I found this article on another FTE board, it may have been posted here b4 but for anyone new it is an excellent read. I am running walmart Super Tech synthetic in all my vehicles besides the diesel. Much cheaper, and their filters are very good. Used to use Fram but had 2 air filters come apart in the housing, not good!

 

Are you going to give us the link, or leave us in suspense?

 

Lol O_O

*Pops popcorn* Suspense movie? Huh?

 

Ok, lights are set, got a coke, ready for the link!!! BTW I did a very close analysis of a Supertec oil filter and an AC (sorry for the profanity) filter and they are one and the same other than the paint job.

 

popcorn cold and the pepsi warm, might have been as good read.

 

man i feel like an idiot, I thought the link posted here it is anyway has been posted here b4

 

try again, computer won't paste http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

 

Tinytrixie, that was a great link! Especially the paragraph beginning "thicker is not better" hit the nail right on the head, although I've known this for at least the past 15+ years. those of you running anything over 10w30 (from 10w40 -up) in a modern to classic 60s -70s V8 are making your engines work way to much harder than they need to be. today's oils are excellent, nothing over 10w30. I also liked the coolant paragraph as well, saying the common 50-50 mix makes your cooling system work to hard. That setup is too thick, really. I feel and have always liked a 25%-30% max for coolant, 70% distilled or soft water, and either Water Wetter from Redline, or Purple Ice from Royal Purple, both products I think are equal, and have used both from time to time. Another excellent product is called NoRosion, for your cooling system. Thanks for the excellent read TTrixie!
10w40 20w50, 5w50, 40WT HD

 

The author is "Director of Operations & Training for a 55-unit chain of quick-lubes and full-service automotive repair centers." Is it possible he could be slightly biased in that it is costly to stock a lot of different oil grades at all these lube and repair centers? Many of us don't trust these places to change our oil, so do we want to take their advice?

 

20-30% mix antifreeze is fine in Florida, Texas and Arizona but here where it can be -40 or lower you need 70% antifreeze.

 

Hrm. I've got slightly better UOA results with my Exploder running 15w40 than 10w30. Only by a few PPM in iron though. I did notice that the engine uses slightly less oil with 15w40, and seemed to run quieter too. Mileage didn't change enough for me to notice. This was in an ~200,000 mile Exploder.

Thicker may not always be better, but sometimes it is.

 

Whoa on that.

Anti-freeze does 2 things:

1. Lowers freezing point; and
2. Raises boiling point.

When it's 110*F, I don't think that you want to be in stop and go traffic with only distilled water in the radiator.

Antifreeze also has anti-corrosion and waterpump lubricant additives. You can add in a can of additive, but what does that do to the weight of the fluid.

OEMs have been recommending 50-50 mix for decades. My guess is that they have lots of research behind them to back up this recommendation.

I am not going to run 70%-80% water to save 0.00002 mpgs.

Also, is the weight of the fluid what makes it hard to pump or the viscosity? Maybe a little of both.

 

Sorry, but this sounds a little too much like a Prolong infomercial.

I've got no reason to doubt this statement, but c'mon, how great is the parasitic loss by the oil pump? Even if a thicker oil doubles it, how much can it be? A fraction of 1%?

I do agree that a 20w-50 is too thick for any normal application.

I also think that syn is slipperier than dino, but the friction modifiers in modern dino oils are narrowing the gap considerably.

 

You should re-read my message.

 

OK.

Whoa on that.

Anti-freeze does 2 things:

1. Lowers freezing point; and
2. Raises boiling point.

When it's 110*F, I don't think that you want to be in stop and go traffic with only 20%-30% anti-freeze in the radiator.