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78 F150 with 302, C-4, standard cab with 8' bed. Truck has done this since I bought it in 1995. When it is cold and damp outside the engine misses and dies. There's a point when it's warmed-up enough and it stops but it does it every time it rains and it's getting frustrating...
Any and all help and suggestions would be very, very welcome...
There is a real possibility you are having carb icing problems. Are you using the factory air cleaner housing? Does the warm air intake in the snorkle work properly? These are the areas I'd check first.
Maybe I should have the factory air cleaner to use from Oct to Apr. Yes, I am using an open element air cleaner w/o heated air intake. And yes, it's an Edelbrock carb as well. I have read posts about this before...Didn't think it was happening to me.
Get an old spray bottle with a MILD mixture of alcohol and water and spray electrical stuff under the hood with the engine running. Like the distributor cap, the plug wire, all the electrical connections, even the ignition box. See if it misses more when a particular component gets wet. Just a thought.
I had this problem years ago, found moisture inside the dist cap + mine has points. I dried it with a rag to get me home, then hosed down inside the cap with WD-40 and fixed the problem. After I replaced the cap/rotor/points the problem never came back in 6 years.
I had the same problem with 2 different 351ms. After market(chrome) air cleaners where nothing but a big problem as soon as it got cold and wet.the people that have theses trucks now put stock air cleaner on with the aluminum pipe NO problems
It can also be a secondary ignition component that has had antifreeze on it. If antifreeze gets on ignition parts they will arc over and form a carbon track. Replacement is the only option after the carbon track forms.
Get rid of that open air cleaner. They are only good on trailer queens. In the spring, summer, and fall, they draw in hot air from under the hood. In winter they cause carb icing... -Bad new all year round! You may have to get a Mopar or GM air box to fit the Edelbrock carb. The Ford airbox won't fit without a spacer ring.
First I want to thank everyone for sharing their knowledge and experiences. All will be considered when I have time to look @ the truck. Sometimes Detroit has a vaild reason for the emissions junk that they put on these vehicles in the 70's. So, the heated air intake is crucial and that makes sense to me. Just wish I still had the stock air cleaner.
Second the advice about spraying components with water to see if you could replicate the condition is also an excellent idea. Even though the ignition system checks out OK when dry, when wet may be a different story. If the carb is icing, (which may be the crux of the biscuit) spraying with H2O may not replicate condition.
I will try all of this stuff out after puking C-4 is replaced in the next week or so.
Carb iceing hmm guess that's possible. Guess you could add a "carb heat" system to your air cleaner like the aircraft guys do. I figure the stock air cleaner with it's "heated air" circuit has the same affect. I am using a Clifford water heated 4barrel intake manifold on my 300 six; I live in Alaska where the temps are low and the humidity high most of the time and I have never had iceing problems even with an after market "open" air cleaner.
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