hey everyone, I have a 1987 Bronco ll, I currently have 34 swampers with cut fenders and a three inch body lift, then I tore my body off and made it out of tubing like a mud buggy or some sort. I want bigger tires and a bigger engine, I am fully aware of the fact I need stronger axles, what I am not aware of is any information relating to axles, I don't even know what axles are stock in the bronco ll that I run, and I'm wondering about possible swaps and difficulty. Any information would be helpful in my dcisions, thank you.

 

For front axles you could step up to a solid D30 out of an early Bronco. A lot of guy run them and they are close to the right width. A D44 out of a vintage Bronco will cost you a pretty penny. Front and rear would be the say to go. Or just buy an EB to beguine with!!!!!

 

Well you have two choices that are fairly easy

One: Early Bronco solid axle swap Dana 44 front axle and Ford 9" in the rear this swap will require some fabrication although it is mostly bolt in it isnt completely.

Two: First Generation Explorer axle swap Dana 35 front axle and 8.8" in the rear this two is not completely bolt in but only requires moving the spring pearches on the rear axle the front will be a complete bolt in. You might need to cut about an inch out of the front drive shaft (sometimes you dont need to) this is the easiest of the two swaps

 

if you want invincibility,swap in a one ton axle and twin traction beam front.talk to the one called BigFry on this site- he's got a machine for you

 

what years are that first generation explorer, I would really like to have the easiest swap possible with still having enough strength in my axle, so I am wondering, thanks

 

1st gen Explorer = '91-'94

 

Thanks shorty, does anyone know how much the D35 can handle? I like to give my axles a full workout and it will be even harder on it with my bigger tires. Also how about the 8.8.

 

I know a couple of guys that run the D28 with a 5.0 and they only break stuff when they really hammer their rigs. D35/31-spline 8.8 out of the 92 up 'sploder is the entry level setup with the 5.0/5.8 conversions, and it's a pretty straight-forward suspension conversion. It's generally held that a D44 conversion offers no appreciable advantage over the D35.

You can break anything under the right circumstances. Most of the D35/8.8 breakage I've seen has been a result of dudes thinking they are a lot stronger than they really are. Doing rocks is the hardest on equipment. My suggestion is to go with what you got until it fails and then step up. The general rule for reliability is "slow as you can, as fast and hard as you have to." Good luck!

 

thanks for those links n9er, they are pretty cool. I don't see any reason why a D28 would break with a 5.0, what size tires are these people running. That would be the issue I am most concerned about, because my 34's are way too small.

 

Well, Jim Oak's Ranger TRS-1 has run a 5.0 w/D28 and I think 33s for years without any sort of chronic driveline problem. I would say most of the V-8s are running 33s or 35s. Thing to do is go to the "Readers' Rides" page and check the posted specs; and/or check signatures in the "Show Off" forum. That's on trs.com of course. On RRORC it'll be more or less hit or miss.

I'm running 35 Ground Hawgs with a 4" suspension and 3" body lift (plus some major wheelhouse whacking on my '84 B2 with 2.8, 5-speed, D28 with stock manual hubs and 7.5 with tight clutch packs in the LSDs....3.73s. Last three day wheeling trip at Attica Badlands I beat out the bearings in both stub joints (didn't grenade them) and lost the driver's side spindle bearing. I don't have any serious problems with this combo, but I'm an old man who takes it pretty easy. However, there's some stuff at Attica that will reach out and bite me anyhow.

As much as people beat up the D28 and swear you have to run super low rears with anything over 33s on them, I rarely see the D28s bust and always see torn up D35s, D44s, D60s, etc. I repeat my position this is because all of us who run the lighter drivetrains are a lot more careful with them; whereas the dudes who run the heavy metal throw all caution to the wind and really hammer their equipment.

 

i run 35x12.50x15 BFG MT/s on my 86 BII with 4:10 gears and a 3 inch body lift and 4 inch suspension with some fender trimming in the rear for tire clearence on flexing when wheeling. I've run it for a year now with no major problems. The stock motor/trans produces just enough HP with the gearing to move the vehicle. The more speed/torque on the stock parts then yes..things start popping and snapping.