Well whatever, I wasn't the one advocating 20-30% antifreeze but you saw that I quoted Ed who was advocating it and you also saw that I use 70% because you read my message, yeah.

 

You said:

You then said:

Sorry, but this sounds like you are advocating a 20%-30% mix in warm climates. I was simply pointing out that antifreeze has benefits in temperatures above freezing as well.

 

You are absolutely correct and I agree 100%.

 

The primary function of antifreeze is to prevent freezing, under the hood of my 2000 F150 there is a little sticker that say not to go below 30% antifreeze. I believe Ford researched that somewhat. I currently run a 40% antifreeze mix myself in my ford and 87 Subaru. Antifreeze has to have a higher boiling point because it will run higher temps from using it as compared to water. In the experimental airplane world running little EA81 Subaru engines cooling is a major concern due to limited airflow across tha radiator, many of these people run as low as a 20% mix and they are flying but change it annually to replenish additives. Don't give antifreeze to much credit on the cooling end.

 

I have used the 25% - 30% coolant with 65%-70% distilled water (although I have read that using clear soft water is even better than distilled. I use distilled because it's readily available, and cheap) here in the sacramento valley, CALIF. we regularly have temps at 100 degrees to 110, sunshine from mid May to late October. I don't care if it's a "dry heat" LOL, but my point being, I never have any overheating problems, even in an old van ("87 Aerostar v6 3.0) freeway driving + stop and go traffic with the AC on, and dripping a 1/2 gallon off of the condensor! (well not that much, but you know how a lot of water drips as condensation, in hot weather) Pure water will cool better, than pure antifreeze. Too much antifreeze, will actually cause an engine to run hotter, especially at 70% coolant 30% water. Now I will say those of you in freezing climates, should use a 50-50 mix. However, during the spring, summer and fall, I stand by my 25%-30% coolant (I have been using Zerex G-05 coolant in my van) ratio for "Optimum" performance standards for the cooling system. Also, I flush my cooling system once a year, every year. I never have any water pump, overheating, or clogged radiator problems. When I have changed hoses, every 5 years or so, they look normal. No rust deposits etc. Water, per se, is a very important part of the cooling system, all I am saying, is a lower ratio of antifreeze makes the cooling system, together, work more efficient. Even Nascar race engines run at 190-200 mph (on certain racetracks) with only pure water. Sure, they run oil coolers, etc. but a NASCAR Ford, Chevy or Dodge engine is under much more stress and heat as compared to any street engine. Flushing, is the key here too. I know some say, 5 years or 100,000 miles, but that is way too long for me. Ed

 

I agree with the less than 50% antifreeze crowd. Why have -30 F protection in the summer, or winter in my area (usu no lower than -5)?

I use the tap water. Here it comes from the Great Lakes and is plenty soft.

 

A 70% mix will test to about -45 and it gets colder than that here on occasion. I wouldn't take a chance on 50/50 mix.

They don't allow antifreeze in race cars; drag, nascar, F1. Those engines aren't expected to last 10+ years and moving parts get replaced pretty much every race so longevity isn't an issue.

The manufacturer of my truck says the antifreeze is some new blend and is good for 5 years/100000km, and it shouldn't be mixed with regular antifreeze or it will diminish the length of time that it will last. I always went the recommended 2 years with the regular stuff.

 

coolant in an engine is there to transport heat only. the best transfer is in pure water. you use "soft" water only because it is demineralized and won't react with metals in your engine or rad. coolant has to have additives in it to prevent freezing in your climate ie you mix for what you drive in. also coolant has additatives in it to prevent cavitation and corrosion. the low freezing point of a heavy mix is false security. pure coolant with both burn and freeze. running any more than 70% is putting your engine at risk. the new coolants that are good for x+++ miles are only different from normal coolants because the additative in them is different chemically. if you mix the coolants together the additatives will "fight" and make a kind of mud and tear up your engine. to test your coolant you need to do two things 1)test for temp protection 2) test for sca (special coolant additatives) with test strips. it is a good idea to change your coolant if you want but you can buy additative packages to bring your coolant up to spec. as water is what evaps from the system leaving a stronger coolant you should only add water when topping up. never mix different brands or colors of coolant. some oem coolants even have additaves to fight electrolosys between alum heads and cast blocks so it is very important to check that you are buying the right stuff.

 

I hope you guys didn't fall for this guys psycho-babble. I am going to be real disappointed if you did. Two types of lubrication? I guess the rest of the worlds leading lube engineers have no clue. Only PAO basestocks are synthetic? Well, I guess that leaves Redline out and others as well. And his comments on VII is left field at best. I think he has been under the hood too long breathing exhaust.

 

I especially like the part about the 7 mpg gain between 10w30 and 20w50.

So that must mean if I quit using my M1 5w30 in my F-150, I'll get +7 mpg by using a straight 10W oil???

Oky-doky.

 

Big doubel post...whoops.

 

Yeah, your truck will get GREAT mileage riding on the back of that flatbed.

 

Some newer coolants are compatible with any color/brand coolant.

 

Its a good site, but I found it intersting how they stated that engines from the 50's and 60's lasted only 50,000 or 70,000 miles. I would like to see them back up that statement. I know many old Ford FE V8s that were run to 300,000 miles with no rebuild. I know one dude with a 300 6 that went to over 400,000. I find newer cars to be actually worse quailty then older ones.

 

Water is able to absorb more BTUs of heat per gallon than any other liquid coolant used in automobiles and trucks. For comparison, a 60% concentration of ethylene-glycol-based antifreeze will absorb about 85% as much heat as water. A 30% concentration of antifreeze will absorb about 95% as much heat as water.