Now I let my kids do all the racing in their junior dragsters. Maybe in a few years I will be back on the track, probably at Barona. Maybe Banning if it ever happens. I have 3 fellow racers that have 2003 F350 PSD's tow vehicles. I am very happy with my 2004 F350 PSD. Wish I had bought a diesel years ago.
The gauge is an X-Monitor from BD-Power. At the time, Motorhaven didn't carry them so I went direct, but they might have them now.
Easy install and it let me keep my Pillar handle too.
My best time at Carlsbad was on my 1999 R1 - a 10.91 at 135 MPH.
That was my first run and I believe that I could have gotten down to around 10.40s or so but they were on my about the front end coming up a foot or so in first gear. Launching the bike and keeping the front end on the ground is pretty tough without frying the clutch more than I really wanted to do.
Just a quick update- I bought the Superchips tuner and it works great - I think it may be better than my Banks Six-Gun as far as the powerband goes, and I know it is better with respect to EGT. If I could do it over again, I'd buy the tuner and not the fuel box. Just my opinion. I have not dyno'd both yet, but plan on doing it soon. I had my truck in for service and they flashed the PCM, necessitating a return of the SCMT to Superchips. They will update it free of charge, and even pay the shipping back to them up to $25.
This comes stright off the Banks website in the knowledge section. It did not talk about the powerstroke but did talk about the cummins.
So the big question is, what constitutes excessive EGT? If everything is working properly, 1250º to 1300º F. is a safe turbine inlet temperature, even for sustained running, mile after mile. Above 1300º F. things can start to get edgy. Remember, excessive EGT damage is cumulative. Over 1400º F., you’re usually gambling against a stacked deck and it’s only a matter of time until you lose. The higher the EGT, the shorter that time will be.
There are some exceptions to the above EGT limits if the driver is willing to trade off some risk of engine damage for brief spurts of maximum power or performance, such as for a quick burst of acceleration, a drag racing contest, or even a truck pull event. To fulfill that need, Banks has developed the Big Hoss line and the Six-Gun Diesel Tuner line, with the optional Speed-Loader. These racing products allow operation at EGTs above 1300 degrees, but unlike the makers of competitive diesel tuner boxes who place no limits on excessive EGT, Banks still builds in limits with the Speed-Loader, and adjustable EGT stops for the 7.3 L Ford PS Six-Gun system. The Six-Gun and Speed-Loader products are not intended for use on motorhomes or pickups towing trailers. For the owner of a diesel motorhome or a pickup used to pull a trailer, it’s always better to play it safe and adhere to the 1300° limit, and Banks power systems for these vehicles deliver such safe performance.
As we pointed out earlier, high EGTs are the result of too much fuel for the available air. If you see EGTs climbing over 1300º F., the fastest way to reduce the amount of fuel going to the engine is to back off the accelerator pedal. Another possible solution is to downshift if your speed permits it. For example, while the engine might be capable of producing enough power to pull the load in fifth gear at high EGTs, running in fourth gear at lower EGTs is definitely easier on the engine as long as the engine’s RPM red line is not exceeded.
They do not go into times at the different temps. To be safe I try to keep it below 1300. My pyro is installed in the Y just below the turbo so it sees the combined temp just before the turbo.
I just went to Revelstoke, BC Canada snowmobiling this weekend and have the Banks unit installed. The highest EGT's I got to was 1150 with my foot in the pedal for a sustained uphill run from 2000 Feet to 5000 feet pulling a total weight of 18,000 lbs. I do have a stick though so control of the EGT's through downshifting from 0/D could be operator knowledge rather than relying on an automatic. I have to say all of the guys in the truck were really impressed that it did not seem that the truck even knew the trailer was back there. One of them drives a souped up Dodge too and he was thoroughly impressed.
I just went to Revelstoke, BC Canada snowmobiling this weekend and have the Banks unit installed. The highest EGT's I got to was 1150 with my foot in the pedal for a sustained uphill run from 2000 Feet to 5000 feet pulling a total weight of 18,000 lbs
Interesting- I can easily hit 1400 under max acceleration at level 6, every time. According to Banks, everyone will. If you never see over 1150, your turbo will be happy but you are probably not getting the max effect of the Six-Gun and Speedloader. When you say "in the pedal" do you mean on the pedal is to the floor?
Barkweld you said that you are running two pyros, both pre turbo. Do you see much difference in the two under load? Which one runs hotter? Thanks for the info.
Interesting- I can easily hit 1400 under max acceleration at level 6, every time. According to Banks, everyone will. If you never see over 1150, your turbo will be happy but you are probably not getting the max effect of the Six-Gun and Speedloader. When you say "in the pedal" do you mean on the pedal is to the floor?
Since I had my truck dynoed, I do not feel that #6 is necessary. I had it on #3 the entire trip. I truly think #6 is necessary to boast about the minimal increase in HP and Torque. I use my truck for the only reason I bought it, towing. Also, I have noticed people with autos recieve different results than those with more controllable manuals. This could be the difference. No I was not at the floor. I sustained a 70 MPH speed up a very steep incline without exceeding 1150. I was not trying to race anybody up the hill with 18000+lbs of weight but I held my speed without any additional fuel in the pedal.
Last edited by IB Tim; Dec 17, 2004 at 07:03 AM.
Reason: Language...baiting
I have an 04 f-250 and i have a pyro probe mounted post turbo
...Just to be clear, all the temps you see on this post are pre-turbo readings.
A few people have elluded to the fact that a Post-Turbo reading should be lower...but I don't think it was made clear.
For example, if a truck had both pre and post turbo and it was running 1200 pre turbo...the post turbo reading may be 950-1000 (depending on the truck). In other words if you wanted to keep the EGTs to 1200 or below...you would base it off your post turbo reading of 950-1000.
Since I had my truck dynoed, I do not feel that #6 is necessary. I had it on #3 the entire trip. I truly think #6 is necessary to boast about the minimal increase in HP and Torque. I use my truck for the only reason I bought it, towing. Also, I have noticed people with autos recieve different results than those with more controllable manuals. This could be the difference. No I was not at the floor. I sustained a 70 MPH speed up a very steep incline without exceeding 1150. I was not trying to race anybody up the hill with 18000+lbs of weight but I held my speed without any additional fuel in the pedal.
I was just curious. I never tow more than about 10,000 pounds, and that is seldom. Most of the time I only tow a ski boat. This truck is just a toy for me- whether loaded or not. I love driving it, and choose to hot rod it occasionally. What kind of Dyno numbers did you get with the Banks? Level 6 on mine seems to be a lot more than level 3, but I have no numbers.