I have an 04 f-250 and i have a pyro probe mounted post turbo, and i was wondering if anyone knows when is too hot. I've heard of 7.3's hitting 1600 degrees, but i dont know about 6.0's

 

1600? Yikes! More like 1275 sustained, pre-turbo. Even lower post turbo.

 

I am running two pyros pre turbo ,one just off the left bank of the motor in the exhaust manifold and one about three inches before the turbine. This gives me a better look at the temperatures. I will not run over 1200 dg too hat for the turbine. And yes I have pushed it just a little.

 

I have run mine for over an hour and 45 minutes at 1250 and higher, never a porblem.

 

Tim, What is a Porblem?


I have two fingers that will not pay attention to waht single I sned...them...
...see it os happing again...TimL

 

Melted exhaust valves or a melted turbo impeller.

 

Boys, boys, boys

IMO- don't keep it above 1400 for extended periods of time; anything under about 1350-1325 will be fine all day long. You can run 1500 for a short periods, or an EXTREMELY short peak of 1600 or so, but anything more than 2-3 seconds at 1600 will most certainly start causing damage.

From what I have seen, the piston usually starts to go first, then the turbo impeller. After the piston starts melting at the top and building up heat toward the bottom, it will rip the wristpin out of the bottom
Dunno about the valves, never heard of that one Mine seemed ok after being slightly toasted in the oven for 15, then charbroiled

 

I have a Banks box, and after several conversations with Banks' engineers, they say that they feel 1400 is safe (normal operation), greater is not. Banks has run several endurance tests on a few trucks, although I do not have their data. Banks has many years of proven experience with turbos and I trust their judgeemnt. They set the Speedloader at 1400- at that point it cuts back on fuel. You can overshoot if you really wind it up fast- I have and my rig is fine. Never hit 1500 for more than a second or so, did it maybe twice, but have seen 1400 several times. After nearly 2000 miles, no problems. My probes are in the rear of the left exhaust manifold- first the Banks probe, then the indication probe about an inch or two behind. I'll admit I'm looking at a tuner to get a little better performance out of my transmission, sicne the fuel box does not tocuh it. I'd also like to read codes and see what the perf. difference is with a tuner. I just like to play...

 

PSD, what about the turbo shaft bearing? I have always been under the impression that at about 1400 the bearing can go dry due to fried oil and cause failure. In fact that is just about what the field service rep said to me.....

 

This is the case with some of the older bearings; however with the EVRT it is not.

The shaft bearings are solid, free-float bronze bearings with very large oil grooves. I have the turbo apart; I STILL have got to get the pictures I have promised everyone . The turbo that is apart has been through a catastrophic engine failure due to a broken rod and excessive EGT's- there is no damage to the bearings or shaft at all, not really any damage to the turbine either. The EVRT vanes were starting to show an extremely slight amount of charring on the tips...but that was due to atomized aluminum adhering to them as the pistons came apart and passed through the turbine.

The turbo that is in the truck now has seen 1600 a couple times, and has been sustained at 1500 for about a minute and a half (that is the most severe it has seen). It still works fine.

 

Friends- again, the engineers at banks have tested the turbo on the 6.0 extensively and are comfortable running these rigs at 1400 for extended periods, and often. If there were any possibility of meltdown, they would not have set the Speedloader limit that high. As with any engineering limit, you take the maximum it will safely withstand, and decrease it by some amount to provide a safety margin. I do not work for Banks, but they have quite a bit of experience in this area- more than most. I am not saying anything about their products- just relaying what I was told by their engineers. Looks like our buddy PSD is in agreement for the most part. If your turbo never sees 1400, I am positive that it will happier than if it does, but if it does, don’t go trade in your truck because you feel like you’ve tempted fate and are facing a pending disaster… mine runs just fine.

 

I am not questioning you; however is there anything in print FROM Banks that shows the temps and times/duration that they have done this, like loads or anything at all?

 

This comes stright off the Banks website in the knowledge section. It did not talk about the powerstroke but did talk about the cummins.

So the big question is, what constitutes excessive EGT? If everything is working properly, 1250º to 1300º F. is a safe turbine inlet temperature, even for sustained running, mile after mile. Above 1300º F. things can start to get edgy. Remember, excessive EGT damage is cumulative. Over 1400º F., you’re usually gambling against a stacked deck and it’s only a matter of time until you lose. The higher the EGT, the shorter that time will be.

There are some exceptions to the above EGT limits if the driver is willing to trade off some risk of engine damage for brief spurts of maximum power or performance, such as for a quick burst of acceleration, a drag racing contest, or even a truck pull event. To fulfill that need, Banks has developed the Big Hoss line and the Six-Gun Diesel Tuner line, with the optional Speed-Loader. These racing products allow operation at EGTs above 1300 degrees, but unlike the makers of competitive diesel tuner boxes who place no limits on excessive EGT, Banks still builds in limits with the Speed-Loader, and adjustable EGT stops for the 7.3 L Ford PS Six-Gun system. The Six-Gun and Speed-Loader products are not intended for use on motorhomes or pickups towing trailers. For the owner of a diesel motorhome or a pickup used to pull a trailer, it’s always better to play it safe and adhere to the 1300° limit, and Banks power systems for these vehicles deliver such safe performance.

As we pointed out earlier, high EGTs are the result of too much fuel for the available air. If you see EGTs climbing over 1300º F., the fastest way to reduce the amount of fuel going to the engine is to back off the accelerator pedal. Another possible solution is to downshift if your speed permits it. For example, while the engine might be capable of producing enough power to pull the load in fifth gear at high EGTs, running in fourth gear at lower EGTs is definitely easier on the engine as long as the engine’s RPM red line is not exceeded.

They do not go into times at the different temps. To be safe I try to keep it below 1300. My pyro is installed in the Y just below the turbo so it sees the combined temp just before the turbo.

 

My EGT is in the left exhaust manifold, at the rear, at probably the hottest point it could be. It is directly next to the rear exhaust port, so gets the full effect of the "fire" exiting the port. This is where Banks recommends the Speedoader (EGT limiter) probe be installed. Perhaps the actual turbine inlet temperature is lower- I'm sure it will be by at least a few degrees, but have no idea how much. I don't particularly like to see 1400, and usually see no more than 1100. I am a field service engineer for GE Aircraft Engines, and have been working with aircraft turbines for 18 years. Time at temperature is the enemy of all hot section parts. Keep it cool when and if you can, but you will probably see damage to the engine before the turbo lets loose (according to PSD 6.0 Fx4's experience).

 

I have been using EGT sensors with data recorders on our race cars for over 7 years with both Methanol and Racing Gas. I agree the EGT should be kept below 1300. My best performance appears to be when the EGT is about 1150 to 1250. We see 100 degree difference between open and closed tip EGT sensors. For 1/8 mile runs, I get concerned when I see 1300+, with an open tip sensor 2 inches from the exhaust port. What this all tells me is how rich the air-fuel mixture is. A 1300+ temp indicates you are lean, making power, but can cause piston, exhaust valve or turbo damage. I have burned the tip on spark plugs in a single 1/4 mile when the temp hit 1500, of course diesels have no spark plugs. Racers with NOS can burn up pistons and plugs much quicker, when the extra gas is not added correctly.
I don't think diesel EGT is much different than gasoline or alcohol from what I have read. With this assumption, the further away from the exhaust valve the EGT sensor is, the lower the EGT temp should be. I see no benefit to post turbo EGT, unless you are curious or a turbo developer.
I haven't added any guages to my 04 F350 yet, but I will do this before I chip my truck.